Installing my wood stove

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Gaucho

New Member
Jan 26, 2014
9
Succasunna, NJ
I'm finally installing a wood stove in an alcove in my house. Thanks to hearth.com I think I have it all figured out. Because the alcove is about 2 inches too small I have to install wall protection on all three sides. With the wall protection it leaves me with plenty of clearance for the stove. (Jotul Nordic 100). I had to move a couple outlets and baseboard heat as part of the prep. The durock backing is spaced 1" from the wall. I used some spacers from a kit I bought, but would not suggest them as they are a pain to install, as you can see I went to using the extra durock as furring strips. I have included a couple of photos to show my progress so far. Next step is to add the stone veneer. I have a couple of questions.
Do I need to move the recessed light that will be directly above the stove? The stove pipe will have at least 18" of clearance from the ceiling.
When I install the stone veneer, can I put up the scratch coat of mortar and let it dry overnight? I don't know if I will have time to complete all the stone work in one shot.
Any other helpful suggestions would be appreciated to make sure I do this right.

Update: I have pretty much completed the walls and I have attached the photos. Im happy that I took the time to lay out all the stones on my basement floor so that I didn't have too much trouble getting the stones up in a pattern without having to do too much cutting. Next step will be putting in the tile flooring and then installing the stove.

I have a question about the chimney which will run up the side of the house to above the roof. How far does he chimney pipe need to be from the house? I have about a 6" outcropping where the gutter is and don't know if I will need to put in a chimney elbow or just be able to move it out from the house and have a straight line to above the roof.

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Regarding the recess light: I don't know what the code might be on clearance to a recessed light right over the stove. However, I can tell you that if you have a standard spot light or incandescent light in the can you will already have a lot of heat in the can up in the attic or between the ceiling and floor if there is a room up above. By adding more heat from the stove pipe (assuming it is a single wall pipe) you could be pushing the limits of what the light can handle. Most of the recessed light are rated for a maximum wattage bulb due to how much heat it can handle. It would seem that if you now have heat coming off the stove pipe you could easily push up over the limit of the light. For sure I would get up in the attic and look at this recessed light to make certain the insulation has been pushed away from the can like they call for in the original installation instructions.
 
I had the same thought, but, just use double wall stainless pipe; you'll only buy it once and the clearance is much less. Looks like a lot of work.
 
Maybe if you get the sealed trim rings for use in showers it will keep the heat out, and use dim able led bulbs
 
I believe you need an open air space above and below that wall protection board to allow air to flow through.
The stone veneer can be stuck directly to the concrete board, a scratch coat is not really necessary.
 
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The stone veneer can be stuck directly to the concrete board, a scratch coat is not really necessary.

I wasn't sure about being able to go directly without a scratch coat, thanks.
I had the same thought, but, just use double wall stainless pipe; you'll only buy it once and the clearance is much less. Looks like a lot of work.

I have double shield stove pipe, because I was worried about the clearance and wanted to be sure.
 
So far the wall shields look ok, just maintain the 1" air gap top and bottom with the stone veneer. I don't think the light will be a big issue especially with double wall pipe. Where will the chimney support be? Are you going out the side or rear wall or straight up with a ceiling support?
 
is that wood framing under the floor? if so what are you planning to do with the floor I hope you were planning on a stove board on top of that board. also lumberjack is right you need an air inlet at the bottom and an exhaust at the top
 
The F100 is ember protection only with the bottom heat shield on the stove.
 
oh ok good then lol we don't get many jotuls here. so I don't know them. we mainly have quads regency and vc. and allot of older stuff of course
 
Gaucho, is there a layer of 3/4" plywood under the Durock cement board for the floor?
 
So far the wall shields look ok, just maintain the 1" air gap top and bottom with the stone veneer. I don't think the light will be a big issue especially with double wall pipe. Where will the chimney support be? Are you going out the side or rear wall or straight up with a ceiling support?

Im going out the rear wall, I have marked it on the wall, but you cannot see it in the pictures. It is 18" from the ceiling. I do have the 1" gap on top and bottom and I have left myself enough gap at the bottom to account for the tile flooring once it is installed. The Jotul comes with a bottom heat shield so according to instructions I'm good with tile flooring and the durock.
 
Sounds good. Just be sure to keep that 1" air space at the bottom and top of each of the 3 walls so that there is a good convective airflow behind the wall shield.
 
Nice job, do you have a photo of it finished?
 
Boy thats a good looking hearth. Turned out awesome. I like the look of the rugged walls with the civilized tile base.
 
I need a little help to make sure I did this right. I have finished the outside chimney but am not sure if it the straps are correct and if I need to put another right at the roof line. I have posted a picture of it. There is a strap right below the roof line that you cannot see. There is about 10 feet total pipe above the roof line.
 

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