Weight of wood for hauling?

A cord? Good grief no. I'd say about 1/4, MAYBE 1/3 of a cord at a time. With a Rav 4 I'd lean toward the 1/4 end. I have an odyssey that's rated to tow 3500 lbs, and I'd tow my 2200 lb pop up with it, but I'm planning on keeping the Safari around as long as possible to do that kind of heavy work.

If you're talking locally then I'd push it to 75% of the rating whatever you drive, but if you're talking mountain pass, hot day etc. then I'd go to Home Depot and rent a truck for $25.

Whatever you do, don't forget to divide the weight up between the trailer and the truck or the trailer will own you when you try and stop.

I don't have a truck but recently the power company cut down a tree about a mile from my house. It's like 10 feet from the road and the biggest part of it is off the ground, so bucking it is a dream. It's a about 2 feet in diameter. I have an 1997 mitsubishi Eclipse convertible. I put the top down and haul about 6 rounds at a time. I'm not sure what each round weighs, but they are a bear for me to pick up. 150 lbs maybe. It's right at the bottom a very steep hill too. The Eclipse is a turbo so it has plenty of power, but I keep wondering if the clutch is going to start slipping on me.

First off... While I still have the link loaded on the cut function:
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/heating_value_wood

This will give you the weight...

Is your Toyota a standard or automatic transmission? Do you have the trailer already or are you thinking of "which one to purchase"...and how much do you want to spend...???

Most homeowner owned utility trailers are light duty constructed and generally are only "good for around a 1000 pounds"...

Type in "trailer" in the search function here on the site... I think we must have discussed this a time or two already... lol

As for how much the Rav 4 will haul psecifically... I'll leave that to someone else to chime in on.

Personally, If it were my Toyota I would look towards a 3,000 pound class (double axle is prefferable but hard to find until you get into 5K class)... and "tow accordingly"...

If you "are in the market" for a trailer decide your budget.. An $800.00 utility trailer from the box stores... or maybe "sumphin' a little fancier"...

I can't comment on specific load ratings, but I can say this: I overloaded a rented u-haul trailer (the smallest one they make) and my GMC 2500 pickup once by hauling 3 1/2 cords of wet Red Oak 20 miles. It almost killed me - literally. Whatever you calculate your load and hauling capacity to be, DON'T PUSH IT.

IMO it's hard to put a number value on something like that. Too many variables. Since you are only 1 mile away I would tend to push the limits a bit. Also depends if you are in a rural low traffic area and can drive slow. If you can drive slow then you can use a lower gear and not work the SUV as much. If the trailer is in great shape then you can use the load ratings but if it is rusty and old and the tires and floor boards are getting dry rotted you can't. Is the wood wet or dry. Are the roads slippery due to rain or snow. The best way to tell when you have a big enough load is watch the tires and suspension. The rate at which is sags will determine how much more you can add before you can call it good. Obviously you do not want to bottom things out or break something, so it will be a judgement call. But you do have a small SUV that will not be able to control as heavy a load as my F150. And lastly you want to be able to do it safely. If you are going to err, do it on the lighter side. Since you are so close, an extra trip or 2 won't be a big deal. Good Luck.

ThePhotoHound said:

I can't comment on specific load ratings, but I can say this: I overloaded a rented u-haul trailer (the smallest one they make) and my GMC 2500 pickup once by hauling 3 1/2 cords of wet Red Oak 20 miles. It almost killed me - literally. Whatever you calculate your load and hauling capacity to be, DON'T PUSH IT.

Click to expand...

That's almost 17,000 pounds of wood hh:


That's beyond pushing it..........

EDIT...............
Here is another link to weights in adition to Keyman's (Since I didn't read his)
http://www.oznet.ksu.edu/library/forst2/c640.pdf
This is where I got the weight from.......... What's nice is it gives the green wood weight in addition to the seasoned or 20% MC.

maestrohc said:

I don't know if this makes a difference or not but we cancelled our order on the RAV 4 and got the Highlander (V6) instead with the towing package.

