Have less than 1/16" of glazed creosote in chimney. Stop operation?

I was burning from the wrong end of my pile and too low from Jan 4th to last night. I now have thermometer so I can keep the right temps and am pulling wood from the otherside which has some decently dry stuff.

I have some glazed creosote buildup in the chimney and stove pipe. Worse in the stove pipe. Less than a 1/16", kinda just like a thin layer of paint.

Not the best setup as I have shorter chimney than I should and 6" going into 8" with two 45 angles.
Marginal wood and low temperatures, just got my thermometer today.

Took the stovepipe outside and took my butane torch to it. Couldn't get it to go up without keeping the torch on it. What did flame flaked up, but I couldn't get a rocket fire going.

Class A chimney has small coating, but still there.

Question is:
1) Stop operation, till get fully removed. After taking the torch to it and seeing how much oomf it had before it was exhausted of fuel, made me feel it might not be bad enough to fully shut down. If it all went up at once, it'd last less than a minute.
2) Continue operation, and inspect chimney weekly, use chemical treatment, proper flue temps...

I've burned as far as my torch can go into the stove pipe, and the places where it isn't even a paint layer, wouldn't ignite (if so it was fleeting).

I'm leaning towards taking the poly brush to it again like a madman, then use chemical treatment proper flue temps and keep a close eye on the chimney weekly to get removed.
The burn test wasn't a huge ball of flames, so I think it's light enough to avoid professional cleaning for now...

But am open to suggestions, I'm off to do more brushing.

Also, since it is a rental, not mine, I don't want to replace the 8" class A chimney with 6".
Is there a way to connect 6" single wall through the 8" class A? Ideas?
Just make sure flue gets hot before shutting her down, which I was obviously being too conservative on.
Probably just mostly be fixed by proper flue temps and really only using the good wood in the pile, as my hand wasn't the most accurate instrument and some of that wood was heavy.

Well, I was able to vigourously sweep off the bottom half of the class A with the poly brush...
So from what I'm hearing about glazed creosote, sounds like I caught it early.

As it stands going to go about using anti-creosote additives, any suggestions?
And vigilant chimney inspections to gauge build up or if it was just my earliest fires that caused it.

Will any of the creosote removers work so that I can get it with a wire or poly brush, or do I have to get a professional. It's real light, was able to remove some with poly brush, after torching stove pipe (the part that was closest to 1/16") was able to remove all but little crusty left.

I'm trying to get rid of it, but at my disposal right now is a poly brush. I hear people talk about glass chunks, 1/8" or 1/4" layer and calling in the proffessional...

I'm just wondering if it is something I can do myself, with those products that break it down and regular sweeping over the next few weeks, or I am forced to fork out $$ on a sweep before I light another fire?

The fire department has wire brushes, I'll be brushing with one of those tomorrow....Maybe a flatwire brush will do it, if not that? I know they say it won't, but with the limited progress I made on it with a poly, maybe its light enough?

I have the electric baseboard heat on for now...Was going to do the sweep later, but then said "I better do it now, while it's warm."

Well, since the worst of it was in my 4' length on sw 8", I'll probably fork out the $$$ for a 6", so at least my air increase happens in the insulated 8" class A (plus might as well have telescoping piece for ease of inspection/removal).

Is it better to have my 45 angle right at the exit of the stove, or closer to the ceiling collar, I ask because that angle is where the biggest concentration of class 1 or 2 creosote was.

Stovepipe is as follows all single wall: 6" stovetop adapter, 6" 45 angle, 1' of 6", 6" 45 angle, 6"-8" reducer, 4' of 8" to 8" class A (about 12', still 3' too short {but that's way too expensive to do since I'll be gone next winter).

The chimney cap it pretty inaccessible, 10 ft up on a pitched roof. Do I have to remove it to clean it? That may be near impossible.

I'll wait to see what feedback I get before lighting up. Sorry for the convoluted, just getting hit hard by the learning curve.
Thanks.

EDIT: So have gone through the entire 'creosote & chimney sweeping' part of the new wood burners sticky.
Going through the creosote sweeping logs part now.
Sounds like some people have had luck with the additives to help turn the glaze into sweepable stuff.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/removing-glazed-creosote.98089/

I know there is no substitute for sweeping, I just am hoping it is ME that can do the sweeping.

Wire idea came before reading enough people say the CSL, or TSP or A.C.S. products worked for them to get it flaky and brushable.

From what I read the wire on SS is like a last resort option. Plenty of people do it, putting minor scratches in the process, but so far no one complain about structural damage from wire brushing on SS.

So getting some single wall 6" to replace the single wall 8", and some creosote remover and a brushing in early next week. Was suppossed to have another warm day today, but then that changed quickly. Weather came in a day early, so perfect time to use some additives.

Thanks again.

Well, FD wire brush was the wrong size to fit my rods... So I didn't give it a go with wire. Just have to see how things look after the 1 wk and give her another sweep then.
So now it is just fitting the new 6" pieces I got to replace the 4' of 8" single wall.
Now the air increase will happen right below the class A chimney that is 8".
All the stovepipe, sans reducer, will be 6" now.

Got some creosote conditioning powder, two thermometers, some of my driest wood from the pile stacked by the door, and some starter sticks, while I get kindling chopped and drying.

So round 2 begins....
And just in time, 'cause this storm came a day early and the clear/cold is coming after.
Baseboard heaters won't be able to keep the house from freezing come the cold.

wood burning cop said:

I was wondering this also. my offset is by the ceiling, but could easily be moved to the stovetop so the longer run would be straight. what is everyones thoughts on where the offset should be.

