New guy decides not to use insulated liner--then hears the voice of reason

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begreen, I know; I mentioned that lack of clearance above. Considering the stud, plaster, and lathe barely get warm to the touch on the two sides that do not meet the clearance, I do not care right now.
 
russb, PLEASE don't say you DO NOT CARE!!!! With those two beautiful children you have in the photo helping out, all of us here on the Hearth.com site would be sick to death to hear of a tragic house fire. Keep to the correct clearances, it may (wall) feel cool to touch but sometimes it's what you don't see that causes BIG trouble. You will get it right and will enjoy the stove, please don't be in a big hurry just to burn down your house. Do what you will but the advice of everyone on this site will tell you to keep to clearances.
 
I'm late to the thread, but wanted to add this to the discussion as I didn't see it elsewhere.

Many think of insulation as an aide in improving draft and preventing creosote, which is true. Some suggest it is therefore not needed when dealing with an internal chimney.

That just isn't true in most cases.

Many liners require insulation if you are unable to determine an air gap between the outside of the masonry structure and combustibles. The insulation serves to break the radiant path that can over heat the brick.

The required air gap is usually one or two inches - not normally present with an internal flue. The specific details are listed in the instructions that come with the liner. Read them. If the liner doesn't come with instructions, don't use it and buy one that does.
 
New guy here, just read this thread as I'm having an install done soon (I hope).

I saw only one post that mention a price difference between insulated and non. Is it really just (average) a couple hundred bucks? That seems to be a no-brainer IMHO.
 
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