Decisions on a big stove in Maine

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mama_jess

New Member
Jan 13, 2014
3
Central Maine
Hi everyone - I'm glad to have found this forum, with what seems to be a lot of very educated wood-burners on it! I've been lurking here for a bit, and have found oodles of info, but I'm hoping to get more specific advice about my hunt for a new stove.

Excuse the length, but I figure the more info I put down, the better you'll understand my particular situation. And I like to talk...

My situation: my husband and I bought this house a year and a half ago, just outside of Augusta, Maine. It's a 220-year-old farmhouse with some draftiness issues, though it does have new-ish double-pane windows throughout. I'm planning to add insulation to the basement sills and attic crawlspaces this year, which should help. We've got two woodstoves, one in the kitchen which is an Ashley - we use it on colder days to get the kitchen comfortable, because that room is less open to the rest of the house, and the floor is over a crawlspace and quite cold. Our main source of heat (which you can see in my avatar) is an old Dovre. It used to be a catalytic, but that's all burned out and destroyed (happened before we inherited it) - not sure if you can even get parts for this thing anymore. The grate that the fire sits on has a big ol' hole in the middle of it, so the fire ends up burning half in the ashpan. Nevertheless, we have heated our house almost completely with this sad broken thing for going on 2 winters now (and this latest one has been a doozy so far).

The house is about 2000 square feet, and the layout, while not really open, is better than a lot of these old houses here in Maine. The living room (where the stove is) and the dining room have been opened up into one space with a half-wall between them (a built in shelf with space for the TV and stereo), and the stairs go up from the dining room into an open alcove space that the 3 bedrooms are situated around. We've done alright keeping it pretty warm in here (70's in the LR/DR, mid 60s in the rest of the house), but we went through 6.5 cords last year and are on-track to do the same or more this winter. Better than oil, but I'm hoping that with a new stove and some insulation we can do a lot better.

What I'm looking for:

I want a non-CAT stove (I like simple technology that doesn't require a lot of upkeep and replacement parts, and I don't need 30 hour burn times) that is well-built, easy to maintain, with minimal costs for upkeep, that I can use as my primary heat in a cold climate. I've been looking at larger capacity fireboxes (3 cubic feet or more), though in the shoulder seasons I will be burning smaller fires in it. I'd like to get at least 8 or 9 hours of burn time, though 10 or 12 would be awesome. I don't think I'll need to worry about my clearances - if you can see in my avatar, my brick "hearth" is pretty darn roomy.

I went to two local stove shops today, just as a first pass to see what was available. At the first, the salesperson steered me toward the Pacific Energy Summit, and at the second, the Regency (don't remember which model, but the biggest non-Cat). I'm leaning toward the PE - any thoughts on the Extended Burn Technology?

My husband, who's a romantic, is pushing for a cast-iron stove, or perhaps the PE Alderea T6. My only worry with an iron-clad stove is hearing complaints that it doesn't put off enough radiant heat. It is a very pretty stove, as compared to the plainer steel stoves, but I'd rather sacrifice beauty for utility. This thing is going to heat my house, and fire looks pretty in any box, as far as I'm concerned.

A couple of other thoughts...I'm used to having a side door now, and very seldom use the front door on this stove - am I going to miss having a side door?

What about adding thermal mass around a stove? Anyone here try this? My hearth runs over a middle foundation wall in the cellar, so I think I have some leeway to add some serious weight if I want to, but I wonder how effective it might be (like a pseudo-masonry stove for cheap), or if it would negatively affect the performance of the stove (or, god forbid, the stove itself).

Anyway, I'm sure I'll have more questions, but that should get you started. Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.
 
Welcome mama_jess. Your sales person is steering you in a good direction for non-cat. We have the Alderlea T6 if you have any questions. It is definitely less radiant than others if that is an issue, but it is a strong convective heater. I would recommend you look at another Dovre stove if you want strongly radiant. It's currently sold as the Quadrafire Isle Royale and is an excellent stove with a long history of reliable service.

What does the model plate on the back of your Dovre list as the exact model number? Is it a 300H or 300C?
 
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It's a Dovre 500 cc.

Another question - with a stove that is more convective, how important is the blower? I'll probably buy one, but I'm not a fan of being dependent on electricity for my stove to operate well. Would a more radiant stove be better, say if the electricity went out for a few days as it did at Christmas this year? Would the Summit work better in this approach?
 
We run our stove about 80% of the time without the blower. It does fine during power outages, but if it's cold outside, rooms that are around the corner and with a doorway are going to be naturally cooler. A convective stove with a blower will do a better job of mixing the air in the house than a purely radiant stove will. But note that you can get some radiant stoves with a blower to help it convect too. The blower helps circulate the house heat overall. We have almost 10ft ceilings which trap heat in the upper foot or two due to 8' high openings to the hallway and dining/kitchen area. The blower helps move the air in the room and reduces this stratification. It's not a necessity, but can be a nicety.