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I don't know.
But I just got some parts today, and aesthetically it looks better.
2' straight up, to angle (1' @ 45deg), then about another two feet straight up (1' section and 1' slip collar), then reducer to 8" chimney.
Plus, now I can put my thermometer at 18" about the outlet, before I wasn't sure if I should account for the horizontal?

And I'm hoping having all the single wall as 6", except the reducer, will help with creosote collection should I miss temps. My 8" single wall section, (that was salvaged, reason I started off with it, save $$$) was where the deposit was the worst.
Ofcourse having two thermos will help, my 'gut' was way off.

So got a fire up and running.
Mag thermometer on pipe is staying 300-325, 18" up from stove.
Stove top is staying around 600 (hottest part, I could find, where air wash goes over baffles).

So question is, stove in the 500-600 range is good right?
If pipe starts going below 300 (where indicator puts creosote formation), and stove is already 600, will opening air for more flow through pipe heat up stove too much?
If it does go too high on stove top and temperature falls under 300 on flue, is it okay since stove is really hot at this point.

Once it's down to coals, is it okay to let flue drop below 300? Let stove drop before 300? Know I don't want to load at hotter than 400.

Well trying to keep stove under 650, I think?

But, I'm new and open to all suggestions as this one topic seems hard to pin down an answer, so I'll be using the recommendations on the thermometer as my guide till then.

Thanks again. Really helping me feel better about operating this hot thang with all this information and guidance.

Burning up the last of the first firing after the sweep,
air control full open,
Stove: 500-525
Flue : 300-325

Trying to keep from getting too hot this next week while I see if the creosote remover (TSP based), does the trick on that stubborn stuff.
But my problem before was 'eyeing' it and running it too low, so if you think it's too low, please let me know, as it is right on the border of the thermometer guide. And this is the one question where I know people have reasons for their preferred range, but I need to make sure I don't fire in 'creosote land' anymore.

I already am having to keep the air control open much more than I was, I should've checked the chimney sooner (but didn't have money for thermometer anyway, Catch22).

First thing I should have purchased was the thermometer. If nothing else it makes me feel better.

Reload: Addded TSP to coals, let burn for 10-20 minutes before reload.

Got going, now:
Air control fully down (1/4 open?)
Stove : almost 600, just stopped climbing.
Flue : reading 225, dropping to 200...

Do I open the air control and send more heat up the flue, was reading 350 before I started shutting her down. Got good secondary flames on the tube before the baffles.

Maybe I'm just stressing over nothing. But if you see something, please say. Thanks.

EDIT: Well maybe I turned it down too much, 9 min ago, stove dropped to 575, flue down to 150 (magnetic thermometers). Opened up the air got the flames going again, will step her down gradually.
Stove: 600
Flue : 250 and rising.

11:04 MST
Jumped on me, at half open. Had to turn it down all the way. Still getting some jumping flames, but not super vigorous.
Stove: ~660
Flue: ~220

On coals, with air control fully open.
Stove : 400
Flue : 140

I just get paranoid, is this too low, or since it's past the big part of the offgassing, not a problem?

Just seems like if the flue temperatures need to stay elevated more than where they want to sit based on the stoves temperature, then I need to give more air and it will be a lot of attention.
Or, do you first look at the stove temps and then go from there?

EDIT: Using 'Imperial Burn Indicators' for stovetop and flue. Hopefully I didn't screw up by not getting the right stovetop thermometer.
http://www.imperialgroup.ca/stove_stovepipeaccessories.cfm?c=77

They both seem to read the same as eachother though, I'll do an oven test here soon enough.

USMC80 said:

ACS creosote remover. Just make sure your burning seasoned wood and burning right when using it. Will help remove 3rd degree creosote with continuous use

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So the store had a TSP based product, I bought that, threw it in tonight on the coal bed of the first fire.
Should I go back to town and find ACS (or order online) instead. I saw ACS advertising that, and Or use the TSP until the ACS arrives? Or people had success with the TSP on this type of creosote?

Yeah, says use twice in a week, more for larger system. So I'll probably hit it once more in a few days, then a few days after that pull off the stovepipe for inspection.
If no go, then I'll spend some cash on the ACS.

Adding TSP to coals every other day.

Well swept the chimney today. Class A chimney swept up clean, didn't see any sign of glaze left except on the chimney cap (which I can't reach at the moment). I'll have to figure that out when I un-ghetto the chimney support.
Had about a cup (8oz) of soot (some glassy) from 10 days of burning. Usually let it go out at night if not too cold because of the crosswind forge potential.

However, the single wall 6" all had glaze similar to the first sweep. Perhaps I'll be watch the blower a little more, but it probably all comes down to my bad wood and unpredictable draft. I'm learning when it's windy out, the forge gets going. Ranaway on my yesterday and I had to dump wood. Chimney is too short and the supports come too close to the cap. But it's a rental and a learning experience when I assess safety of future living situations. Just gotta make it a few more months...Luckily when it's really windy out its usually a warm front pushing around and means good sun too.

So question? I heard people talk about adding a little gas to the chimney cap (in firepit) and that being a way to get rid of the glaze on the cap. Anyone done that with their single wall pipe? Seems like the easiest (and cheapest because will save me buying a wire 6" brush) is to give it some gas and let the crap burn in the firepit.
Thoughts?

EDIT: Well, looks like burning it off may not be the best option as people have complained of discoloration. Anyone try anything a little more domestic than sodium hydroxide to dissolve creosote?