Chain sharpening

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

doug crann

Member
Nov 28, 2013
67
eastern washington
Have been using a somewhat flimsy Oregon jig....the kind that clamps to the bar, you set the top/side angles and have at it. Less than thrilled with the results, chains are sharp but not real sharp....and the thing is flimsy to put it politely. Not a big fan of grinding cutting equipment, I use a Lansky to sharpen all of my pocket knives as well as the wife's Henckel kitchen knives.....Anyhow, seriously thinking about buying a grinder.....any suggestions on which to stay away from? or perhaps one that is a "must have"? Or does anyone know of a jig similar to the Oregon one I am using that is not so flimsy? The one I am using is the older version of http://www.oregonproducts.com/pro/products/accessories/BarMountFileGuide.htm
Like I mentioned, not real thrilled about grinding on cutting equipment but really would like the chains to be sharper than what they are....Thanks in advance....
 
I have a little grinder I picked up from CL that does a nice job. It is called the Jolly Mini and has a tiny arbor so I had to fab up a little dealio to make new grinding wheels fit but for 25 bones I am pleased. If you are buying new and money is little or no object look into as high end unit you can afford. Better, more accurate settings and potentially a means to grind the rakers would be a nice feature. Beyond that - the little hand crank deal looks really nice and is very well built for a decent price. Not sure what it is called but a search here will turn up some discussion.
 
If you are using the husq./Oregon roller guide on Stihl chain ,it won't do a good job . It has to do with the cutter profile of Stihl chain . If you are doing Stihl chain , or anything that uses a 30* cutter ,buy a Stihl FF1 file guide . They are about 12 bucks and work well . They are made for .325 ,or .375 chains . I don't know if file holders other than Stihl will fit them though .If you do decide to go with a grinder , TSC a fairly decent grinder . It's all metal as opposed to the plastic you get on the HF type grinder . Personally , I like hand filling . I think that once learned ,it gives better results ,much like sharpening knives. This is all just one man's opinion ,so YMMV.
John
 
Beyond that - the little hand crank deal looks really nice and is very well built for a decent price. Not sure what it is called but a search here will turn up some discussion.

Timberline by any chance ? I've had one for a couple of years now. It does a very nice job for certain . You just have to get accustomed to setting it up properly ,never get in a rush to get a chain done ,and never ever turn the handle backwards with the cutter in the chain . That last thing I mentioned only takes once and $20 to learn btw ! ;em
 
Why not learn to sharpen by hand? A quick touch up between gas and oil fillups will never leave you dull.

If you let it go until it's dull it's harder to put a nice edge on it. I have a heck of a time getting an edge on the saw of an old farmer I know. He can't see the chain well enough to sharpen it and will run until it's flat out dull. I swear he buries it in the dirt. Every time I leave he has a sharp chain though.
 
Be sure to get some kind of vice to put your bar in. You can really lean on the teeth with a handfile and get a good cut.
 
I am pretty partial to grinders for getting angles perfect. I'll sharpen 3-4 times by hand then grind. The one of the left, (Tecomec) is for rakers. The Oregon, (also made by Tecomec) has a magnet behind the vice to catch metal filings.


Here are mine.

2ik64qx.jpg


dcwx95.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: D8Chumley
Last summer I bought some diamond sharpening bits for my Dremel tool on eBay and they worked good. They only cost $10 for 5 of them and they hold up for quite a few uses. I touch up my chain often and it doesn't take but a few minutes to do it then.
 
I am pretty partial to grinders for getting angles perfect. I'll sharpen 3-4 times by hand then grind. The one of the left, (Tecomec) is for rakers. The Oregon, (also made by Tecomec) has a magnet behind the vice to catch metal filings.


Here are mine.

2ik64qx.jpg


dcwx95.jpg
you pull the shoe laces, not the handles?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.