Back Puffing

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This time the back puff started around 1300*.
Ray a hybrid would be nice but at this time I not have that kind of money to put on one.
Just got in from a Buck dealer and he say the cats stove are for up north. He said a non cat stove is better down here. But the Buck 94NC is $2800.
There is a Quadra Fire 3100 on CL for $600 it is from 2004. Is this a good deal? http://charlotte.craigslist.org/hsh/4225411457.html I know it is a 6" flue don't sure how that will work. The Buck said I can go up in size not down.
 
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This time the back puff started around 1300*.
Ray a hybrid would be nice but at this time I not have that kind of money to put on one.
Just got in from a Buck dealer and he say the cats stove are for up north. He said a non cat stove is better down here. But the Buck 94NC is $2800.
There is a Quadra Fire 3100 on CL for $600 it is from 2004. Is this a good deal? http://charlotte.craigslist.org/hsh/4225411457.html I know it is a 6" flue don't sure how that will work. The Buck said I can go up in size not down.
This time I have to agree with your dealer.. The colder the air the better your draft will be.. That stove looks to be in decent shape and should give an easy 8-10 hr. burn but I would go with a 6" flue or you will have more draft problems.. DIY liners aren't that expensive if you're handy and adding an insulating blanket to the liner will enhance the draft too.. Secondary burn stoves have a much hotter flue than cat stoves and this will probably work best for you.. Take a look at the stove and look for warping as that would indicate overfire.. Bricks are inexpensive but they look good in that pic.. Keep us posted!

Ray
 
This time the back puff started around 1300*.
Ray a hybrid would be nice but at this time I not have that kind of money to put on one.
Just got in from a Buck dealer and he say the cats stove are for up north. He said a non cat stove is better down here. But the Buck 94NC is $2800.
There is a Quadra Fire 3100 on CL for $600 it is from 2004. Is this a good deal? http://charlotte.craigslist.org/hsh/4225411457.html I know it is a 6" flue don't sure how that will work. The Buck said I can go up in size not down.
http://www.quadrafire.com/Products/3100-Millennium-Wood-Stove.aspx

Great specs and that looks like a great price Stan! Check out the MSRP at that link.. They still make that model too!

Ray
 
The Buck 94 has gotten mixed reviews here....I'm trying to think of some other 8" stoves....
 
But your sq. footage isn't that huge, is it? An 8" non-cat, Equinox e.g. would roast you outta there. You damn near gotta switch to 6" chimney to get the right size stove in there. :(
 
But your sq. footage isn't that huge, is it? An 8" non-cat, Equinox e.g. would roast you outta there. You damn near gotta switch to 6" chimney to get the right size stove in there. :(
The CL $600.00 stove would be a good fit as long as the stove is in good shape which it appears to be the case in the pic.. Long as it hasn't been abused that's a good value.. Stan will probably need to go with a 6" liner as most 8" stoves would be too big..

Ray
 
Woody, I have 1500sq ft to heat. I know I have to go 6". I hope I can put a 6" liner in the 8" chimney. But until then I would like to just go 6" stovepipe to 8" Chimney.
 
I had not previously seen your location, SC. My previous backpuffing troubles were definitely temperature related, only occurring at outside temps above 40F. I always just assume everyone here is in a cold climate, and this could definitely be a factor, when combined with your short chimney.

I ran a little experiment over the last week, which I think might be of interest, in this thread. Some may remember me complaining a week ago, that I had burned up all the dry wood stacked near the house, and I had to go move another cord from my wood lot up to the house. What had been left at the house in the days prior to that was stuff that had been split too big to dry in the time I had for seasoning, and so it was large splits with moisture trapped in the middle. My last two loads thru my stove on the shorter chimney had been smouldering messes, and had thoroughly clogged my catalytic combuster on that particular stove. That stove was left cold all week, as I was busy with work, and figured I'd get around to cleaning it out and firing it back up this weekend.

