Axe Sharpening

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DamienBricka

Feeling the Heat
Nov 3, 2013
341
Pittsburgh, Pa
I am in need to sharpened 3 axes.
What is the best way to proceed.
Thanks,
Damien
 
With a bastard file and/or a whetstone. Put the axe in a vice and go to work.
 
I am in need to sharpened 3 axes.
What is the best way to proceed.
Thanks,
Damien

What kind of shape is it in to start with?

We go to auctions quite often and I can usually pick up hand tools pretty cheap. Axes and hatchets are an item I keep my eyes open for. A lot of them were in pretty rough shape. I had to start with the bench grinder to get the larger scars out. Then the file to smooth out the edge. And finally a stone to really clean it up and have a nice edge. However, I wouldn't recommend the bench grinder unless the axe has seen a lot of rocks.
 
I have had pretty good results with the cheap, crappy Fiskars sharpener.
Blade-Sharpener_product_main.jpg

http://www2.fiskars.com/Gardening-a...d-Striking-Tools/Blade-Sharpener#.Upq0YsSTiSo
 
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Big,sharp bastard file. Axes and hatchets if made properly have a hardness under 50 Rockwell - most likely around 45 so I sharp file should dig right in. If your file skips you need a new file. Get one, a good one - they are inexpensive.

Little tip: Drill a hole in a golf ball and stuff the tang of your file onto it. Makes a great and comfortable handle your can really get some purchase on even wearing gloves.

Also - a belt sander is better choice for serious stock removal - a bench grinder will alter your bevel if you are not super careful do to the round wheel
 
a bench grinder will alter your bevel if you are not super careful do to the round wheel

That's a fact. It takes a lot of practice to recover that factory bevel if you screw it up. That's why I practiced on the auction acquisitions.
 
Big,sharp bastard file. Axes and hatchets if made properly have a hardness under 50 Rockwell - most likely around 45 so I sharp file should dig right in. If your file skips you need a new file. Get one, a good one - they are inexpensive.

Little tip: Drill a hole in a golf ball and stuff the tang of your file onto it. Makes a great and comfortable handle your can really get some purchase on even wearing gloves.

Also - a belt sander is better choice for serious stock removal - a bench grinder will alter your bevel if you are not super careful do to the round wheel

Agreed. It will also alter the temper of the edge if not done carefully.
 
I know the axes that I bought are not the best. None of the ones I bought were sharp when I bought them. Is that normal or unusual?
I spend several hours sharpening one of them and it is still dull. Am I doing something wrong?
 
I use a metabo (6'' electric grinder) with a flap wheel, or round 5'' hand sander with 220 grit with axe in vice
takes a few min.
my way, your results may vary. others have other ways depends your tool arsenal :cool:
 
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I know the axes that I bought are not the best. None of the ones I bought were sharp when I bought them. Is that normal or unusual?
I spend several hours sharpening one of them and it is still dull. Am I doing something wrong?
Were you able to get an edge on your axes, Damien?
 
No I was not so I returned the axes to Lowes and will buy products that are recommended on this forum
I spend half a day on one axe yesterday and I got no where.
 
Little tip: Drill a hole in a golf ball and stuff the tang of your file onto it. Makes a great and comfortable handle your can really get some purchase on even wearing gloves.

Darn good idea! I'm definitely going to do that!
 
Sorry to hear that. That sounds frustrating.

I did find this video on sharpening that I thought was interesting. It made the process seem pretty simple if you had the right equipment.

I don't know hardly anything about this, so please don't consider this an endorsement, but I will post the link here and ask the folks who do know about sharpening to let us both know if this guy's approach makes sense. Here's the link: http://wranglerstar.blogspot.com/2013/06/axe-how-to-sharpen.html

For any of you who know sharpening, if you don't like this approach, or know of better, simpler ways to sharpen axe blades, if you'd post them here for us newbs to benefit, I for one would appreciate it!

Thanks in advance.
 
1750 I watch that video to and I thought it was interesting. I think my problem was with the steel. So I decided to order the X27 that everyone is talking about on the site.
 
I just bought one for a friend and got to try it over the weekend. I now have splitter-envy!

It's razor sharp, so careful with that axe!

Good luck and let us know what you think of the mythical X-27 (just the name makes it sound like something from a James Bond movie).
 
I don't have time to watch the video this morning but the goal with and edged cutting tool is a consistent, even bevel. Unlike a knife the bevel on an axe needs to be steeper which makes it stronger. Start it about 1/4" or so back of you planned finished edge. You want it sharp enough to bite and steep enough to begin the split. You are trying to move the wood apart in opposite directions with striking blows - not slice through it like and tenderloin.
 
Thanks, Bob. Those are really helpful suggestions.

The video shows a way to calculate the geometric "center" of the axe head, and then how to create a simple jig on a belt sander that locks the head in to maintain a consistent angle and bevel. I'd never thought about a center that dictated the cutting arc, and just wondered what experienced sharpeners thought of this concept.

Thanks again.
 
Clearly there is a physics purpose for identifying center mass so if you want to set up the sharpening jig it will work but for chopping wood a new, clean sharp file should be all you need to get a clean edge and evened up bevel.
 
Got the X27 on Thursday. What an awesome axe. I feel i am cuting steal with it. So Amazing.
 
Just FYI - a splitting axe doesn't really need sharpening. Ever. And I doubt many of us are limbing or falling with a chopping axe. Just sayin'. . .
 
Please explain Bigg_Redd as I am not to sure at what you mean?
 
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