Englander corner install question?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

btbeam

New Member
Dec 19, 2013
61
New Jersey
I am interested in an Englander stove. I am looking at the new IP ,PAH or the EP. Is there anyone that can help me decide between the three. I life in a 2200sq bilevel type home. My house is two two story homes put together offset my 1/2 story, if that makes any sense. So I have one level underground I want to put the stove on the next level up and attempt to heat the 3 other floors? So I need pretty good heat output and be able to move some air.

The install question is I want to do a corner install and vent it out over my deck. I don't really have a lot of options with that as my deck wraps around my house. I would like to come out of the stove with a cleanout tee, go up aprox 6 feet to an elbow then exit the house to another elbow then up another 2 feet to the termination point. Will that work Ok and am I hurting performance with a vent setup such as that? The OAK can just go right out of the house.
Thanks in advance for your help this is all very new to me.
 
If it were me, I would personally go with the IP or PAH if you are going to try and heat that area. Also, I would definitely go with 4" vent pipe so you don't have any burn issues.
 
  • Like
Reactions: stoveguy2esw
If it were me, I would personally go with the IP or PAH if you are going to try and heat that area. Also, I would definitely go with 4" vent pipe so you don't have any burn issues.

What is the reasoning behind the 4" pipe? Is that because of the extra elbow? Is it 3 out of the stove? Where would I change the size? thanks for the help i know I ask a lot of questions
 
Looking at what you posted, just with the 3-90* your EVL is already at the max of 15 for 3" pipe. With the vertical and horizontal sections you are at a total of approximately 20......
 
Where would I change the size?
Ideally as early as possible. There are appliance adapters that would mount a 4" Tee to your stove, or there are also increaser tees that change to 4" on the vertical leg. Duravent has a combined adapter/tee that can do both jobs in a single piece. That's what I have and it worked out fine.
 
So your venting is this, I added EVL numbers in bold:
I would like to come out of the stove with a cleanout tee(5) , go up aprox 6 feet(3) to an elbow(5) then exit the house to another elbow(5) then up another 2 feet(2) to the termination point.

So that's 5+3+5+5+2=20' EVL, as slvrblkk said. That's over the 15 that normally means you go to 4" pipe. You might need another short bit of horizontal pipe between the elbows where it goes through the wall.
I'm assuming you're planning on a vertical termination. If you did a horizontal to get it away from the house you'd have another elbow in there for 25' total EVL.

Am I missing something there?
 
I am interested in an Englander stove. I am looking at the new IP ,PAH or the EP. Is there anyone that can help me decide between the three. I life in a 2200sq bilevel type home. My house is two two story homes put together offset my 1/2 story, if that makes any sense. So I have one level underground I want to put the stove on the next level up and attempt to heat the 3 other floors? So I need pretty good heat output and be able to move some air.

The install question is I want to do a corner install and vent it out over my deck. I don't really have a lot of options with that as my deck wraps around my house. I would like to come out of the stove with a cleanout tee, go up aprox 6 feet to an elbow then exit the house to another elbow then up another 2 feet to the termination point. Will that work Ok and am I hurting performance with a vent setup such as that? The OAK can just go right out of the house.
Thanks in advance for your help this is all very new to me.

I'll let others work out your venting as I'm new to pellet stoves myself but not new to solid fuel heat. That said, it's mighty tough to send heat down stairs. If I'm reading your post correctly it sounds like 1/3 of what you are trying to heat is on a lower level than the stove will reside at ? Even if the floor plan is somewhat open that's a tough place to try and heat that lowest level from... Heat rises, cold falls

If I'm wrong just ignore the post.
 
I'll let others work out your venting as I'm new to pellet stoves myself but not new to solid fuel heat. That said, it's mighty tough to send heat down stairs. If I'm reading your post correctly it sounds like 1/3 of what you are trying to heat is on a lower level than the stove will reside at ? Even if the floor plan is somewhat open that's a tough place to try and heat that lowest level from... Heat rises, cold falls

If I'm wrong just ignore the post.

I am only trying to heat up. The level thats lower is unfinished basement.
 
I just installed the 25-IP (see profile pic) in a corner. I had a 3"->4" stove adapter, into a 4" 45, out through the wall and then into a 5' stack made up of 4" pipe. My installation was at 7500' of elevation, so the 4" pipe was a no-brainer for me, but the gist of it is the 4" pipe will help with some of the complexities of your installation and help the stove draft properly.

I'd say the 25-IP is a heck of a stove - my only problem with it is that I've got it installed in a 1400 sq ft house so I honestly haven't gotten the stove out of "1" on the heat range (1-9 scale) and it's keeping the house at 72F without even trying. I liked the look of this stove and really appreciate the big bay doors on the sides/front which make things very accessible. My home in the mountains has a Harman Advance which I love as well (5 years old now and only had a couple bad igniters), but it's a bear to work on if you need to replace parts due to how tightly components are packed into the chassis and all the panels you have to remove to get at them.

Good luck!

Chris
 
You missed something in the discussion on venting .... clearances on wrap around decking. Have you talked with local inspectors and insurance company on what is acceptable for install?
 
It'll be absolutely fine with 4" pipe, I prefer it actually. You also won't have to clean it as often.
 
You missed something in the discussion on venting .... clearances on wrap around decking. Have you talked with local inspectors and insurance company on what is acceptable for install?

All the powers that be say as long as I am at least 7ft above the combustable surface I am fine I will be about 10'
 
One consideration I have seen mentioned is ease of repairs (or lack of) with corner installs. Some have suggested they should have left more room from the corner than the minimum clearances. Something to consider before...
 
One consideration I have seen mentioned is ease of repairs (or lack of) with corner installs. Some have suggested they should have left more room from the corner than the minimum clearances. Something to consider before...

Yeah I am going to leave it out a little so I can get back there easier.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.