Sooteater first impressions

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freddypd

Burning Hunk
Jan 3, 2012
133
Long Island NY
I figure I would take advantage of the nice weather we are having here in NY and clean out the fireplace and the chimney.

I had the chimney professionally cleaned at the end of the season, but I had already bought this in April:
Gardus Sooteater.

This was my first time cleaning my own chimney and using this product. I really liked it. It went together easy and came apart fairly easy. This is my 2nd season burning wood and the wood is probably not totally dry...but it is better than last season. Here is the pile I got out.
small1.jpg

When I was removing the rods I broke the last one. The directions say not to bend the rods too much but that is practically impossible. The opening is in the back and you have to bend it somewhat. I will contact the company but it only has a 90 day warranty. I can't believe that a rod would break on the 1st usage.
small2.jpg
 
Maybe it is just defective. They recommend keeping the position of the drill as low as possible to soften that 90deg turn up the flue. I had my drill almost touching the floor.
 
I also have an insert so I have the same issue with a 90 degree turn up the flue. I keep the drill just off the floor and always have at least 1 rod below the flue just to make the bend. I've used mine 3 times with no problems.

It's a great product.
 
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I have used mine 2 times and haven't had any complaints. I can't tell in your pictures but my insert is also about 10" off the floor because of the raised hearth. But I also don't keep the drill on the floor.
 
Huge fan of the SootEater. great product. makes DIY so easy when you dont want to or cant get on the roof. save a few hundred bucks/year as well in the process by not hiring out.
 
When I was removing the rods I broke the last one. The directions say not to bend the rods too much but that is practically impossible. The opening is in the back and you have to bend it somewhat. I will contact the company but it only has a 90 day warranty. I can't believe that a rod would break on the 1st usage.
I thought the MAIN selling point (advantage) of the SootEater was the fact that it CAN be bent??:confused:
 
I thought the MAIN selling point (advantage) of the SootEater was the fact that it CAN be bent??:confused:

You can bend it, just not in half. Mine gets flexed pretty good, no problems.
 
You can bend it, just not in half. Mine gets flexed pretty good, no problems.
Wouldn't ever see a need to bend it "in half".
But I am certain a 90 degree bend would be fairly common in a flue system. If the product can't handle a 90, then it would be useless to a lot of applications. (not all of course).
 
Wouldn't ever see a need to bend it "in half".
But I am certain a 90 degree bend would be fairly common in a flue system. If the product can't handle a 90, then it would be useless to a lot of applications. (not all of course).

I think the main advantage, to me at least is that you can do the sweep yourself from the bottom. I flex mine to probably 110-120 degrees over 2-3 rods. As others said you do what you can to minimize the flex. If you truly had to go 90 with a single rod you might have an issue.

You're right though, in some setups you may have to pull some pipe but I guess you would have to do that with a conventional brush too.
 
I've used the sooteater twice and it does work well, but my sweep strings already look worn down. I use on ~18' of 6" metalbestos. All straight pipe too.
 
I've used the sooteater twice and it does work well, but my sweep strings already look worn down. I use on ~18' of 6" metalbestos. All straight pipe too.

You can buy replacement strings pretty cheap and they aren't that difficult to change. And if you do it right you should be able to get two complete sets out of one package. I did for my 6" pipe.
 
You can buy replacement strings pretty cheap and they aren't that difficult to change. And if you do it right you should be able to get two complete sets out of one package. I did for my 6" pipe.
yes, but still, two uses and I have to buy new ones?
 
Mine are looking pretty worn. They still seem to clean just fine. I just give it a few up/down passes so it has time to bounce around and knock everything off.

When I do replace them, I have a huge roll of weed-eater string I'll use.
 
Mine are looking pretty worn. They still seem to clean just fine. I just give it a few up/down passes so it has time to bounce around and knock everything off.

When I do replace them, I have a huge roll of weed-eater string I'll use.

I've heard of this, but weed wacker string is much thinner than the original
 
How do you guys keep from making a mess in the house when doing bottom up cleaning? Do you seal off the stove with plastic sheeting? I've always used mine from top down since my chimney was fairly easy to access.
 
