New Clydesdale - First Post

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Almost done with the install, but how the heck can you bend that flex pipe to meet the angle out of the Clyde? I guess I could take it out, remove the appliance connector and use something with a 45 degree. Sure looks easy in the pictures. The pipe is straight, connector on an angle, not easy. I have to use the back default postion on the outlet, the straight one is too close to the front. Any suggestions?

thanks
Hef
 
Nevermind, I got it. Took a good 4 hours just for that connector, but it dropped in finally. Had to take the weight off that Vent Pipe, reposition, then the bend that I put in the flex vent dropped right in. Should be burning soon.
 
Installed, and burning! Did a couple of break-in fires over the last 2 days as recommended. It was amazingly warm here in Maryland, doors were open while the paint smell burned away. Now I'm loading it up. The big 3 room living area, around 700 sq ft of poorly insulated with 18 ft ceiling with no insulation up there is up to 73 deg. ...42 deg outside. I have my fan on the ceiling running reverse, wife is arguing with me about that:)
Here's a pic. See the gap on left and right, still figuring that out. What a bear that thing is to move with the vent stack on it. I'd like to move it about 1/4 - 1/2 inch into the fireplace, but I gave up for now. So the surround has a gap all around away from the brick. Anyway, we are happy with performance so far. Fan is blowing great, couple of vibration noises come and go, that sheet metal piece on the bottom center vibrates. But it quiets down.
IMG_20131224_114628_251.jpg
 
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See the gap on left and right, still figuring that out.
What about just using some mortar to fill the gap? The width would match the mortar gaps everywhere else, and you could always paint it black later if it looked weird.[/quote]
 
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Installation....I was shocked by the installation quote, I realize the flue liner and insullation is a large part of it, but I'm a handy guy and I think I can handls this. Spent 20 years in the sheet metal business, seeing the back plates and other enclosure things being built on hers has me interested. I have the Flex King Pro liner and insullation in a shopping cart ready to buy it. Any complaints about the. Internal walled Chimney, inuslated heated rooms behind all the way up for two floors, looks like 24 ft total. Flex King Pro is smooth lined and 6 inch inullation should make for good draw....Correct?
hef, did you get your quote from bay country stoves by the old giant on route 2? they are a little up there. course then, everybody is. I deal with waldorf hearth and patio now. I think they have a bit better selection of units and accessories, although they are still high too.
 
Hef-I put two small stones under that sheet metal piece on bottom-all vibration stopped.

I also have a little gap on the right side of my Clyde. I like it though because I can hit the pipe w an instant read thermometer...just a little piece of mind for me. It's not too noticeable.
 
I agree, Mortar to fill the gaps would be best. Adding metal to the Clyde Surround would not be easy to make it look right, I've thought a lot about it. If I could make a 2 inch mold to put cement into to keep it neat I'll do that. I've got a little concrete/masonry experience. I've thought of just attaching a Lintel piece, or two 16 inch pancake blocks, I could recess them and put a skim coat on the face to hide the seam. That might be best.
Yes, Bay Stoves on Rt 2. Nice guys over there, that's where I bought the Clyde after his recommendation. In hindsight, the estimate is not that bad, considering how much we paid for the vent pipe kit and insulation. Then the pain of cutting out that damper, and the fear of placing a ladder on my roof to get me to the top of that chimney. Could have been a disaster, but it all worked out, and I probably saved a good $1000 doing it myself.
Right now I have a screwdriver putting pressure on that metal vibration, small stones should work, thanks.
Still no complaints, I have a question for the group though.

The big room is warming up to a good 75, or higher if I wanted it to, now I want to try to circulate some of that warm air to other rooms. I turned on the Fan Only to my Trane Heat Pump, Heat switch is off, thermostat is not calling for heat. I go over to the vents, air is blowing, and it seems too warm, as if the heat is on. I go out and look at the compressor, and it's running. I was not expecting that, I thought in Fan Only mode, only the air handler in the crawlspace would run. Seems to me that the heat is on. I've read that what I'm trying to do is very difficult, to expect the warm air to stay warm as it moves to other rooms, I'm aware of this but I want to try it anyway. Any comments on why that compressor is running?
Also, in my other zone, when I call for Fan Only, I get nothing, suspect this is faulty wiring on the thermostat. This zone would certainly work I think, it would be pulling the warm air from high up in the heated room, and moving it to a cold small room.

Any comments on how to get that fan running on the 2nd zone, and why that compressor runs would be great. These other zones are very isolated from the heated area, moving air in other ways, fans etc. would be very difficult.

Thanks
Hef
 
Any comments on how to get that fan running on the 2nd zone, and why that compressor runs would be great. These other zones are very isolated from the heated area, moving air in other ways, fans etc. would be very difficult.

Thanks
Hef

I'd start with the t-stat connections first. Maybe neither is wired correctly. And, yes, you can expect a fair amount of heat loss in the ducts, but I know people who are relatively successful doing that.
 
Thanks, just checking in to say I'm still working this. T-stat connections are all ok. Been through it multiple times. I've run the fan a few times and I'm pretty sure it's only running the fan outside, and not kicking on any un-needed power for heat pump. Still strange though. Not sure it really helps. Some cold weather coming tonight. Will be burning a lot of wood over the next 24 hours. I'm amazed how fast I'm going through a cord. I'm certainly saving on the electric bill. I've become a power mizer around the house. I'm watching the electric meter. It's one of those digital accurate ones. So I can see the results quickly.

I bought the NEST Thermostat. It shows when the AUX heat is running opposed to regular Heat Pump. I like that. But when it's too cold the AUX still kicks in, even though I've told it to save money as much as possible. What's nice is the NEST shows my history, when the heat turns on and off. Really shows when the fire is burning and when it cools off overnight.

Thanks - Stay Warm!
 
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