Too much draft PACIFIC ENERGY SUMMIT overfire?

If I read your post right, your flue was at 900 when you reloaded. If so, you should have let it cool more before the reload to avoid the overfire. If I reload my insert when hot, it can run away very quickly. Alternately, if the stove is warmer than usual, you will need to damp it down earlier because of the already established draft. Cut the air back enough that you lose the flame, then up just until it comes back, and you should be able to maintain the temp instead of increasing it.

I've had the same happen with the night time reload. I've learned to let my stove get further into the coaling phase of the fire before I add fuel.

All good point above.
Reload the stove below 300 degrees on a nice bed of coals. Dragging forward works for many, I level the bed out on the entire floor of the insert.
Load large splits and top off with mediums & smalls.
Load tight.
Don't load on an already established fire.
If you do load on a big bed of coals and the temp is over 300, cut the air back sooner. And it will climb on it's own up to peak & then cruising temp.

My routine:
200ish degree stove sometimes lower if I been on the road all day.
Full packed load, larges on bottom (3-4) mediums & smalls to top off with.
Usually around 7-8 splits all together.
I set the kitchen oven timer for 15 minutes.
Check stove when timer goes off, and if at 300 or just above, cut air back 1/2 way.
Set timer for another 10 minutes.
Cut air all the way back between 400 & 500.
Let it do it's thing.
Rinse, reload and run cycle again in 12 hours.
Usually peaks around 700-750, and level off to 600-650 range.

I used to have Riteway 37 side draft, which was very susceptible to taking off. I'm very careful; a red pipe is something I don't ever want to have to worry about again. I'd rather have a 60 degree house in the morning than have to worry about a take off. But if you let your pipe get up to 900 degrees(which is where my thermo is placed) you are losing an enormous amount of heat up the chimney that could be in your house. As long as the pipe at the top of the stove is burning at 475-500, that enough for me. With the fan running, I'm getting plenty of heat into the house. And after three years of doing that, the last time the stove pipe guy came(the guy who installed the SS chimney pipe) said I didn't need to get it done more than once every two years. Of course I'll have it done every year, but clearly buring at 475 - 500 tops is not producing creosote in the chimney.

I never fill it up at night when I'm not there. I get the house temps up to the mid 70's before bed and throw in a couple of logs for the night, when the stack temps are down. After that, I still have enough coals to get it going again 9 hours later.

The Air control? It's just a lever, right is low "L" and left is high or "Start". Rather simple. Most often mine sits to the right of the "L" unless it is on a start up or it is real cold out. Then I push it just to the left of the "L"

If you have used the ash chute, check that it is completely closed.

2000SI-G said:

the ash chute is completely closed.Theres a tiny bit of air leaking thru as I can see the fire burning a bit more where the chute is located

Click to expand...

depending on the draft, and air lever position, a bunch of air can leak at the ash chute. whenever you get the chance and are down there checking the EBT flap valve, I would take the opportunity to check and seal the ash chute - and never use it again. Also check the bolts on the bottom of the stove that hold the ash chute etc.

I'd like to see the Hogwildz/BBart cage match-

Drag the coals front vs. spread 'em and go.