044 over heats

Maybe it is running too lean. I would take it to a dealer if you are not comfortable adjusting the carb. Clogged spark screen is a possibility too.

Have you checked out if the cylinder fins,flywheel fins are clean?

Also, my 044 needs a minimum of 89 octane to be happy when doing heavy ,or prolonged cutting .
You didn't say what type of fuel you are running , so I just threw this out there as a possible contributing factor .
Hope you get it figured out ,044s are great saws !
John

Sounds like running lean to me too

There is 1 other possibility that is worth mentioning.

On the inside of the air cleaner housing, at least on my 046, there is a sliding piece of plastic. At either end of the channel it runs through is a symbol. One side is the sun, the other side is a snowflake. When it is in the snowflake position air is being pulled across the engine thereby warming it before it enters the carb. In the sunshine position it pulls in plain outside air. I know it makes a difference in the winter having warmer air to burn. I never noticed if it heats too much in the summer when using the winter position.

I think you would have to be in a pretty hot place for that plastic divider thing to make a difference.

clemsonfor said:

I think you would have to be in a pretty hot place for that plastic divider thing to make a difference.

Click to expand...

You are likely correct, considering it is November. Right from the Stihl 044 manual:



1. Make sure you're running 89 octaine or higher, and confirm you're using the right mix.
2. Get carb tuned, with your proper mix in the tank.
3. Make sure air fins are clear of debris.

I think I have had mine in the winter slot, well my 390, and been cutting firewood in the summer her in 90f heat. I never mover it from winter now.

mtarbert said:

I recently purchased a Stihl 044 that starts just fine but, after it runs under a load for fifteen minutes the saw gets really hot. Before purchasing I removed the muffler and inspected the piston and cylinder and found no scratches or galling . Any suggestions ? Thanks

Click to expand...

Since its new to you, there might be an underlying problem or an air leak. Fatten it up and see if it helps as others have mentioned. Also pull the recoil and top cover and blow it out with some compressed air if there is any gunk.

Clyde S. Dale said:

Maybe it is running too lean. I would take it to a dealer if you are not comfortable adjusting the carb. Clogged spark screen is a possibility too.

Click to expand...

If I were a betting man I'd bet the saw is running lean. If the spark arrestor is clogged that would actually cause the saw to run rich.

Make sure the saw is clean of saw dust and clean air filter. 440 can get packed up pretty quick.

smokinj said:

Make sure the saw is clean of saw dust and clean air filter. 440 can get packed up pretty quick.

Click to expand...

Welcome back, j! I've missed you 'round here.

You know what's interesting is I just got a hand me down Husqvarna (*I think 55*) that was doing something similar... it would get really hot and even smokea little bit. I thought maybe it was the chain oil so I changed that out but to no avail. Cutting in cooler temperatures only made it take slightly longer to overheat. I'm going to check out the running lean thing and see if adjustment changes that.

dmmoss51 said:

I thought maybe it was the chain oil so I changed that out but to no avail.

Click to expand...

Are you running proper 2-stroke mix in the gas? Chain oil gets used quickly, almost 1 tank of chain oil per tank of gas. Always top off both gas mix and bar oil at the same time.

Running too lean, the wrong chain gauge for a bar, bad tension, a gunked up bar nose sprocket... lots of ways to make a saw smoke. First step: RTFM.

My fuel mixture is per the manual, I use a 1 gallon can to measure the gas and mix it in. I buy my two cycle oil in the container that has the measuring device built in so yu can squeeze it up and get the right amount.

I'll check out those other things you mentioned too. I've got a new chain to put on so when I do that I can make sure its the right chain for the bar, set the tension properly and inspect/clean out the nose sproket, let's see if any/all of that works!

dmmoss51 said:

My fuel mixture is per the manual, I use a 1 gallon can to measure the gas and mix it in. I buy my two cycle oil in the container that has the measuring device built in so yu can squeeze it up and get the right amount.

Click to expand...

What 2 cycle oil are you using ?

I'll look when I get home... it's a name brand I picked up from Walmart, I just can't remember which one. Note, it is NOT the marine kind.

dmmoss51 said:

My fuel mixture is per the manual, I use a 1 gallon can to measure the gas and mix it in. I buy my two cycle oil in the container that has the measuring device built in so yu can squeeze it up and get the right amount.

I'll check out those other things you mentioned too. I've got a new chain to put on so when I do that I can make sure its the right chain for the bar, set the tension properly and inspect/clean out the nose sproket, let's see if any/all of that works!

Click to expand...

Just had a thought.

Previous owner may have used a different mix ratio than you. Mix up a fresh batch of fuel and then re-tune the carb. If they used less oil than you are using now, that could cause the lean running and extra heat.

Good idea, because honestly I think my father in law just guessed on the oil mixture with no real measuring involved.

Clarkbug said:

If they used less oil than you are using now, that could cause the lean running and extra heat.

Click to expand...

That is backwards. less oil makes a richer air/fuel mixture. carbs measure air/fuel not oil/fuel. Less oil=more gas so that would be richer.

Any of the name brand 2-stroke oils are fine. I switch between Stihl and Echo myself.

Sprocket nose bars can be troublesome, if you let them get fouled up. I give mine a squirt of grease thru the little sprocket tip grease hole once per day, when out cutting. Stihl ES bars have sealed sprocket bearings, and no grease holes, but most others have them.

Did you pull the shrouds and clean the air fins? That and carb setting are more likely than any of the other issues, but it never hurts to check everything.

Fifelaker said:

That is backwards. less oil makes a richer air/fuel mixture. carbs measure air/fuel not oil/fuel. Less oil=more gas so that would be richer.

Click to expand...

I agree. My wording wasn't clear. I was implying that the saw was tuned for the previous mixture, and the new ratio could be causing a lean condition.

Fifelaker said:

That is backwards. less oil makes a richer air/fuel mixture. carbs measure air/fuel not oil/fuel. Less oil=more gas so that would be richer.

Click to expand...

Exactly so if he uses more oil he is running lean and therefore hotter