Replacing parts on my quad castile

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rideboard147

Member
Feb 2, 2011
138
Weatherford Texas (DFW)
Well after reading numerous threads the last few days about the quad castile not getting enough air to the pot and pellets not burning fast enough which is building up in the pot, I decided to address this issue all at once because it's happening to me as well. I am replacing the combustion blower and the gasket, fire pot gasket, the door gasket, and updating my vent pipe to Simpson dura pellet vent pro from pellet vent. Plus a very good cleaning. I'm pretty sure the combustion blower is the original from 2004. Now I am deciding on a OAK. Here some pics.Luckily we have a stretch of warm weather (60's) this week here in North Tx.



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Nice, let us know if it helps out.
 
Another poster who vanished rather than update how things are going???!!!
 
Another poster who vanished rather than update how things are going???!!!

Nope didn't vanish :), just waiting for the parts to arrive in the mail. There has been a huge backup in the mail supply due to last weeks ice storm.
 
Ok castile freestanding owners... Should I put in a OAK? Or skip it? There is a mixed bag of reviews for the castile OAK system dating back some years. Wondering if anyone has figured out a way to make it work better? Or if it works just fine the way it comes for your stove?
 
Nope didn't vanish :), just waiting for the parts to arrive in the mail. There has been a huge backup in the mail supply due to last weeks ice storm.
Yea, it has delayed some Christmas gifts we ordered too.
 
I put in an OAK on my Castile insert only because it was convenient to run the tubing down the ash dump. I also got high temp silicone and ran some beads at the ash tray to 'kind of' seal it but the Castiles and Sante Fe's are so leaky that they will suck air from the path of least resistance (your house). I actually think all my sealing has helped some as I feel no drafts in that room like I do where the Sante Fe is situated. I can only go all the way up the 17 foot chimney on that one and I know it would be futile, although I have all the parts. Just don't have the incentive to drag this 70 year old but up two roof levels to do it.
 
I like your plan. During the winter I do usually around 3 service calls a day on pellet stoves, almost all of them just need a good cleaning.... about 20%-25% of them actually need parts and that is usually associated with poor cleaning habits.
 
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I like your plan. During the winter I do usually around 3 service calls a day on pellet stoves, almost all of them just need a good cleaning.... about 20%-25% of them actually need parts and that is usually associated with poor cleaning habits.

I bought this stove used about 3years ago, and knowing what I know now I wish I did all this when I first got it since it was used and I didn't know much of its history from the previous owner. I quickly learned good cleaning habits for the stove off this forum was a must. I have learned so much about how the stove works on this forum and never thought I would be breaking it down and replacing parts, but I'm glad I have dived off into it with confidence now unlike before. I realized after paying almost $200 for the dealer which is 2 hours away to barley do a cleaning, I was on my own with this stove. I am almost positive most of the parts are original from 2004. You live and learn and it's costing me some money for mistakes I made at the beginning. I will post some updates pics once the parts start arriving.
 
It's a good stove, and that sucks that the dealer sent a weak technician to take care of it for you but they are pretty simple. If you ever have any questions feel free to pm me. I work on these things day in and day out. If your combustion blower spins freely and isn't noisy I'd keep the new one on the shelf til the day the old one dies, but that's just me. They have a long service life as long as the housing and the area behind the baffles is kept nice and clean.
 
Thanks, I appreciate the offer. If the OAK has a leaky system then would that defeat the purpose? I may hold off on that till this summer for that project.
 
If the OAK has a leaky system then would that defeat the purpose?
From Quad's perspective, the main purpose of their OAK is to provide air to the stove in a tightly-sealed house (where it may not burn well due to lack of sufficient air).
The advantage of a "leaky" OAK is that the stove can still get air from the room if the OAK becomes blocked by snow/leaves/nest/etc. The disadvantage is that it's just a hole in the wall when the stove is not running.
If you decide to seal up the OAK at the stove, make sure that it remains clear whenever the stove is running.
 
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Update: Got the exhaust blower today via Mail and installed it. More parts on the way to complete the project.
 

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New gaskets, blower, and wire connections. Finally done here is pics. Thanks everyone for the help.
 

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Looking GOOD! Way to go!
 
let us know if you are still getting buildup. I get some in mine need to dump the pot every day or 2 or it cloggs the lower holes and i get a roar.

I am noticing a much better color to the flame and a cleaner burn so far. The true test will come tonight when I run the stove on medium all night. So far I have burned about 20 hours on low and have not had to clean the pot once. I hope I can get it back to only a once a week clean like it use to be. The stove will be on 24/7 starting today.
 
Mine has done this as well... usually at that point it needs a good cleaning. I can tell after about 40 bags and a deep cleaning after every 10 bags that it is time for a leaf blower cleaning. After doing that the pellets don't build up in pot anymore. I also notice that if I go more than 40 bags between leaf blower cleanings that it only takes about 6 bags before the pellets start building up too much. When I do the leaf blower thing, it brings it back to new condition.
 
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I do the leaf blower cleaning often and it does help. I'm still getting build up after last nights burn. Although not near as fast, it's still doing it. What I have notice is that my right heat exchange pull rod is black soot and the left is white ashy???I'm guessing a air leak in the door maybe? I replaced the gasket, but maybe I didn't do it right. Can you use different gasket other then the tag pole style? Maybe these pellets are just not the same as they use to be. I dunno at this point.
 
Your left pull rod is seeing much hotter temps so there is a more complete burn whereas your right side sees cooler air and more buildup of tar? That's my story and I'm sticking to it.
 
Your left pull rod is seeing much hotter temps so there is a more complete burn whereas your right side sees cooler air and more buildup of tar? That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

Any suggestions on what's causing this?
 
I'm thinking it's because the combustion blower is on the right side behind the rear baffle so the right heat exchanger is seeing a lot more exhaust than the left side.
 
I'm thinking it's because the combustion blower is on the right side behind the rear baffle so the right heat exchanger is seeing a lot more exhaust than the left side.
Which is basically what I said, assuming the OP knows that his combustion blower is on the right side. ;em
 
I'm not as pellet savvy, but I appreciate the help. I'm learning still. I may or may not pick up on what you mean unless it's directly said. Looks like I got a got a better burn last night when I tightened up the burn pot plate and cracked the door upstairs. My house may be to air tight?
 
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I'm not as pellet savvy, but I appreciate the help. I'm learning still. I may or may not pick up on what you mean unless it's directly said. Looks like I got a got a better burn last night when I tightened up the burn pot plate and cracked the door upstairs. My house may be to air tight?

I also did some fuel rate adjustments... It's getting better and better, a good sign.
 
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