how do you guy's cool the stove with overfire?

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altmartion

altmartion

Feeling the Heat
Nov 8, 2013
388
pulaski ny
I just got back from moving snow, and my stove thermometer is pegged at 900. now I am sure it was well over that and I was concerned. but I guess I don't really know what to do. so I put 2 fans blowing air onto it. and after over an hour it is now at 750. how do you pro's cool it with extinguishing it?
 
altmartion said:
I just got back from moving snow, and my stove thermometer is pegged at 900. now I am sure it was well over that and I was concerned. but I guess I don't really know what to do. so I put 2 fans blowing air onto it. and after over an hour it is now at 750. how do you pro's cool it with extinguishing it?
Click to expand...

Each stove and situation is different. Most of the guys here seem to like opening the door to let some cool air in and push the heat up the flue. If it is really out of control I have been known to shovel some fine sand in to smother some of the fire. Others throw some cold, non-seasoned splits on top to cool it down.

Lots of threads on the topic, use the search feature....

KaptJaq
 
If I remember right you have an EPA stove. Counter intuitive but give it more air. Opening the air controls flushes the box with cool room air and lets heat go up the flue.
 
KaptJaq said:
Each stove and situation is different. Most of the guys here seem to like opening the door to let some cool air in and push the heat up the flue. If it is really out of control I have been known to shovel some fine sand in to smother some of the fire. Others throw some cold, non-seasoned splits on top to cool it down.

Lots of threads on the topic, use the search feature....

KaptJaq
Click to expand...
I never thought of the wood idea. I do have some green and damp wood. I did open and close the door a few times but not sure if it made a difference or not. thanks
 
jatoxico said:
If I remember right you have an EPA stove. Counter intuitive but give it more air. Opening the air controls flushes the box with cool room air and lets heat go up the flue.
Click to expand...
it has secondary's, does that make it epa? I thought about doing that but was afraid it do the opposite. for some reason when I open the bypass the flue temp takes a long time to rise. even at 900 plus. is this normal?
 
altmartion said:
it has secondary's, does that make it epa? I thought about doing that but was afraid it do the opposite. for some reason when I open the bypass the flue temp takes a long time to rise. even at 900 plus. is this normal?
Click to expand...

Yeah basically secondaries makes it EPA for discussion. Not sure what you mean by bypass. My understanding of a bypass means it bypassing a cat, but I am by no means a stove expert.

If you mean opening up the primary air means it takes time for the flue temps to rise then it sorta verifies that you are sending heat up and out. Are you regularly hitting 900? Did you ever post a pic of your setup? I'm not entirely clear what you have and where you are taking these readings.
 
altmartion said:
it has secondary's, does that make it epa? I thought about doing that but was afraid it do the opposite. for some reason when I open the bypass the flue temp takes a long time to rise. even at 900 plus. is this normal?
Click to expand...

What stove is this? Lopi?
 
I can tell you on my non-epa smoke dragon downstairs I can drop the stovetop temp by 50 degrees just by leisurely opening it to put in another split. Leave it open for a minute or more and I can drop the temp 100 degrees. Seems completely counter-intuitive, but it's confirmed with an IR gun.
 
To
KaptJaq said:
Each stove and situation is different. Most of the guys here seem to like opening the door to let some cool air in and push the heat up the flue. If it is really out of control I have been known to shovel some fine sand in to smother some of the fire. Others throw some cold, non-seasoned splits on top to cool it down.

Lots of threads on the topic, use the search feature....

KaptJaq
Click to expand...
Along the same lines as the sand idea, some people have commented on using ashes to calm down an overfire..
 
Throwing in a split or two of unseasoned wood seems to work for me. I generally do not like the idea of opening the door all the way, but I have done it. Just never walk away, even for a minute. A lot of folks here block the air intake with foil or something, but the only way to get to mine is from inside the stove and I'm not sticking my hand in there.
 
To me, opening the door does work, but I don't want a roaring fire full of embers pushing up the stack with an full blast of air. If, there is any build up above, it has better chance of flaming up.
I would cut the air all the way back, and simply ride it out. It will settle down on it's own.
 
