Finally been using my stove (first ever..) questions/issues...

To test whether it is your wood get one or two bundles of kiln-dried wood from the store and try to add those after you have started the fire. I am almost sure you will be able to close the door after a few minutes and then you start dialing down the air.

Grisu said:

To test whether it is your wood get one or two bundles of kiln-dried wood from the store and try to add those after you have started the fire. I am almost sure you will be able to close the door after a few minutes and then you start dialing down the air.

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+1 Good idea.
Or just use them straight without anything else. Also, if that works well, you'll know your chimney is drafting adequately.

Too bad we need to wait a week to find out...

cabinner said:

I have some scrap dimensional lumber and I have those wood floor pieces (oak). Will these do?

Let me see if I understand: you want me to start the fire (which means starting a batch of kindling until they are hot coals?) and then throw some store bought wood on it and see if those catch on fire in 5 minutes?

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Yes, get the fire going with your wood floor pieces/scrap lumber until you have a good bed of hot coals and the stove is already kind of warmed up. Rake most of the coals in front, place the store bought wood on top until you reach the top of the firebricks (probably several logs). The wood should catch fire in less than 5 minutes. Let the fire fully engulf the wood with the door open. Close door, wait a few minutes until fire has recovered, then dial down the air control until the flames become lazy. Wait another 5 minutes for fire to become vigorous again, further close down air control. Continue until the air control is almost or completely closed. You should see full secondaries in the top of the firebox and the stove top should be in the 500 F to 650 F range.

And if I do have the ceder ones: I just start with the logs and the ceder? I am just trying to figure out my plan for next weekend..

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Maybe do as I outlined above. Once you know the stove runs well you can experiment with the SuperCedars and how to start a fire with logs right away.

cabinner said:

1. I know I can't expect it to last very long and it does say on it "max 6 hours" which means probably 4-5 hours but I am very far from that.

2. I did use crappy wood so far... The oak wood floor I didn't use in my cabin. But I did get excellent wood today and will try with it next weekend.

3. I wish I can close it quickly. I just feel that the fire dies out if I do. Also I need keep the lever open for very long.

4. I was thinking on getting these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1630083502&pf_rd_i=507846

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These fire starters work great , easy to find, the price is good, Rutland Safe Lite Fire Starter Squares, 144-Squares ,13 bucks, you can get em at HD, tractor supply , ace hardware , ect .
I only use 1 to start a fire
The ones you linked to look the same but I have never used them , super cedars are a little better but cost more

cabinner said:

In the cabin.. Test on oak shows 20%. I started fire with some kindling, those Rutland starters, and the oak. Made a V shape and it went very well. Going strong now for 15 min with the stove door open. but when I close the door. Ther flames almost die out

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With the air turned up? Is this the oak flooring or the new cord wood?

Is this the new cord wood? How did you measure the MC? On a freshly split face?

Seems like it has to be either the wood or poor draft. Do you get any smoke on start up or with the door open?

What size are your splits and how full is the stove?

cabinner said:

I tested on the face. It was split last week but might even been dead and leaning on another tree for 10 years

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I know you tested it, but it still may be suspect. Wood just isn't going to dry with bark still on it, dead or alive. I just cut a snag dead for several years and it was 35% and even punky and light.

Well, it's only been about 20 minutes (okay 45 min now). Maybe the large oak splits are going to take that long to get going. Next start up try using smaller splits and see if that makes a difference. Maybe more kindling too. Not being there, it's hard for me to visualize what's going on there. Stick around, others will chime in.

With the door closed, is there a lot of smoke in the box, or does it seem to be drafting at this point?

Are you getting unrestricted air through the OAK?

When you have the door open just a crack does it look/sound like you are blowing air into the firebox with a fan? Or is the fire already struggling?

cabinner said:

Btw when I open the door to add wood - I had very very strong flames. Unlike when the door is closed r

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Sure sounds like a draft problem, but the wood could still be a factor.

No chimney smoke means that the secondaries are working - a good sign.

Check the installation manual and find the air intake. Inspect the outside air system to make sure the outside air is getting through okay. I would think that 16' of flue would be adequate for draft.

I still would be a lot more comfortable if you could get some store bought kiln dried wood and try it.