Boiler still not working Help!

My 40

Have you tried running the fun with a separate power supply to make sure it works? Have a voltmeter to check the leads to make sure you have the proper ones connected?

mr.fixit said:

My 40View attachment 122904

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Green/ yellow is ground to the frame screw, both the wire from the control and motor combine onto the ground screw.m

Brown and blue are typical Euro colors, we use black and white normally for 120V.

Here is how my 6 year old EKO 40 is wired, should be the same for yours I think. Green/ yellow to ground screw

Brown #7 from control to black motor wire and capacitor
Blue #8 from control to blue to motor wire
Black from motor to capacitor

Rugar said:

I get a slight voltage readout from the rk2001 controller on the neutral (blue) wire. The brown wire ( hot) does give variable voltage based on how fan is set. 50%=90v, 100%=118v exct. Does this mean I need a new controller or is there something to check.

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When your're measuring a voltage on the controller blue wire, and when you're measuring a voltage on the controller brown wire, what is it that the other lead of the voltmeter is connected to?

If you suspect the controller blue wire is not providing a neutral path, can you run an independent neutral wire in its place from elsewhere to see if the blue wire is the problem?

I would get a new controller! Even if it is not the problem you will have a spare. My first controller never lasted a year.
Also you will know if its the problem or not.

huff.

([Edit:] Backing up a bit, first of all when the controller is supposed to be running the fan you should of course see voltage across the neutral and hot wire going to the motor. If you're seeing voltage from the hot wire to the boiler chassis then you should see the same voltage going from the hot wire to the neutral wire. The discussion below assumes you do not see see a voltage going from the hot wire to the fan neutral wire.)

Rugar said:

Are you saying I could run a neutral from something like the same circuit the controller is plugged into.

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You could, but it shouldn't have to come to that. First I would pull the fuse, then remove input power/pump/fan power cover. Inspect to be sure the blue fan neutral wire is properly attached to the N fan terminal. If it is, with the fuse still removed, ohm out all the N terminals. They should all be electrically identical since all the N terminals are connected to the same trace on the rear vertical circuit board.

Be aware that the incoming L terminal will be hot the whole time with fuse in or out. You may prefer to kill the circuit to the controller and then verify there is no voltage across the incoming N and L terminals.

If there is not conductivity between the incoming N terminal and the fan terminal, then most likely the trace on the circuit board got smoked along the way. If you're confident you know why the trace got smoked the you can simply jumper from the incoming N terminal over to the fan N terminal (or simply move the fan blue wire over to the incoming N terminal) and go on about your business.

There are no diodes involved in the neutral wiring of the fan or pump circuits.

If all it is is a burned out trace on the circuit board you can just re-wire as described above.



As you can see in the last photo there's just a trace from the incoming N terminal over to the two other N terminals. All you need to do is bypass the smoked trace by using a jumper from the incoming N terminal to the fan N terminal, or by simply wiring the fan neutral directly to the incoming N terminal.

(White wiring to the right of each N terminal is chassis ground, looks like they came up with something more substantial for that purpose.)

(RK 2001 controllers from P W Key don't need any "special circumstances" to provoke failure.)

ewdudley said:

If all it is is a burned out trace on the circuit board you can just re-wire as described above.

View attachment 123755 View attachment 123756 View attachment 123757

As you can see in the last photo there's just a trace from the incoming N terminal over to the two other N terminals. All you need to do is bypass the smoked trace by using a jumper from the incoming N terminal to the fan N terminal, or by simply wiring the fan neutral directly to the incoming N terminal.

(White wiring to the right of each N terminal is chassis ground, looks like they came up with something more substantial for that purpose.)

(RK 2001 controllers from P W Key don't need any " special circumstances" to provoke failure.)

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Eliott are referring to the illuminated bus behind the hotwire? Thanx for the wiring lesson , as I own an EKO this could come in handy at some time in the future.

Huff

huffdawg said:

Eliott are referring to the illuminated bus behind the hotwire? Thanx for the wiring lesson , as I own an EKO this could come in handy at some time in the future.

Huff

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Incoming hot 'L' terminal is on the left (looking from the inside) and trace goes over to fuse.

Incoming neutral terminal is next one to the right. The neutral trace goes up across the top and down to the pump N terminal and the fan N terminal.

Incoming chassis ground is the next one to the right of the neutral. There's a wire that goes to the pump ground terminal, and from there another piece of wire that goes over to the fan ground terminal.



Same nine terminals from other side:

Ok got it. Guys like you are a huge benefit to the Boiler Room. I appreciate the time you take to teach others.

Huff