Came home to see the contractors had installed this for my smoke pipe into the chimney. My knee jerk reaction is that this is galvanized. My manual calls for 24 gauge stainless, black pipe or class A 103ht all fuel pipe. Is this legit?
Should I be worried? Smoke pipe ID
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well galvanized can off gas some chemicals at woodstove temps not sure how bad it is but you are not supposed to do it
HotCoals
Minister of Fire
That's just goofy.
Make sure they put it together right next tine also. The pipes higher should always go into the pipe below it.
Make sure they put it together right next tine also. The pipes higher should always go into the pipe below it.
Don't you mean the pipe below should go into the upper pipe?
Looks like they have it so the upper pipe goes into the lower.
Looks like they have it so the upper pipe goes into the lower.
Are we looking at the chimney pipe or the air circulation pipe? If it is the pipe for air distribution, it is fine.
I can't figure out how to get the pictures correctly. Every time I upload they rotate. The pipe in the picture is the smoke pipe. The upper pipe is currently fitted in the pipe below it so I'm assuming that's wrong too...nice
Fred61
Minister of Fire
The upper pipe should be slipped in to the lower pipe like a funnel to keep the juices that may form from exiting at the joint.
maple1
Minister of Fire
So what kind of a burner is it hooked up to?
It sure looks like galvanized, which I'm pretty sure is a no-no, and it sure looks like it's hooked up backwards, as others have already said.
Does your appliance (whatever it is) manual say anything about this stuff? If it does, have it in front of you when you see them or call them on it so they know that you know what you're talking about.
It sure looks like galvanized, which I'm pretty sure is a no-no, and it sure looks like it's hooked up backwards, as others have already said.
Does your appliance (whatever it is) manual say anything about this stuff? If it does, have it in front of you when you see them or call them on it so they know that you know what you're talking about.
NE WOOD BURNER
Minister of Fire
- Dec 30, 2012
- 754
hope the contractor did not install your chimney too.
Most likely the contractor did not have a crimper to adapt the appliance. common mistake. appliance adapters are the best but for some reason not always supplied with the appliance.
Most likely the contractor did not have a crimper to adapt the appliance. common mistake. appliance adapters are the best but for some reason not always supplied with the appliance.
Fred61
Minister of Fire
The stove is a United States Stove Clayton. Got the chimney sweep coming out tomorrow to give it a once over to make sure it's all kosher....and thanks for the picture help 
maple1
Minister of Fire
nwomatt
Member
Ok sweep is here. Pipe is galvanized furnace pipe, is 26 gauge metal and is too close to the ceiling. Three strikes. Glad I questioned that one and got some good help from you guys. Thanks!
heaterman
Minister of Fire
FIFY
The pipe has to be 24 gauge black or other material rated for solid fuel. The NFPA code listed above is still valid.
And....it is installed upside down. You always want the upper piece to insert into the lower piece with the "male" part of the connection on top so creosote drains into the length below rather than running down the outside of the next lower piece.
nwomatt
Member
Maybe the installer thought it was a heat take off instead of a chimney. If it was it would be fine.
heaterman
Minister of Fire
I would hire a different installer if that were the case and not even let him back in my house to fix his problem. ...
NE WOOD BURNER
Minister of Fire
- Dec 30, 2012
- 754
This is exactly why I am a DIYer. This is exactly why inspections are necessary. The good installers get inspected quickly because the inspectors generally know who is doing it right and who is doing it wrong. So if you burned that pipe you would have the potential for Zinc emitting into the home. I prefer the 22 gauge solid pipe not the 24 gauge crimp together pipe. LIke I said earlier the manufacturer should have an appliance adaptor to fit your desired outlet pipe.
Fred61
Minister of Fire
"You always want the upper piece to insert into the lower piece with the "male" part of the connection on top so creosote drains into the length below rather than running down the outside of the next lower piece."
Especially if it's flaming creosote
Especially if it's flaming creosote
I still don't have this picture thing figured out. I turned my iPad the right way but it still flips it when I upload it. I'm assuming it has something to do with file size. Anyways....sweep told me what to buy and installed everything at no cost. Black pipe now as you can see with the connections going the right way. As far as my HVAC company, I'm just going to chalk it up to wood furnaces are not their forte. They have done great work for me in the past and even the sweep complimented their ductwork. I would love to DIY but for insurance reasons I want documentation saying it was done by a pro. Thanks for all your help and can't wait to get this baby fired up tonight and get some heat in the house. These single digits are killing me!Attachments
BoilerMan
Minister of Fire
This just proves that just because someone is a "professional" that they do not necessarily know what they are doing and/or do make mistakes. Good on you for checking up on them. Tin-knockers (aka sheetmetal guys) do get a lot of respect from me, as I HATE ductwork!
TS
TS
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