Time to replace auger motor?

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misterpat

misterpat

Member
Nov 11, 2007
32
Lake Hopatcong, NJ
Hello all.

New to pellet stoves and picked up a used Magnum Countryside pellet stove. Everything works, but the auger motor seems a little loud to me. I took a video of it as it can show whats up with it more than words. If I can eliminate that noise, the stove will actually be pretty quite.



Thoughts?

Thanks for any reply's!
 
Keep the hopper full. The auger assembly is attached to the hopper and transfers the vibrations. Do a high fire with the damper full out to help keep the stoves back passages clear and the stove should be ok. Had a member with some ? Earlier this week. There is or was some isolation washers on the motor to plate. These motors if no jams last a long time.
 
Last edited:
You should here them when they try feeding a piece of cob, or when the stirrer starts chasing some clinkers.
 
Thanks for the reply's. I had the stove running in the garage. No fire in it, just bypassed the proof of fire and fan sensors. My son and I put pressure in and around the hopper to try and simulate a full hopper. The sound is unchanged. I think the bushings are shot in the electric motor. I removed the fan and I moved the shaft side to side. I can feel an ever so slight amount of side to side play. I was looking at new auger motors and the manual calls for a 4.7 rpm unit. Will a standard 4 rpm model work with a fan?
 
I ment overall noise of the stove,sorry,I am spoiled with my austroflamm.Do not know about motor rpms for that unit,hopefully someone will reply.
 
Thats a 15 percent reduction of output. The stoves board changes the speed of the exhaust fan as well as changing the auger timing. Probably going to have to bite the bullet and pay for the OEM.
 
misterpat said:
Thanks for the reply's. I had the stove running in the garage. No fire in it, just bypassed the proof of fire and fan sensors. My son and I put pressure in and around the hopper to try and simulate a full hopper. The sound is unchanged. I think the bushings are shot in the electric motor. I removed the fan and I moved the shaft side to side. I can feel an ever so slight amount of side to side play. I was looking at new auger motors and the manual calls for a 4.7 rpm unit. Will a standard 4 rpm model work with a fan?
Click to expand...

Yes, A standard 4 RPM will work, Usually they are not exactly 1 or 2 or 4 RPM, a 1 is 1.1 RPM etc.

Because of the auger chute design being straight out like a bottom feed, it is real easy on the auger motor. The stock motor is usually a less costly multi-products 4 RPM but not a ball bearing motor. A Hi Quality Ball Bearing Auger motor such as the Gleason-Avery motor is what I recommend. It is quieter and will last longer.
 
Sounds like metallic vibration transfer as others have stated.
 
Thanks for the reply's, everyone. I thought about it for a while and decided to just bite the bullet and buy OEM. While I was there, I ordered the higher cfm combustion fan. Here is a video of the old and new motors ran using my OSHA approved test cable. Old motor ran first.

 
Nice video, you can really tell the sound difference. Let us know if you see a feed rate difference. Looks to me like there is a rpm difference between the old and new one, the old one being a lot slower?

Too bad you are not closer, I have a mechanical shaft rpm meter.
 
I've been thinking of getting an optical rpm gauge. Adjusting small engines as Electrolux seems to set them for sea level and 70 plus degrees.
 
Planning on running that saw on the verge of melt down egh =)?
 
A lot of differance between 0 and 70 with O2. Toasted one last year when used in winter. Don't plan on doing that again with a better new one.
 
Bingo
 
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