Thanks to all that post here...

Hello,

New poster here, been in the shadows reading and reading, searching and reading more, gathering all sorts of useful information that has made my transition from the oil company to wood a smooth one. The quality and depth of the posts on all subjects from types of wood, chimney and stove info, drafting, safety, installations, etc, is above and beyond what I expected to find. Thank you to all that contribute here, either with just one post or dozens of them, they all pitched in to fill the voids that were left after reading manuals, web pages and listening to salesmen.

Put in a new Hearthstone Shelburn, full install, from the hearth, to the double wall up to the through the wall kit to the Selkirk stainless running 16' from there up the outside of the house. Everything went together as it should, it's been up and running for over a month now and what started as a "comfort" back-up heat source has since turned to 4 cords of wood stacked up, heaters turned down as far as they go, and a house sitting comfortably in the 70's (first time since I've owned it) aside from the -8 temps we woke up to today.

Thanks again to everyone, you've all been a great help, keep the info comming!

John.



Had I truly known how heavy 400 pounds of dead weight was I would've never picked the stove up in my truck or unloaded it by myself. Why those 2 by 6's didn't snap is beyond me!



Not wanting to use a "telescoping" section of pipe, and needing the double wall for clearance reasons, it was key to dry fit everything inside to determine the exact height of the hole location, as well as best estimating the length of the through the wall pipe (went with a 2' section of metalbest) being off just an inch or two would've resulted in either a telescoping pipe or a couple of 30 degree angles needed.



Despite exceeding the minimal distances required the wall was getting too warm for me to sleep easy as night so we ended up making a couple of panels from cement board and tile. Pre-installed 2" angle brackets on the back to line up with the wall studs, then tiled over the heads of the carriage bolts holding them in place. Put 2" brackets on the wall that mated up to them and presto, heat shield with 2" stand off and no direct heat transfer points. Not that this is key, because I'm still exceeding minimal clearances, but it's good practice.

Thanks, I love this stove. My girlfriend is really getting tired of hearing me say that daily.

Flu temps seem to be fairly constant around 500-600 unless it really gets rolling, it saw 900 the other day, but that's a rarity.

Same here, I could've waited for help to unload, but it was raining and I'm impatient.

Yep, probe in pipe, 900 is the beginning of the red zone.

Guy gave me the wrong thermometer fir the stovetop (one for single wall or cook top) so it's useless and I haven't got a new one yet. I should but it seems to be a pretty tame beast so far w good flu temps, so I'm not too worried.

Realized the ash pan is useless, but if that's it's only fault so far, I'm okay w that.

Piolet, how's the grill work on that thing? Easy enough to clean? The corner clearances were just a few inches more than the shelburne I ended up buying, otherwise that stove would be in my living room right now. Saw your other post on the installation, nice job.

Cableman, I like where you're going with the plug idea. Doesn't need to slide, just lift, hmmmm, keep me posted w any progress and I'll do the same.

Stack. Had to go out and take the pics, it was cold when we did it and we were racing the rain and the clock to return my buddies lift before his partner realized it was gone, but it's done and you can calibrate your level to it. There was no way given the house to go out a gable end so it's out on the low eve with a metal roof. We took a few precautions and beefed up some things where needed, used heavy duty screws on the supports, etc... I've got a lot of faith. Just survived a 14" snow fall (light and fluffy) but with a roof pitched at 50 degrees, not too much can build up before it lets go. Actually had to scrape the snow and ice off the "T" for photos and the stoves been burning non stop since the storm on Sunday, close clearance stays really cool on the outside.
It's a 14 pitch metal roof, I've got my 10' of horizontal but not my 2' of extra as recommended by others, The 2' section is in my shed, haven't seen a need for it yet, drafts good and in a pinch I can sort of reach the top of it as it is with a little sketchy ladder set-up and a wing and a prayer. Support collar with arms 4' down from the top and 6' above the one at the low eve.



Installed a "V" up hill on the roof made of metal roofing "Denver Eve" cut and bent at about 120 degrees and screwed down into the strapping, the steep pitch of the roof, combined with the 120 degree bend (really sharp point, like a "V") seem to work well together with the snow sliding, it cuts and splits the snow really well. There's also a band, that came with the through the wall kit, right at the edge of the roof that serves as a 2" stand-off and a key support where it's going to take it's hardest hits from the snow. Also stuck a piece in on the low eve as a drip diverter so the water didn't spash off the pipe "T" below and back onto the house. (I make a living repairing rot from small drips over time)

I swapped out the 1' piece of stainless that came with the through the wall kit for a 2' piece and built the supporting box that you see here. House has vinyl on it and I'm a contractor so regardless I had to strip the siding and put some sort of a backer plate on the wall to receive the triangle support bracket for the pipe. The guys at the local stove shop talked me into building it out, like so, so that I wouldn't have to cut into my roof, or use 2 angle pieces to jog it out around the soffit. Box is all PVC, flashed in every possible way (I hate vinyl, it's not water tight, but this box certainly is)

All wood is not equal. I started cutting some on my property 2 years ago, but not nearly enough. So 4 cord were purchased this year from 3 different people. Some fairly dry,(25% moisture) some sold as seasoned that's up near 40%, some green, not even worth checking with the mm.

I've got a good stash on the front screen porch for the days when I just don't want to deal with the pile and the tarps and the snow, also holds up the leg lamp nicely this time of year.

Alright, there's the pics of the stack. Proof that the smoke isn't just going into a wall cavity (I really really hope it's not going into a wall cavity)

Ort5, From a contractors point of view, it's easy if you take the time and read and re-read everything prior to starting. Also a good stove shop with good people with make sure you have what you need to get it done. I went to three shops before I found the one I dealt with and where I live, that's a lot of driving to go to 3 of them, but it was well worth it to have the owners, who are the salesmen, who are the installers, talk me through it all prior to selling me piece one. The Burning Bush Home Center in Warren NH, was a huge help in this and in making the pipe work out the way it did as well as being WAY below other dealers prices. (shameless plug, but worth it)

jags. what im hearing u say is that a thermometer is a thermometer. Theres no predetermined "handicap" or set-back on them depending on where theyre intended to be placed? I can "accurately" use my cook top/single wall pipe thermometer on top of my stove and pretty much trust the degree reading?