2700k LED Bulb For 6" Can Lights in Kitchen

velvetfoot said:

Weird that when I'm pricing some units they're cheaper in Mass. and Vt. stores than in NY!

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The power companies / mass save is subsidizing the cost of these.

OP look into this model it's almost the same but is 62 lumens a watt http://www.homedepot.com/p/EcoSmart...LED-Downlight-ECO-575L/202240932?N=5yc1vZbm79

Looks like they made a cheaper version at the cost of energy savings


Gotta agree with highbeam stay away from commercial electric, it's garbage

I just installed 14 of these. The light output is fantastic compared to the CFLs I had. Only complaint is the mounting mechanism isn't very good....they were striving for a universal way and it just doesn't seal very well at the sheetrock. I think I'm going to look into some rapid setting glue and just put a bead of caulk around them. Not really looking forward to holding them in place while the glue sets though....anyone with a recommendation on fast drying glue? Like seconds rather than minutes.

seige101 said:

The power companies / mass save is subsidizing the cost of these.

OP look into this model it's almost the same but is 62 lumens a watt http://www.homedepot.com/p/EcoSmart...LED-Downlight-ECO-575L/202240932?N=5yc1vZbm79

Looks like they made a cheaper version at the cost of energy savings


Gotta agree with highbeam stay away from commercial electric, it's garbage

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Well, I didn't make that reference. And the install from these is certainly serviceable, but I'm adamant about air sealing and the slight gap that is there could be better had they gone with springs like I had there before. My wife thinks they look fine as is, but I'd like to get them as flush as possible and put a little sealant around them. If you walked in my house and looked at them, you wouldn't think anything of it. I have a mix of cans...some have metal wrapped around the sheetrock...these are very flush and I can just caulk them. The cans that are just above the sheet rock are the problems. It's not like they're falling out or there is a space bigger than a few eights of an inch. All that being said, I'd rather have those torsion ears or a spring vs these resistance arms. The other companies I look at seemed to have easier installs as well, though after getting the first one in and realizing the most efficient way to do, didn't take more than a few minutes per light.

velvetfoot said:

Glue? Any they're calling my purchase ghetto?

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Contact cement is likely the best option unless I want to stand on a chair and hold those things in place...which I don't.

Just picked up some DAP contact cement from the hardware store and used it on the few cans that needed it. Worked well. I had completely forgotten about this stuff until you mentioned it. Remember using it in grade school art class. Only put a small amount on two spots in the event I need to take them down at some point there will be minimal damage. Now to caulk.

velvetfoot said:

No problem. We make our choices and have to live with them. It's not like we're going to be replacing them, again, just for kicks, anytime soon.

You want something that goes on thin as well. The polyurethane Gorilla Glue that I've used for some stuff has to be held. How about contact cement, like what they use for countertops, etc. I used that for gluing foam pipe insulation. It goes on thin, you wait a little while, and then press the parts together. Superglue is also like that. Not totally sure what you're gluing though. If you have to take it out it'll tear the paper, I imagine.

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90 day return policy...no one has to live with this choice if they don't want to! All came out well with a little contact cement and white caulk. Appreciate the recommendation. Few extra bucks for a sleek look and air tight lights. Now I just have to focus on getting my dirty finger prints off the ceiling...at least those magic erasers work wonders on drywall.