newbie installing pellet stove pipes!help!

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
G

gavin

New Member
Nov 16, 2013
14
sault ontario
I picked up a englander pellet stove rated for 1,500sqft. I bought the 3" dura-vent pipe kit and ordered the 45degree pipe because im installing my stove in the corner. I'm doing a dry fit of the pipes and measuring everything to insure that all of my tolerances are correct before cutting holes in my wall. now they provided me with the small 3" piece of pipe, 3 12" straight pipes,1 stainless 12", a 90, the final end piece and a 3" support bracket for the wall.
Now what i dont understand is that when connecting the stove pipe to the unit that the inner pipe goes over the units pipe, shouldn't they fit inside so that the gasket goes against the units pipe to provide a proper seal? is there a reducer piece or pipe that i can order? or is this the proper way to install it?
my next question is why they gave me only 1 piece of stainless pipe? is this piece of pipe suppose to be at a certain point in the pipes run? kinda funny that they dont match.
For the support bracket that goes on the outside wall. I'm looking at some diagrams and some are saying that i need a 6" clearance and the bracket is 3" and in the install video that came with the stove says min. 3" clearance. should just had a block of wood to my exterior then mount the bracket to that to get my 6" min clearance? kinda strange if its a 6" clearance and they give you a 3" bracket....
 
Welcome to the forum!
Let's bump this up toward the top and see if you can get some responses.......
 
Now what i dont understand is that when connecting the stove pipe to the unit that the inner pipe goes over the units pipe, shouldn't they fit inside so that the gasket goes against the units pipe to provide a proper seal? is there a reducer piece or pipe that i can order?
-you need an appliance adapter

my next question is why they gave me only 1 piece of stainless pipe? is this piece of pipe suppose to be at a certain point in the pipes run?
-Sounds like that's the appliance adapter

For the support bracket that goes on the outside wall. I'm looking at some diagrams and some are saying that i need a 6" clearance and the bracket is 3" and in the install video that came with the stove says min. 3" clearance. should just had a block of wood to my exterior then mount the bracket to that to get my 6" min clearance? kinda strange if its a 6" clearance and they give you a 3" bracket
-duravent pro is 1" min, should say right on the pipe. Don't know why they say 6" but 3" is fine
 
now they provided me with the small 3" piece of pipe,
could this be your stove adapter pipe? if it is short in length it could be the adapter and that goes on your stove first
 
Where did you get that kit if it was from Lowes the small piece is the appliance adapter the twelve inch pipe is to get you through the thimble outside to a clean out tee then up three feet a ninety and the horizontal cap. However with an Englander stove outside air is required and don't forget to check your clearances to windows etc.
 
good to know that the dura-vent is a pile! i called englander stoves to because i needed the 45degree pipe and i also just ordered the full kit to make sure they all connect properly. they told me their standard pipe kit is not certified in canada and i'd need the dura-vent one that is certified and its also rated to burn corn to. i just dont see a point to the adaptor, the 12" pipe fits on to the stove the exact same.
 
Be careful with duravent. If you bought a kit from a big box store, it will not interchange with the "pro" series of pipe. Maybe check www.ventpiping.com
 
gavin said:
good to know that the dura-vent is a pile! i called englander stoves to because i needed the 45degree pipe and i also just ordered the full kit to make sure they all connect properly. they told me their standard pipe kit is not certified in canada and i'd need the dura-vent one that is certified and its also rated to burn corn to. i just dont see a point to the adaptor, the 12" pipe fits on to the stove the exact same.
Click to expand...
The "regular" dura-vent uses "rope seal" gasket and is very susceptible to leaking. Many here have had to tape the joints on their venting to combat that. It is well worth the extra money to get a pipe that has a secondary seal such as an O-ring. Zero problems.

