New construction direction, please.

Neat floor plan. Very similar to the main floor on our 1.5 story. I think the corner install would work just fine with the open floor plan you have. You may have to run a small fan to move air out of the bedroom to get some heat in there. With it being new construction and most likely well insulated I would not throw out the cat option. It allows you to cruise at much lower temps therefore not heating you out of your house.

I agree, nice floor plan, should not be too difficult to heat maybe with the exception of the walk-in-closet. I assume the insulation will be very good as it is a new construction? I would then really recommend a cat stove since a non-cat will need to be run hotter to burn cleanly and may heat you out of the house in the shoulder season. They are really not more difficult to operate than non-cat stoves. In fact, after working with non-cat insert for several years they may even be easier. Get the fire going, close the bypass and engage the cat. Done. With a non-cat you will fiddle with the air control for 20 minutes or more and the heat output is much harder to regulate. Yes, there are drawbacks: The cat needs replacement every 5 to 10 years and a good cleaning with a brush a few times per winter. You absolutely cannot burn treated or painted wood although you should not do that in a non-cat stove either. And the fire make look even less impressive than in a non-cat stove. However, for that you will get super long burn times and a more easy to regulate stove. If I would do it again I would seriously consider a cat stove now.

Since you like soapstone take a look at the Woodstock Fireview: http://www.woodstove.com/fireview Top notch stove from a top notch company.
For a non-cat the Hearthstone Homestead: http://www.hearthstonestoves.com/store/wood-products/wood-stoves/homestead-hearthmount

Other stoves to consider: The Pacific Energy Super gets some of the longest burn times for a non-cat stove; many happy owners here me included. The T5 Alderlea is essentially the same stove in a cast-iron jacket.
For another cat stove the Blazeking Sirocco 20 or Chinook 20 would be a good option.

I am sure you will get other suggestions. However, for non-cat stoves look at a firebox size of 2 to 2.2 cu ft. Smaller stoves will probably still heat your home but you will get burn times of 5 to 6 hours max which will mean you will wake up to a freezing house or need to tend the stove at night.

In addition, make sure you have seasoned wood with a moisture content of less than 20% available. That usually requires a minimum of 1 year cut, split and stacked in the open with lots of wind and sun. Slow drying species like oak will need two to three years. Don't rely on just buying seasoned wood. It is rare that a firewood seller has the space and time to properly dry the wood although many advertise it as "seasoned".

I agree with Begreen, if you go with a PE, step up to the T5 or other simar sized stove. You'll appreciate the larger firebox.
A ceiling fan in the great room will help move air a lot. Your house will be toasty!

Now, we haven't ever owned a cat stove, but I don't see anything in the operation of them that seems that difficult. quite honestly from reading descriptions of running them, they seem possibly easier than a tube stove. AND there's the benefit of being able to run them differently in shoulder season rather than the learning curve with how not to cook yourself out of the house with a tube stove, lol. Tube stoves have their own learning curves.

If you like the looks of the VC stoves check out the Jotul line.

FancyFire said:

This will be a super insulated build, will outside air intake be necessary?

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If possible, IMO, ALWAYS do an outside air kit. Think about it- without one, the stove will find a place to pull cold outside air into your house to make up the air that it's using for combustion. You now have a draft and are simultaneously cooling off your house in the effort to heat it. Outside air direct into the stove? Combustion air now comes in through a pipe to the stove and then up the chimney. Your warm house air is not affected by any make-up air from the outside.

If the place is super tight, you might very well experience draft problems due to a lack of available make up air for the stove. Super insulated doesn't necessarily mean super tight, but these days it usually does depending on the style of insulation used.

N

FancyFire said:

I can't believe complete strangers take the time to be so helpful. Many thanks! I will seriously research all the stove options recommended. Two questions weren't addressed. Will the floor need to be beefed up since the stove is on the 2nd floor? This will be a super insulated build, will outside air intake be necessary? Any chimney recommendations other than standard practice? It's very windy in Omaha.

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Your floor support should be sufficient. What do the plans call out for floor joists?
It sounds like you'll have a tight house, I would definitely have an outside air source. It's code where I live for any house built after 1985.

eclecticcottage said:

Now, we haven't ever owned a cat stove, but I don't see anything in the operation of them that seems that difficult. quite honestly from reading descriptions of running them, they seem possibly easier than a tube stove. AND there's the benefit of being able to run them differently in shoulder season rather than the learning curve with how not to cook yourself out of the house with a tube stove, lol. Tube stoves have their own learning curves.

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Having both, they're both pretty simple to operate. For me, anyway. I'm gone overnight for twice a week, and my very NON-technical wife does a fine job with the Blaze King. It is pretty darn simple, and I have no worries about it getting away from her. From a raging box full of fire to lights-out with a twist of the dial. Not possible with the PE.

Personally, for a small, tight house, I'd seriously consider a small cat stove.