How do you guys keep from making a mess in the house when doing bottom up cleaning? Do you seal off the stove with plastic sheeting? I've always used mine from top down since my chimney was fairly easy to access.
It's not easy. I'll end up taping a plastic grocery bag around the pipe then poke a small hole through the side for the shaft to slide into. I'll then start with one extension and proceed to clean up/down for several passes then add the next etension and repeat. Keep adding extensions till you're at the top. Remove one at a time as you start to come down from the top. Some soot is going to come out around the bag, but most is caught. I have to remember to wear a dust make and goggles next time.
 
That's pretty much how I do it, just from the top down. I notice that as the rods spin, they make the hole in the bag grow. I can just see it being messy at the bottom.
 
yes, but still, two uses and I have to buy new ones?

Never meant to imply that. Just stating that you could buy new strings pretty cheap, and get two sets out of em. The strings get a bit beat up, but still work.

How do you guys keep from making a mess in the house when doing bottom up cleaning? Do you seal off the stove with plastic sheeting? I've always used mine from top down since my chimney was fairly easy to access.

Each application will be different, but I posted this thread the other day about how I did it. Very clean this way. I didn't like the trash bag because it kept wrapping around the rods.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/tip-to-aid-bottom-up-sooteater-cleaning.121926/
 
I have used mine for three cleanings now. The second time, I broke one rod. The instructions say to keep it moving up and down whilst spinning. I was holding the rod in place with gloved hand, and stopped the up-and-down motion for a moment, and it broke right where I was holding it. The rod was bent less than 90 degrees, so after that I was always careful to stop the drill before pausing the up-and-down motion even briefly. They include that caution in the instructions for a reason.

My chimney is 6" double-wall SS, installed inside the chase left by the 150 y.o. interior masonry chimney that I completely took down because the bricks were crumbling and turning back to clay dust. The chase is closed off from the rooms of the house, so I don't worry too much about creosote and soot dust. I found the piece of plastic sheet totally useless, and just ran the thing without it, with a pan at the bottom to catch most of the soot as it fell out. But I quickly noticed a problem and immediately stopped the drill and pulled out the Sooteater. The sharp edge of the inner wall at the bottom the insulated tee, right where the cap fits, was cutting into the black plastic jacket on the Sooteater rod. If I had not stopped when I did, it would have completely chewed up the jacket. I don't think the plastic sheet would have helped in the slightest to keep the spinning rod away from that sharp edge.

Here's my solution: I cut out a round disc the same size as the insulated tee cap from a piece of 1/2" plywood. I cut an oval shaped hole in the plywood, offset towards one side of the disc, but far enough away from the sharp edge to assure that the rod could not come in contact with it. Using a rasp, I rounded off the sharp edges on the plywood all way round the perimeter of the hole. I fabricated a bracket to hold the disc in place, taking advantage of two holes that the manufacturer had drilled in the support plate, which allows me to screw it in place. I connect one rod to the brush, slide the wooden disc over the rod and then insert the disc into the tee, where the tee cap goes and secure it with the bracket. That keeps the rod more or less centred at the exit from the bottom of the tee, and away from that sharp edge. After multiple uses, about the only thing the plywood has done to the plastic jacket on the rods is to dull the sheen; I can see no gouges or other damage. The wooden disc also contains most of the fallen soot and creosote inside the bottom of the tee, and most of what does filter down through the hole in the disc, falls directly into the pan I have placed below. When I remove the disc, the rest falls into the pan. I don't remove the disc from position until I am down to the last rod, the one attached to the brush.

I believe the red string the factory uses is nothing but red weedwacker string. I have a roll of the latter, and it appears to be exactly the same material the same diameter. I plan to use that whenever I finally have to replace the string on mine.

I don't like to climb up on my slippery metal roof, so I had a chimney sweep come at the end of second burning season to check out the chimney and cap, and he cleaned everything from top down. After he finished, I inspected the interior of the flue pipe, and it didn't look any cleaner than it does after I do it myself with the Sooteater, but at least I know the cap is clean. I don't worry so much about igniting creosote at the very top above the roof where the cap is attached, but I don't want the vent holes to get stopped up either.
 
Make sure you follow the directions to the letter. I think the trick is to keep it moving up and down. I am guessing I kept it spinning in one spot and it got cut on a sharp edge? Great product but rods should be more flexible.
 
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