Splitting WITHOUT a splitting block?

Jags said:

I felt that the ground was absorbing some of the energy.

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EXACTLY. It always seemed to me that using a large stump to split on was much easily on the body.

If the axe is going completely through the log, you need to judge which pieces need more force and which need less. That comes with experience. I used to split a prefect and straight piece with one arm on the axe. That was enough force.

If you really want to reduce stress on the body, buy a cheap 5 to 7 tone electric. I got a good used one for $50. and I almost enjoy splitting now. Oops, guess that's hydraulics.

I usually split on the ground. You have a longer stroke which means greater speed, so it is gonna be easier to split. I don't worry about my axe going into the ground because splitting axes don't need to be, nor should they be, sharp. They're supposed to wedge not cut

I can see that being an issue if you're using an x27, but you can always just sharpen it after a session if you really want to keep it sharp

I split on the ground. I usually buck up the wood, flip it on its side and split it where it stands. Heck of a lot easier to move than rounds and they pack tighter in the pickup. I have just started using an X-27 so I guess I might need to sharpen it on occasion.

I split on a large round. I agree with Jags. By splitting on the ground directly you are losing a lot of energy into the ground and not the piece you are splitting.

I split on a block whenever possible. I quarter up large rounds on the ground so I don't have to lift them. I do it carefully because of past problems in my L5-S1. I use a TimberTuff timber claw for lifting rounds and splits onto the block.

If you want something shorter than a full round, just cut one to the height you want.

I'm often splitting in the woods at the site of the tree so I'm splitting larger rounds in half on the ground just to get them small enough to lift onto a block - which is just another round. And when I'm done, I split up the block on the ground.
But around here, there are so many rocks in the ground that the edge of my X27 does get knicked up in the process. ...sparks fly...everything.
So If I had my 'drathers, I'drather not split on the ground.

I always use a block underneath. Just feels more natural that way for me.

Just the other day I got
Some ash. Usually spits great with my x27. I wanted to do some quick splits so I just put in the snow. It split but not easy. The ground was absorbing the hit. So I graben another log and split on that with ease.

I too split on the ground using the tractor trailer tire method with nothing under it. I split with the x27 as well and the handle usually hits the tire before the blade hits the ground saving me from having to fix knicks as often

We generally split all our wood on an asphalt driveway, it goes without saying we use a splitting block to help prevent damage that might occur on those glancing blows.
That being said I have split on the ground before and the problems I found with it was (a) The ground was too hard. (b) The ground was too soft.
What that means was that either the ground was rocky and when the axe or maul went through the wood it would strike the rocks and damage the edge. Or else the ground was so soft that when you struck the rounds the ground tended to cushion them and absorb the blows, making it difficult to actually split the wood. Placing another large round under the one you wanted to split gave it some backing and stability, making it easier to split. While at the same time providing protection from any rocks below.
Mind you certain types of wood are incredibly easy to split and require very little force, so having a solid backing isn't really necessary, and if you don't have to swing all that hard you don't have to worry so much about over swinging and hitting rocks. I split some maple rounds a few years ago that were so easy to split I could have split with them one handed on top of a pile of pillows. But for other wood like knotty Douglas fir, you need a serious base to stabilize the rounds and something a little heavier than your boy scout hatchet to split it.

both, depending on conditions

I agree that type of wood matters. If I buck a lot of red oak, I'm going to split them on the ground rather than lift to a block - doesn't take much effort to split the round. Red maple for example, typically gets placed on a block since, in my experience, it can be more difficult to split. As for swing, I definitely prefer the block - allowing a square hit of the axe heat. I don't really like swinging very hard at ground level rounds when the head is starting to angle toward me footsies. Cheers!

I started using a block but after a few years I started just standing them up and wacking them, mainly for convenience as I do most splitting right where they are bucked.

For me it's just a matter of adjusting my stance and swing and I find I can split long and short rounds on demand in any order.

Of course I've had 30+ years of practice.

Try thinking of it as a game of skill, every golf ball is not on a tee and every pitch isn't down the middle.

Most of my handsplitting has been on the ground because that is what's handy. Have done some on my gravel driveway too which doesn't seem to bother the mauls too much. When a stump is convenient and is low enough to the ground will use that some. Do agree the ground absorbs some of the energy of the maul, especially soft ground. Do always us a low stump when using the x27 which is delegated mostly too kindling because of it's limitations.

Most of my splitting is done on a block, but occasionally I'll bust up larger pieces in the dirt before lifting them up. It always worries me because it's next to a gravel driveway, so of course there's gravel mixed in with the dirt. I've put a few small nicks in my x27 doing this (I really should use the maul but it's so much extra work!). Right now my block is about 15", I think soon I'm going to cut one down to about 8" and see how it holds up. I think that would be about the perfect height for me so that the blade hits the logs as perpendicular as possible.

when you develop head speed, you can leave the round laying on the ground and split it.

I do both as others have said...big rounds need to be split on site...i also golf swing when they hit the ground works well with x27...

When you do speed you can do anything.

At least you think you can anyway.

On the ground for me....

On the ground .... too much work and time wasted lifting big heavy rounds up on a block.

i try to find a mostly flat rock that barely protrudes about the soil. then i position my tractor tire so the rock is inside of it, put a round in the tire, and go to town. handle is stopped by the sidewall of tire and head never hits the rock. sidewall doesnt send a shock up your arms either.