Helping a buddy choose an insert

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cableman

cableman

Minister of Fire
Sep 26, 2013
708
long island
Ive been telling him to convert his fireplace for years! I dont know much about inserts, still finishing my own shelburne install!
The measurements are 34"w by 26"h by 21"d and the back is 24"w not sure how high in the back i have to measure that one. Big glass i know will be high on their list and maybe flush or close to it.
I dont know where to steer him! What are some good brands that he would be more likely to buy local, he likes to be able to see things in person before he buys! Well find the liner and what not somewhere else cause dealers are just too expensive round here for that stuff!
Ill take more pics of chimney and what ever is needed!
Heres his fireplace, the brick will be covered with ledge stone tiles after, so there will prolly be a granite border around the opening 1st. House is a 2200sq' split, but hes not looking to heat the whole house.
image.jpg
 
There are plenty of good brands out there. There are two styles, flush and those that extend. The extended models are larger. Go for the largest insert you can get otherwise you are not taking advantage of the max BTU when you need it. You will pay more for the Cast surround models that have nice designs as they are more attractive to look at vs the flat surround plates. Look around online here and you'll find what you are looking for.
 
Ok so he checked out the hearthstone clydesdale, $5300 installed! Prolly not with block off plate and prolly not insulated liner but he will ask! Im gonna push him to let me install it with him. He's gonna ck out regency and Osborne also, they also showed him pacific energy which was much cheaper!
Do you just rip out the damper assembly and make a block off plate with a hole the size of the liner?
Can durarock be used as a block off plate?
When i measure for liner should i measure from bottom of fireplace to top of chimney and subtract the flu hight of the stove?
 
Ok thanks. Hows the jotul 550 compare also? Any others make the brown color like the clydesdale?
 
If he's Looking at the Osburn he may want to take a look at the Enerzone same company. The other line is Quad they make a brown enamel unit as well.
 
When I was looking for my insert it was between the Clyde, Harmon i300 and the VC montpelier, they all come in brown enamel, my insert is flush and looks beautiful, it works well for me...
 
Ok heres his chimney. 11" sq inside diameter. I guess insulated 6" will fit in easy? Its 21' from top to bottom of fireplace. The damper is offset a little and you can just see it in the bottom right of pick.
Anything special need to be done with this?
image.jpg
image.jpg
 
that chimney needs a good cleaning before a liner is put down it!!
 
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I know right! I dont think he did it last year!
 
The chimney also moves which cant be right! Is there a strap that can be installed and lagged into the ridge beam? The brick and all look good with no stress cracks i can see of.
 
cableman said:
The chimney also moves which cant be right! Is there a strap that can be installed and lagged into the ridge beam? The brick and all look good with no stress cracks i can see of.
Click to expand...

Have the chimney and fireplace cleaned and inspected and go from there. I installed a Jotul Kennebec C450 in my fireplace about five years ago, which was a similar size. There are pictures in my install thread. It is not that difficult to do yourself if you have some mechanical aptitude.
 
he hasn't had that chimney cleaned in a long time. The chimney should not move something is definitely wrong. look for a good sweep in the area try csia.org and get a inspection done before he goes any does anything.
 
Ok chimney cleaned, we ended up using some heavy galv steel strand cable i have, Used some turn buckles in the attic to pull it tight to house. Heres a pic of the damper, does the whole assembly get removed? image.jpg
 
Damper door comes off, and if the 6" still won't fit through and get to the outlet straight, then get the sawzaw and angle grinder out and cut it out large enough for the liner to drop through and into the stove outlet.
I bought a 6' section of aluminum flex duct flex from Home Depot to use as a guide as to how much to cut out. Note, the aluminum duct was only to use as a guide, not used in the final set up!
 
Ok cool so i dont have to rip it all out! That looked a little harder!
 
Nope, just remove what you need to get the liner through and in to the insert outlet.
The make and install a block off plate around the liner, and your good to go.
 
I stopped by when the chimney guy was cleaning it and was bs ing, he was like you really dont need a block off plate if you insulate up top! I told my buddy we'll take care of it!
 
I'll show you!

flex in damper.JPG
 
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cableman said:
I stopped by when the chimney guy was cleaning it and was bs ing, he was like you really dont need a block off plate if you insulate up top! I told my buddy we'll take care of it!
Click to expand...

That seems to be the standard answer in my area from sweeps and installers as well. I have even gone back for one friend of a friend and helped him remove his "Professionally" installed insert to add one. Like Hogwildz says the damper plate is made to come out by hand. The most you may need to remove is a piece of the damper throat which is easily done with a 4 inch electric grinder and cut off wheel. You may not even need to do that step if the opening is big enough.
 
Am i able to just close off the open area of the damper part once the liner is in or building a block off plate lower is a better idea?
 
cableman said:
Am i able to just close off the open area of the damper part once the liner is in or building a block off plate lower is a better idea?
Click to expand...
If you can install th block off plate to the old damper framing, go for it, that would prolly make it easier. Some self taping screws right into the metal.
 
Ok cool, hes gonna pick a stove hopefully this week or next! Then ill go over every thing else he needs to get her done!
 
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