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Oh, it makes a difference... not a lot, but most certainly a difference. The Highlander is still a car, based on the Camry's underpinnings. I still wouldn't haul a cord with it, not for any distance at least. Smaller amounts would probably be fine though. Your concern will be cooking the tranny oil. The 4Runner is Toyota's entry level "truck based" SUV... which I'd actually consider hauling significant loads with. Seriously, don't damage your new car hauling wood... the savings in heating costs will be greatly offset by the fact that Toyota denied your warranty claim and you had to shell out 6 grand for a new transmission.

-- Mike

Keep in mind that there's more to it than just what you can get moving with the vehicle. You need to consider controlling and stopping the load. That goes for a trailer, or just a load on the vehicle itself.

Also, when calculating how much weight you can haul, remember that you are limited by the lowest of several limits:
1. The gross vehicle weight rating of the vehicle (or gross combined weight rating of the tow vehicle)
2. The gross trailer weight rating
3. The vehicle (or trailer's) licensed weight limit
4. Conditions (road, weather, etc...)
5. Your comfort level with managing the load
Finally and most importantly: common sense.

I'm with Elk on this one "better safe than sorry". I'd rather make an extra trip or two than cause an accident or wreck my vehicle. I've seen it too many times to joining that club.

karl said:

I don't have a truck but recently the power company cut down a tree about a mile from my house. It's like 10 feet from the road and the biggest part of it is off the ground, so bucking it is a dream. It's a about 2 feet in diameter. I have an 1997 mitsubishi Eclipse convertible. I put the top down and haul about 6 rounds at a time. I'm not sure what each round weighs, but they are a bear for me to pick up. 150 lbs maybe. It's right at the bottom a very steep hill too. The Eclipse is a turbo so it has plenty of power, but I keep wondering if the clutch is going to start slipping on me.

Click to expand...

"If you wonder whether or not the clutch in your convertible is gonna' start slippin cuz yer' haulin a half a dozen 'scrounge rounds' at a shot...you might be a _____" ROFLMAO (sorry couldn't resist I heard the voice of Foxworthy)

ThePhotoHound said:

I can't comment on specific load ratings, but I can say this: I overloaded a rented u-haul trailer (the smallest one they make) and my GMC 2500 pickup once by hauling 3 1/2 cords of wet Red Oak 20 miles. It almost killed me - literally. Whatever you calculate your load and hauling capacity to be, DON'T PUSH IT.

Click to expand...

AMEN To that photohound... Nothing like a U-Haul trailer doing the "Wah-Toosie" behind you to make you wake up and smell the roses.

For those that have never personally experienced this its enough to put the fear of G_D into ya...

At the very least it makes you think twice from there on in...

The prospect of "hair teeth and eyeballs allover the side of the way" is a hard lesson to have to learn...

"Read and Heed Wisely"

Trailering is a learning curve of a continous education process. When you tow trailers it's very easy to become complacent...never let your guard down...there is more to it than you think.

maestrohc said:

I don't know if this makes a difference or not but we cancelled our order on the RAV 4 and got the Highlander (V6) instead with the towing package.

Click to expand...

Whether it does or doesn't... you will find out.

Just keep in mind... trailering isn't a simple equation... everything makes a difference. It doesn't break down to simply # of pounds of rating. Wheelbase, braking co-efficients, weight distribution of the towing vehicle... everything changes, especially with a trailer loaded with heavy loose objects... just keep in mind "It's not just a trailer"

HC,
Don't forget that rating of 3500 lbs is the combined weight of the trailer and cargo. I would definitely recommend trailer brakes and a brake controller. The RAV 4 is a fine vehicle, but it is light weight and the brake rotors are not overly large.
Good luck

Oh and if you've never pulled a trailer and it starts doing the 'Wah-Toosie" behind you, don't hit the breaks. All you can do is keep the gas peddle on the floor and hope it straightens itself out.

Hi,

My advice would be not to exceed about 2/3 of manufacturers towing recc., they tend to be a bit optimistic. Two issues, 1st keeping the drive train of your shiny new vehicle from excessive wear. 2nd, stopping; if your trailer is not equipped with brakes, this can be a real problem with a light vehicle such as yours. Many states stipulate that trailers must be equiped with brakes if it exceeds a certain weight, often around 1000-1500lbs. The problem worstens when you throw wet roads in the mix.

G