Whitfield Profile 30 - faulting after 1+ hours

colo00 said:

The stove starts normally, the flame is high for about 15 minutes, then the flame dies down, then it just seems like the stove struggles, then it faults. I cleaned the stove thoroughly. I replaced the photoeye, but no change. I bypassed the switches, but no change. Could it be the control panel (new fuse? recalibrate? new panel?).

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I had a Whit 30. Easy stove to fix. Question, when the stove is struggling, does it stop feeding pellets or does the burnpot fill with pellets and it goes out? If the fuse was bad, the stove wouldn't turn on. Is the control panel blinking or going out when the fault occurs? I have wiring diagram for this stove and manual loading on my pC

That's because when the stove starts it goes into a programmed loop mode.

Dumps pellets
Turns on igniter
Dumps a little more.
Waits some time
Dumps more
Let's flame almost go out to create hot coals
Dumps more then looks for flame via eye.

Takes anywhere from 5 minutes to 15.

Once it sees a flame it goes into normal mode which it allows u to raise room blower speed and heat level.

I moved my eye into the shoot so it's a straight shot to the burn pot. Cheaper than the relocation kit. And haven't had an issue since.

Did you bypass the Vacuum switch? If the eye is pointing into the flame, sounds like auger motor is worn . The bushing for the shaft wears on this model and also causes the auger to bind. Updated bushing is available.

bump.. see my post

colo00 said:

I bypassed all switches (pressure & both high-limit). I checked the door gasket. I put in a new control board, but stove is still not working appropriately. The auger motor sounded like it was working, but the collar was not moving. I removed shaft and there was some build up on it so I cleaned that off; the bushing looked fine. See attached.

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As stated , if the auger shaft is not turning and the motor makes noise, the gear box attached to the motor is bad. ^ screws take it apart, take a peek inside

It's the photo eye. If the green light flashes on the front of the stove after it burns out. That tells you the eye lost flame detection after startup.

Take eye out clean it or even reposition it. I couldn't spend the 300 for a relocation eye kit so I made my own. Drilled a hole in the feed tub put eye in it then used some epoxy to hold it in. Haven't had an issue yet.

turbosporsche said:

It's the photo eye. If the green light flashes on the front of the stove after it burns out. That tells you the eye lost flame detection after startup.

Take eye out clean it or even reposition it. I couldn't spend the 300 for a relocation eye kit so I made my own. Drilled a hole in the feed tub put eye in it then used some epoxy to hold it in. Haven't had an issue yet.

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Not all Whit profile stoves require the photo eye relocate kit, only early production units, mine did not. It wasstated the motor is running but auger not turning is a bad gear (s) in the auger motor

Phil Do's fire. said:

Not all Whit profile stoves require the photo eye relocate kit, only early production units, mine did not. It wasstated the motor is running but auger not turning is a bad gear (s) in the auger motor

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Did not see that.

Phil Do's fire. said:

Did you bypass the Vacuum switch? If the eye is pointing into the flame, sounds like auger motor is worn . The bushing for the shaft wears on this model and also causes the auger to bind. Updated bushing is available.

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X2 I agree