Well, rather than pull it out and clean out the creo that was clogging the cat (no fun, anyway), I decided I'd try to burn it clean. I loaded the stove yesterday with a medium load of nicely dry walnut, medium to smaller splits. I got it going furiously, with stove top temp = 600F and single wall flue temp at 650F, before closing the bypass. The fire died out, and then the stove started back-puffing. Stove top temp quickly dropped to 450F and flue temp to 200F (or less?). I subsequently went back to bypass, got the stove and flue heated up again, and then closed the bypass. This time, the fire took a few minutes longer to die out, and then I started getting smoke gently flowing out of every crevice (air control, intake, etc.). One more cycle like this, and I eventually got the cat up to 550F. Just a minute or two later, the cat temp shot up to 1500F (indicated it was finally burning clean the creo it had been coated with the wet load the prior week), before settling back down around 900F. I only had three nicely dry small/medium splits in the stove, and 900F is a normal cruising temp for that size load.

So, I was able to generate all of the same symptoms as AppalachianStan, by simply running a clogged cat. What was of more interest to me is that one can (with some effort and pain) burn clean a completely creo-clogged cat. I don't think the same could be done with an ash-clogged cat.
 
Joful, I get the back puff on eco- block too. The cats will be glowing red no fire in the firebox then a fireball at the top of the firebox and out come smoke. I now have 18' of flue. I just can not run this stove at night with this back puffing going on. I do not want to kill us as we sleepy. I have a co alarm. My wood is 15 to 19%. I will get it up to 900* close it down the temp will go down to 800*. It will run at 800* for a hour or 2 then the temps will start to go up. as the cats get hotter and starts to glow it starts to back puff. I have tried closing it down at 600*, 700*, 800* and 900* on start up and on re load but it will back puff.
 
I am tired of put money and time in this wood stove. I would like to fix the problem with it but I don't know what do to do to fix it. I am at $2000 in this stove set up. If I go with a newer one it will cost me more money. I know that with BK they say to use DW stovepipe to maintain the flue temps. I can get it up to 300* on the stovepipe but it will drop down to 200* when I close down. The only Thing I know to do is to get the newer set up.
 
I am tired of put money and time in this wood stove. I would like to fix the problem with it but I don't know what do to do to fix it. I am at $2000 in this stove set up. If I go with a newer one it will cost me more money. I know that with BK they say to use DW stovepipe to maintain the flue temps. I can get it up to 300* on the stovepipe but it will drop down to 200* when I close down. The only Thing I know to do is to get the newer set up.
Stan what about that CL stove you posted for only $600.00? That would be perfect for you..
 
Ray if he still has it in 2 weeks from now I will go look at it and if it looks good I will get it then.
 
Ray if he still has it in 2 weeks from now I will go look at it and if it looks good I will get it then.
I'd look now if interested then place a binder on it if I wanted it otherwise you might miss the boat..
 
The old Appalachian is cooking tonight. Cat probe is at 1500*, stove pipe is at 250* and stove top is at 500. Every time the wind picks up to cat probe go up to 1500*. It is down to 1450*. I am glad I did not load it up. there are 3 eco-block and 4 small splits in there. Put this load in at 8:00 pm tonight house is nice and warm at 75* with the wind chill is going to get down to 15* tonight. Prime air is closed all the way but can't close the by-pass. The by-pass is closed to a 1/4 if I close it all the way it back puff. This may be a long night need to go to bed but I would like to see the stove cool down a little be for I do. Just let you all know how things are going. No advice need it. Have to run this old girl until I can get the money up for a newer stove.
 
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Cat probe temps are down to 1200*. All good and good night Hearth Room. I love this site. This is like FB to me.
 
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Your last two posts sound like many of my late-night posts from last year. You'll get thru this.

Are you familiar with Craig2Mail, or any of the other Craigslist watch utilities? You might want to set some local watches up for wood stoves, so you don't miss a good deal when it comes along.
 
Joful I don't have a smart phone. I will check in to them. Thanks
 
The bypass on my 52 closes all the way. No gap at all.
 
Ok I was just looking at your review thread on the 52 and on the picture of the 8 inch opening I noticed about 1/4 inch of the bypass rod touching the back of the damper housing. I might have to check mine again. I could have spoke too soon.
 
all the way mellow. If I open about a 1/4" there is about a 1/8" gap between the damper plant and the housing.
 
Its been cold here but this coming Monday and Tuesday is going to get really cold here with 9* on Monday and 15* on Tuesday. But the wind chill is going to put us at -1* on Monday night. I don't know how my old stove will do with those temps. I will try and pack it fill tomorrow to see how it will do.
Mellow, How close to the damper housing to you pack your wood?
 
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Thanks Mellow.
 
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