Eco 65 error P

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Love the Heat

Love the Heat

Member
Feb 3, 2012
202
Val Des Monts, Quebec ,Canada
Hi Folks.

Got an error P yesterday and of course we were in the middle of a planned power outage :( .

So got the book out in a hurry and it has something to with the pressure switch, waited for the
stove to completely shutdown. Cause #1 in book says "airflow pressure switch or pressure tap for hose
are blocked".
So as suggested I disconnected the tube and blew into it, it was not block as far as I can tell.

Restarted the stove as it was -14C and been running since.

Just wondering what could of caused it???? the only thing I've done in that area was when I did my pre-season cleaning of the clean-out trap where the switch is connected.....

all comments are welcome... Regards
 
cause #1... are there other causes? For me when something happens reset and I wait till it happens twice before I become concerned.


-14....bbbbrrrrrr
 
the P error is usually a sign of a dirty stove.
 
Every time I've gotten the Error P, my Eco 65 is in need of a thorough cleaning. The kind of cleaning that requires removal of side panels, vacuuming out all ash, cleaning ash build-up off of exhaust fan fins, cleaning exhaust pipes, etc.. Keep a set (or two) of gaskets on hand for just such an occasion.
 
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WNCBear said:
Every time I've gotten the Error P, my Eco 65 is in need of a thorough cleaning. The kind of cleaning that requires removal of side panels, vacuuming out all ash, cleaning ash build-up off of exhaust fan fins, cleaning exhaust pipes, etc.. Keep a set (or two) of gaskets on hand for just such an occasion.
Click to expand...
That's the type I did for my pre-season startup and probably burned 1/2 ton since then...
Maybe while doing that I ended up moving some dirt in the pressure tap ????

will do a good cleanup in a few minutes..thx

where did you get your gasket by the way?????
 
Love the Heat said:
That's the type I did for my pre-season startup and probably burned 1/2 ton since then...
Maybe while doing that I ended up moving some dirt in the pressure tap ????

will do a good cleanup in a few minutes..thx

where did you get your gasket by the way?????
Click to expand...

You can remove the left side panel exposing the pressure switch hose connection near the bottom left of the unit. With everything off and relative quiet in the room, you can give it a very gentle blow. If the line is clear, you can hear it "click" at the switch on the other side of the stove. If if clicks, it's likely working fine. Take and open up a paper clip and gently stick it in the hole on the metal plate where the hose attaches. Give it a twist, or two. This might dislodge any material blocking the hole in the fan cover plate. If you're going to have it all apart anyway, you can check the orifice from the inside of the plate.

As for use b/w cleanings, I can go about 1.5 tons burning Turman pellets. That's all I burn now. I burned some Old Dominions, Presto, and a few others last winter while figuring out which brand worked best for me. With all but the Turmans, I and barely made it through 20 bags before the stove needed a break-down and cleaning again. Pellet quality has been covered extensively on this forum. Lots of opinion. Just got to find what works best for you with respect to heat and ash.

As for gaskets, I ordered my last sets from the stove manufacturer. Go to the Drolet website. The maintenance gasket kit can be found listed in the replacement parts section.
 
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WNCBear said:
You can remove the left side panel exposing the pressure switch hose connection near the bottom left of the unit. With everything off and relative quiet in the room, you can give it a very gentle blow. If the line is clear, you can hear it "click" at the switch on the other side of the stove. If if clicks, it's likely working fine. Take and open up a paper clip and gently stick it in the hole on the metal plate where the hose attaches. Give it a twist, or two. This might dislodge any material blocking the hole in the fan cover plate. If you're going to have it all apart anyway, you can check the orifice from the inside of the plate.

As for use b/w cleanings, I can go about 1.5 tons burning Turman pellets. That's all I burn now. I burned some Old Dominions, Presto, and a few others last winter while figuring out which brand worked best for me. With all but the Turmans, I and barely made it through 20 bags before the stove needed a break-down and cleaning again. Pellet quality has been covered extensively on this forum. Lots of opinion. Just got to find what works best for you with respect to heat and ash.

As for gaskets, I ordered my last sets from the stove manufacturer. Go to the Drolet website. The maintenance gasket kit can be found listed in the replacement parts section.
Click to expand...


Mainly Cubex for me, ordered 2 sets of gasket this afternoon. Did a good cleaning and started. The new (to me) maintenance manual on the Drolet site
was beneficial to me for the panel removal, I always had trouble with them as I was pulling them completely forward...
 
Invest in a magnehelic gauge it, so you can see before it shuts down. Best $20 I spent on Ebay, the pressure switch shuts the stove down at .1"wc I run at .30-.35 "W.c, if I see this drop to .2 I know something is not right.. magnehelic.jpg
 
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hyfire said:
Invest in a magnehelic gauge it, so you can see before it shuts down. Best $20 I spent on Ebay, the pressure switch shuts the stove down at .1"wc I run at .30-.35 "W.c, if I see this drop to .2 I know something is not right..View attachment 119115
Click to expand...

Pretty techy stuff. :)
I'll read on this, if you have a picture of where the connection is made, would be nice

I just picked up one also on EBAY, I could not get a 0-.50 so I got the 0-1".
This is neat, you know exactly the heath of your stove...
 
Last edited:
Well just use it as a guide, many other things can go wrong. Also it is very important to keep the gauge vertical, you will have to make a bracket to hold it. All you have to do is Tee it in with the pressure switch line. On my set up i tapped a new hole in the plate on the exhaust box, but you don;t have to go to those extremes.
 
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