First saw re-build questions??

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19FarmHand78

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Jan 24, 2012
55
South East Iowa
I'm planning on finally tearing into one of my non-running Stihl 028's to rebuild... so what tools should I look into having on hand? I've got the basics covered, sockets, wrenches, screw drives... and plan on needing at compression tester, feeler gauges, so what else might I need?
 

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If this is your first go at it - it doesn't hurt to take a few pics while it is still in one piece. You can always reference back to them if you have questions during re-assembly.
It really depends on how far you are digging into it. A torque wrench is needed for some stuff.
 
I used to use a low pressure pump & Vacuum to pressurize & vacuum check the case for seal leaks.

Greg
 
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Thanks for the replys guys!
 
A few good pairs of pliers for the rings. An extendo magnet thing is always handy. I also like to put the bolts in a magnetic bolt tray.

I did my first rebuild a few years ago with little research. Just take your time and you should be fine.

A little 2 stroke oil in the cylinder wouldn't hurt anything and a gasket kit is handy too incase you rip one tearing the saw apart.
 
Not that I ever rebuilt one. What's the plan?
 
I just pulled the top end (jug/cylinder) off a Husq 55. It had 4x Allen/Hex bolts of 5/32". And they gotta be LONG wrenches to go thru the length of the cylinder. Had to buy a whole set just for 1 wrench...although, if in no hurry, you can buy just one wrench on ebay. This is a good video for the beginner and there may be one specifically for the 028:
 
For the Stihl cylinders, I use a 6" long Wiha T27 bit. I use a square adapter on the end of the hexagonal drive bit to use it with a torque wrench.
 
Skinny locking clamps (hemostat type) are useful for grabbing fuel lines and pulling them through cases.
 
Lots of good advice here... thanks guys.

I can get the saw to run now, but as soon as you touch the throttle it cuts out and dies. Bar oiler is leaking like a sieve. All fuel lines and filter look dry and cracking. It came to me buy way of my FIL, he picked it up from a guy getting a devoice, for little to nothing. It has a 25" bar on it now, waaaayyy to big, so I am guessing it has had a hard life, and needs to be rebuilt.

Once I get a chance I'll be sure to take plenty of pics, cause as the say "pics or it didn't happen"

19FarmHand78
Nathan
 
I'd be willing to bet that a crack i the fuel line is causing the saw to shut off when you hit the throttle. It's gulping air...classic effect of age and/ or ethenol gas. The entire saw may not need rebuilding. I would replace the fuel line, oil line, and spark plug and see how it runs. If the compression tests good, and the clutch is good...slap a new bar and chain on it and you should have a good as new saw.
 
I'd replace the impulse line as well. Those have a tendency to dry rot over time and can cause the saw to run lean. The carb may need cleaning or rebuild/replace as well.
 
I guess I am somewhat of a "clean freak". I have rebuilt engines for years and the first thing I do is CLEAN! I have seen many photos of chainsaws with cylinder removed with all kind of crap of which part, most likely, went to crankcase!
I have also ran into missing parts---If it didn't need four bolts, they could have made it cheaper using three!!
Just make sure you have no parts left over when finished, and replace what wasn't there!
Also, some people suggest a piston ring compressor for a two cycle. I agree that some people would be better off to use one, it cuts down the chance of a piston ring damage, and it is faster, but I never have used one.
It is my opinion that a Factory Service Manual is one of the best tools, and second is a Exploded Parts List. The parts list will sow in what order to assemble parts.
It is also a great idea to make lots of photos before disassembly.
 
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