I have Excel Pellet pipe on both of my stoves.
http://www.icc-rsf.com/en/excelpellet
 
i ordered the pipe directly from englander stoves, i didnt want to deal with idiots not knowing a thing or selling me crap. i plan to caulk the pipes and use foil tape even before i knew the pipes are junk, i guess i'll go overkill on it cause im not shipping them back winter is here
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rastallama
gavin said:
i ordered the pipe directly from englander stoves, i didnt want to deal with idiots not knowing a thing or selling me crap. i plan to caulk the pipes and use foil tape even before i knew the pipes are junk, i guess i'll go overkill on it cause im not shipping them back winter is here
Click to expand...
gavin said:
i ordered the pipe directly from englander stoves, i didnt want to deal with idiots not knowing a thing or selling me crap. i plan to caulk the pipes and use foil tape even before i knew the pipes are junk, i guess i'll go overkill on it cause im not shipping them back winter is here
Click to expand...
@gavin Good luck with your install... Im using Selkirk DT pipe on my Harman install right now... my first install... putting sealant everywhere i can before calling it done to avoid having any issues. Selkirk DT pipe suggests you don't need to seal all the joints since they have "magic" gaskets, but its easy enough to do and many people on these forums seem to suggest the same.
 
I use Duravent PelletVent Pro with absolutley no problems.

I had 3" on my EF-2 and for 2 years now I have had 4" on my M-55

I never "calked" the joints or used foil tape.

I have no leaks.

I know others say they have issues with the Simpson products but I don't.

Good Luck,
---Nailer---
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rastallama
nailed_nailer said:
I use Duravent PelletVent Pro with absolutley no problems.

I had 3" on my EF-2 and for 2 years now I have had 4" on my M-55

I never "calked" the joints or used foil tape.

I have no leaks.

I know others say they have issues with the Simpson products but I don't.

Good Luck,
---Nailer---
Click to expand...
That's because you used the "pro" line from DV. It utilizes the rubber seal not the rope seal.
 
ya mines the rope sealed pipe kit. how can englander be dumb and recommend me using junk? kinda annoyed and well its getting installed anyways and is getting caulked and foil taped.
i cut the square hole for the square thimble, i ran pipe thru the wall and it started to down pour. We are suppose to get 60mm of rain today. awesome day to be working outside. i know im suppose to have nothing in the space of the wall thimble but should i frame in the hole so no insulatin can be seen in the space or does it really matter?
 
gavin said:
ya mines the rope sealed pipe kit. how can englander be dumb and recommend me using junk? kinda annoyed and well its getting installed anyways and is getting caulked and foil taped.
i cut the square hole for the square thimble, i ran pipe thru the wall and it started to down pour. We are suppose to get 60mm of rain today. awesome day to be working outside. i know im suppose to have nothing in the space of the wall thimble but should i frame in the hole so no insulatin can be seen in the space or does it really matter?
Click to expand...
You definitely want to have whatever the recommended clearance is from combustibles.
 
gavin said:
so frame it in?
Click to expand...
@gavin Im not a pro, but most thimbles are designed so that when you pop it in the wall, it maintains the necessary clearances from combustibles... framing it in will make it more secure and prevent anything from getting too close to the thimble in the wall... keep your insulation out of the "hole" or "box" you made and that should keep you clear from combustibles. So no, you dont have to frame it in.
 
thanks rastallama! i had called an inspector and he told me nothing in the square and thats what insurance companies like to see also. my wall is also 9" thicks to the outside of the siding so i have to put 2x2 around the outside thimble and cap it
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rastallama
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

B
extra wall thimble for roof support bracket
Replies
0
Views
421
The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves
boroak
B
N
Pelletvent Pro venting within joist cavity
Replies
14
Views
631
The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves
Jeremy6500
J
D
Wood Stove to Pellet Stove
Replies
0
Views
559
The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves
DB79
D
C
Different brands exhaust pipe for Pellet Stove
Replies
24
Views
2K
The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves
CraneOp
C
B
Worried about my Old pellet stove
Replies
3
Views
476
The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves
bogieb
bogieb
Top Bottom
Back