All this depends on the house. Some are easier than others to heat. And it depend on the people. Some folks want the searing direct heat of a stove and like the room hot. Others don't or they have nearby furniture, etc. and need closer clearances.
 
Welcome to the forum. I installed a PE T6 in September and have been very happy with it! I have not installed the blower yet so I can contest that this beast will heat in a power outage. I am heating about 2500 square feet (late 70's built house) with a lot of windows and a semi open floor plan. This is my 4th wood stove (all in different houses) and the best I have ever owned and operated. I think the baffle system for secondary burning is a great design for durability and cleaning. This stove is simple and a solid piece of craftsmanship that puts out the heat!


I'll be excited to see what you choose.
 
Thanks, guys! I am leaning towards PE, but a couple of things I'm worried about:

Only 18" to 20" inch logs? Well, once I get through the wood I have, I guess I'll have my firewood guy deliver some shorter stuff for next season. I like long logs :)

No side door? Am I going to miss this? Now, the Summit/T6 can be loaded North/South, is the depth as big as the width for log length?...will that deal with my fears of only having a front door? And more importantly, the hubby's fears (everybody on this forum is always talking about what the wife wants...I think in this case our traditional gender roles are reversed. I'm a lot more comfortable and have more experience with wood burning than my man). Are there steel stoves in this class with front and side doors? All I seem to find are cast-iron...

Are there forum members with these stoves from Maine, or a similar climate, who'd like to chime in? I don't mean that your advice hasn't been really helpful, but Washington doesn't have the kind of cold I deal with regularly. I'm generally going to see a few weeks at least with temperatures in the negative 10 degree range, and even colder sometimes.

Oh, and now I'm all used to a firebox with a grated bottom, open to the ashpan underneath. I find with the air coming up from under, it's super-easy to build fires. How frustrated is my husband going to be building directly on firebrick?
 
Howdy from a fellow Mainer!. You may also want to check out the Jotul F55 which is built right here in Maine. I think the firebox is right around 3 cubic feet. It's easy to maintain with just one gasket (front load door, no ash pan). We consistently get 10+ hours from a burn when the firebox is fully loaded at night. If I load it up at 8:30 p.m., I have enough hot coals to start it again at 6:30 a.m. the next morning. The F55 is a steel stove with cast iron side panels and top, so it's the best of both worlds.
 
Howdy from a fellow Mainer!. You may also want to check out the Jotul F55 which is built right here in Maine. I think the firebox is right around 3 cubic feet. It's easy to maintain with just one gasket (front load door, no ash pan). We consistently get 10+ hours from a burn when the firebox is fully loaded at night. If I load it up at 8:30 p.m., I have enough hot coals to start it again at 6:30 a.m. the next morning. The F55 is a steel stove with cast iron side panels and top, so it's the best of both worlds.
Another Mainer here with the F55. I think the stove is about as simple as it gets, although I do miss having an ash drawer. You could get the F50 if the ash pan was important to you, but then it adds additional gaskets and top loading door that seems somewhat small and unesable. In any case, take a look at the F55. Steel interior and clad in cast iron. Great stove so far for us.
 
Thanks, guys! I am leaning towards PE, but a couple of things I'm worried about:

Only 18" to 20" inch logs? Well, once I get through the wood I have, I guess I'll have my firewood guy deliver some shorter stuff for next season. I like long logs :)

No side door? Am I going to miss this? Now, the Summit/T6 can be loaded North/South, is the depth as big as the width for log length?...will that deal with my fears of only having a front door? And more importantly, the hubby's fears (everybody on this forum is always talking about what the wife wants...I think in this case our traditional gender roles are reversed. I'm a lot more comfortable and have more experience with wood burning than my man). Are there steel stoves in this class with front and side doors? All I seem to find are cast-iron...

Are there forum members with these stoves from Maine, or a similar climate, who'd like to chime in? I don't mean that your advice hasn't been really helpful, but Washington doesn't have the kind of cold I deal with regularly. I'm generally going to see a few weeks at least with temperatures in the negative 10 degree range, and even colder sometimes.

Oh, and now I'm all used to a firebox with a grated bottom, open to the ashpan underneath. I find with the air coming up from under, it's super-easy to build fires. How frustrated is my husband going to be building directly on firebrick?

1. Firebox is ~ square on the t6 so n/s or e/w it does not matter. 99% time I burn N/S - the wood burns better IMHO, long shoulder season burns I may do e/w
2. With a decent chimney/draft - you will not need to worry about starting fires. Typically, after ~ 8-10 hrs, there is enough coals remaining to restart the fire without any problems -- as long as the wood is dry and seasoned.
3. No problem loading a 3 cuft T6 via the front, the door opening is spacious. Side door stoves, you will need to have or design the hearth for both the front and side clearances.
4. Fan - we went one season without, and added it (2 screws) the second season, fan is on 24/7 except the shoulder season, 3300 sq ft of cathedral ceiling and way too many sliding glass doors (6) and huge windows
 
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