Nc30 runnin HOT

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tjcole50

tjcole50

Minister of Fire
Oct 5, 2013
509
Ohio
Well as I wait for my moisture meter to arrive. I have been getting various types of burns off of some different loads. I have stacks of a few different types of wood , oak ,hickory, ash, and pine. Well sometimes I would get the nc30 goin good and sometimes it would stay far to low on temp scale. Jury is out wood is wet :). Bought some of that kild dried overpriced stuff at the store . I was cautious to how much I put in . Only added 4 small pieces and one good size this morning. House went from 66 to 70 in a very short time . I have also set a new personal temp record on my nc30 . This thing is an entirely different beast with dry wood :D
 

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Yup. We know the stove is capable of putting out some serious heat. FWIW, poorly seasoned wood is by far the most frequent issue we see here. Take some of the kiln dried wood and mix it in with your other wood. Pack the stove tightly and you should get a decent long fire.
 
I think I'll try some bio brick to mix in... Probably a cheaper option... If I can cut down useing my current wood I will have plenty for next winter and would guess it will be ready to burn next winter also. Moisture meter should be here soon. Need to get off my butt and get splitting /storing for next 2-3 years

Edit
What's with this magnetic thermo I don't think 700 is to Hot for the englander? Now I wouldn't like 800 but figure 650-700 be the ticket right?
 
When I can keep my 30 at 700 it heats the whole house nicely.

And yeah, she does love that dry wood.
 
The New Englander 30 can generate an enormous amount of heat because of the plate steel, baffle and secondary burning tubes. One needs to remember that you don't want the surface temperature too hot as to warp the steel plate which can happen. Now with the firebrick and the baffle, that helps to keep the steel from exceeding critical temperature, but an extremely hot fire will wreck your stove if the steel starts to warp. The stove manual should indicate what the proper operating temperatures should be to make your stove last and give you the necessary heat for the square footage you are trying to make comfortable.
 
tjcole50 said:
I think I'll try some bio brick to mix in... Probably a cheaper option... If I can cut down useing my current wood I will have plenty for next winter and would guess it will be ready to burn next winter also. Moisture meter should be here soon. Need to get off my butt and get splitting /storing for next 2-3 years

Edit
What's with this magnetic thermo I don't think 700 is to Hot for the englander? Now I wouldn't like 800 but figure 650-700 be the ticket right?
Click to expand...

Above 650 you're efficiency drops off but should be safe to 800 or if something glows. Most manufactures do not spec a max temp.
 
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tjcole50 said:
What's with this magnetic thermo I don't think 700 is to Hot for the englander? Now I wouldn't like 800 but figure 650-700 be the ticket right?
Click to expand...
700 ain't hurting that stove a bit. I think you are pretty much on target with your temps. Burn on brother. Hopefully going forward you will get your wood issues resolved.
 
Jags said:
700 ain't hurting that stove a bit. I think you are pretty much on target with your temps. Burn on brother. Hopefully going forward you will get your wood issues resolved.
Click to expand...
Yessir just a matter of getting ahead. No more splitting just enough for the old stove that would eat anything . This one needs the good stuff but it is worth it , with good wood the 30 puts a grin on my face. A good payoff after research , work, and money invested
 
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