Thanks wiser and thanks for the photos. Looks great.Hey Ash,
I simply cut holes in my basement ceiling and main level flooring then fitted the holes with 4" x 10" duct grates that would normally be used in a forced air system.
I didn't do any duct work between, just aligned the ceiling and floor holes.
I would have liked to go bigger but we couldn't find larger grates that both my wife and I liked the style of.
There is a local code here that doesn't allow any type of ducting over a woodstove so I didn't locate any grates straight above the stove.
Definitely check with your local building and woodstove installation code.
Hey Ash,
I simply cut holes in my basement ceiling and main level flooring then fitted the holes with 4" x 10" duct grates that would normally be used in a forced air system.
I didn't do any duct work between, just aligned the ceiling and floor holes.
I would have liked to go bigger but we couldn't find larger grates that both my wife and I liked the style of.
There is a local code here that doesn't allow any type of ducting over a woodstove so I didn't locate any grates straight above the stove.
Definitely check with your local building and woodstove installation code.
Have not mis-lead here. I've looked into if they were required here earlier.
Oh where is Elk when you need him...
(-13
), I hope that it works. 
I load it pretty full. I don't cram it full up though. I usually load it when I get home about 1:30, then, the wife will put a few splits in when she gets up. Then I will fill it again before I leave for work in the afternoon.
I thought it would be a breeze, but, I think it is our bay windows in the living room, as that is the coldest room down stairs, plus, the windows are old.
I am looking for an incense that burns with more smoke so that I can look for drafts. I can't feel drafts, but, there has to be cold air coming from some where. I am also thinking of getting a home evaluation done.
As for now though, I will keep the wood flowing, the king cranked and the fan blowing.
It is still way better than last year. Where I couldn't even get our living room to stay at 20
I don't know about the USA, but I can tell you that in Canada building codes vary from region to region and after 30 years of being in the building industry in Canada I've never heard any code restrictions about putting air circulation holes between floors, or any requirement to install said "fusible links" in residential one family dwellings. That isn't to say there isn't some somewhere, but the restrictions, if they are there, might not even be in any actual building codes. For instance, my woodstove in my garage is required to have an elevated hearth that is 18" off the floor. That requirement is not part of any building code, but rather part of the WETT requirements that you will probably need before insurance companies will insure you.
It may be more of a co danger than a fire hazard. like I said before, any return air ducting within 10 feet of heating appliance must be sealed. this is to reduce the chance of co being distributed via ducting. maybe this is part of the "open register" concern. plus the obvious smoke and fire hazard. but they make automation stuff to control this. I am not sure the cost of the stuff though. personally, if you have a GOOD co detector and smoke alarm you are safer than a mechanical part that is iffy from the start. and a lot of them are a one time only.
I can agree with that, smoke detectors and co detectors are much better bets than fusible link vents.
I don't think there is any "real world" danger. someone else may see it different. the theory on the garage may be the same as a window called "intent of use" or something like that. an oak I don't think would change it. I install high efficiency systems that draw combustion air from outside and I still have to seal the ductwork.