When you swing the door wide open, not part way or open and closing over and over, the heat rush up the chimney is momentary. And breaking the draft vacuum in the fire box shuts down airflow from the secondary air inlets as well as any unrestricted air to the front of the load. What goes up the pipe for a second isn't any hotter than what is going up it from a roaring firebox. Cooler actually since is is mixed with an inrush of cool room air.
 
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I open the door and put my screen on. That settles it right down.
 
jatoxico said:
Yeah basically secondaries makes it EPA for discussion. Not sure what you mean by bypass. My understanding of a bypass means it bypassing a cat, but I am by no means a stove expert.

If you mean opening up the primary air means it takes time for the flue temps to rise then it sorta verifies that you are sending heat up and out. Are you regularly hitting 900? Did you ever post a pic of your setup? I'm not entirely clear what you have and where you are taking these readings.
Click to expand...
I will post a pic. I am on the home stretch of todays snow removal goal. I just got done plowing my restaurant for 3 hours, now I have to snow blow paths in the yard so my old dog can poo without his bung plugging with snow first. it's an Avalon, 1190 or 1750 or something. the identification sticker is gone. no, I don't like 900, it makes me nervous. I usually run 500 or so during the day.
 
Hogwildz said:
To me, opening the door does work, but I don't want a roaring fire full of embers pushing up the stack with an full blast of air. If, there is any build up above, it has better chance of flaming up.
I would cut the air all the way back, and simply ride it out. It will settle down on it's own.
Click to expand...
I think my issue with that is I really don't have anything that tells me a max temp. nothing was lowing that I could see, but the sides have louvered covers.
 
BrotherBart said:
When you swing the door wide open, not part way or open and closing over and over, the heat rush up the chimney is momentary. And breaking the draft vacuum in the fire box shuts down airflow from the secondary air inlets as well as any unrestricted air to the front of the load. What goes up the pipe for a second isn't any hotter than what is going up it from a roaring firebox. Cooler actually since is is mixed with an inrush of cool room air.
Click to expand...
so does it actually pull hot air out with it or does it just keep pulling fresh air?
 
I go outside and cover the outdoor air inlet that feeds my stove through the O.A.K..
 
altmartion said:
so does it actually pull hot air out with it or does it just keep pulling fresh air?
Click to expand...

Pulls the firebox full of hot gases up the flue (the stuff that is burning wild in the stove). Mixed with cool room air from the open door.

Folks to see what it does, open the door during a secondary burn sometime when your stove isn't running away. Practice before the fact is a good learning experience.
 
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BrotherBart said:
Pulls the firebox full of hot gases up the flue (the stuff that is burning wild in the stove). Mixed with cool room air from the open door.

Folks to see what it does, open the door during a secondary burn sometime when your stove isn't running away. Practice before the fact is a good learning experience.
Click to expand...

It's the gas that's out of control, most of the firewood hasn't started to off gas yet.

Like my run away a few years ago with the rounds added to a 500F stove.

Live & Learn.
 
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tsquini said:
I open the door and put my screen on. That settles it right down.
Click to expand...
That basically turns the stove into an open fireplace. The secondaries have no chance to burn any more and the hot air just flushes up the flue. It makes sense, but I think I might be concerned about embers flying out, like Hogwildz mentioned. But you'd have the same concern if you had to open the door to put sand or wet wood or soaking towels in there.

Turning a table fan onto the stove will help cool it down, too.
 
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Sprinter said:
But you'd have the same concern if you had to open the door to put sand or wet wood or soaking towels in there.
Click to expand...

Or add wood to a fire.
 
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I don't think embers would be much of a problem.

Like I said, the firewood hasn't engaged yet.

But, Hogz does bring up a good point, if the fire is that much out of control.
 
here are a couple pics. I can't seem to get the one pic to rotate. computing is not my strong point. I know, boring with no fire, but I am wooped and ready for bed so I am burning the coals down to load it up for the night. I think I am gonna make tomorrow a slow day for me. let the boys work a little harder. lol
 

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altmartion said:
here are a couple pics. I can't seem to get the one pic to rotate. computing is not my strong point. I know, boring with no fire, but I am wooped and ready for bed so I am burning the coals down to load it up for the night. I think I am gonna make tomorrow a slow day for me. let the boys work a little harder. lol
Click to expand...

You have a draft problem, stoves supposed to go on the bottom.
 
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