Overfire Protocol

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Chuck the Canuck said:
So I guess I'm good to go eh??? :)
Click to expand...

Last year I screwed up and am the only one I know of here that admits taking one up over thousand degrees. It lived and is heating the house as I type. My old stove ran away twice in two nights because of a hidden crack in the back of the firebox and hit 1,425 and didn't melt into the floor.

None of which means it is OK. Just reason to take a close look when they cool down and after you have changed your underwear.

I try to keep'em under seven hundred but it doesn't always happen with a large fresh load and monster draft.
 
I consider 800 an over-fire because my ceramic (or whatever composite) refractory takes on a dark orange hue at this temperature (happened twice when I was forgetful on reloading and didn't check in soon enough to close the damper).

I definitely don't want to get to 800 any time soon again or for a prolonged period of time. This has only been for 20-30 minutes mind you as when I realized i had forgotten and closed the damper and shut down the air the stove was back down to 650 in about 20-30 minutes.
 
BrotherBart said:
Last year I screwed up and am the only one I know of here that admits taking one up over thousand degrees.
Click to expand...

Wow!!! I hope I never have to tell that story.....
 
I hope I don't either. Made a dumb mistake. I have a third of the secondary air intake blocked off because of my vacuum cleaner draft. Vacuuming the fireplace I had knocked the magnet blocking it off, did know it and fired the stove as usual after I was through. Whoops. When it took off I knew instantly what I had done but I ain't crawling under the side of a thousand degree stove buried in a fireplace.

That was the night I invented the now famous swing the door all the way open method of getting one back under control. It was a last resort because that stove wasn't through yet. Knowing how the air intakes work I figured it would kill the secondary and primary draft and it did.

Keep'em under control folks. Don't try this stuff at home.
 
BrotherBart said:
The UL clearance testing is at around 1400F surface temp.
Click to expand...
That's good to know.

I got it feeling hot, probably not that hot, but I don't have a thermo yet...getting one next time I go to town.
Threw a couple logs on some charred pieces that just didn't want to take, then everything took.
Got scarred for a few, then decided to put tin foil (seeing someone else had) on primary (too much draft, not fully blocking primary), a little better, then blocked half the secondary, got a really nice lazy flame going through out the box (hell, might have been cruising, secondary tubes weren't glowing and just pussed out). Stove still felt hot, after a bit, flue cooled down quite a bit though. Fan on high, and ceiling fan on high (glad I did, seeing as that was a suggested action)
So I wussed, and pushed foil in everything...Still didn't completely stop all air, but after 30 it's dying. May have had it hotter when curing paint, but eh?

Which had me thinking "Man, the EPA would rather let your house burn down than you pollute."
But I guess if they test it to that temp to underwrite it is a little more comforting to know.

Short is, I can't wait to have a couple thermometers on it, because when those secondary's get going, man it gets hot in a hurry.
 
BB, I'll admit that the Jotul sees temps north of 1k occasionally, at least on the cooktop (which seems to be ~200' hotter than the rest of the stove). Won't last for more than 10 minutes when it does, but I definitely keep a close eye on it...
Haven't been much above 800' on other parts of the stove though.
 
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