Will I regret Getting off my Grandma Fisher for an EPA stove

How about a Napoleon 1400? I have one and heat around 2400sqft without a blower.

Not necessarily what you are looking for but a good stove at a great price...http://eugene.craigslist.org/hsd/4285808278.html

Get a new one and keep your old one. You can always sell the new and reinstall the old. But I think using 40% less wood and get the same heat out would be a plus for anyone.

Another...http://eugene.craigslist.org/for/4262595485.html

You may regret it if your wood is not dry. EPA stoves need wood with moisture content of 20% or less. Many people present company included are surprised how wet the wood they intend to use is and get frustrated. I think it can be especially true for people like yourself who have a lot of experience with an older stove.

Yep your wood better sit for 2 years in most cases. I'm here in the south. I mostly cut dead oak and it still needs 2 summers at least to 2 years for it to burn well in the stove. 6-9 months that wood is still wet and you get very little heat out of it.

Just here to re-iterate what has already been said. Your current stove will burn just about any wood you put in it. The newer stoves really need dry wood (cut, split, stacked for one year, sometimes two, even three based on some postings here). It should really be based off of moisture content of the wood when it is cut, split, and staked for a period of time (an then re-spliting a piece and measuring from the inside of the split.

Also, I wouldn't go small I would go big (NC-30), or a firebox around 2.5-3.5 cubic feet. You probably don't need the select few 4+cu foot stoves.

And don't throw away your old stove right away...just in case you get frustrated at all with your new stove at least you are happy with the current results of your fischer.

Dry wood is important. If you are used to cutting wood and burning it same season that may not have the desired results.

If you already have would set next you dry, now is a great time to upgrade to a better EPA stove. With the winter season winding down most stores are putting the stoves on sale. The Nc30 full price is a great price for a well made, simple, low maintenance stove. But like everybody else said wait a season or two to upgrade until you have a well dried wood.

Even cutting g wood in january for the next winter will not cut it unless your cutting dead elm or ash for example. Even cutting in november for the following november won't work. I live in SC where 95f summer days are the norm and I can't dry dead standing oak in that time.

bayrunner said:

Hi Everybody___ I’m new to this forum .What a great find. .I’ve been trying to figure out which way to go (stove wise).My house is 1600sq.ft. Not an open floor plan. I’ve been using a Fisher Granma for the last 30 yrs. I love it, puts out the heat, but I have been wondering if its time to upgrade to a more efficient stove? Reasons being, time spent tending the fire, and usage of wood. But I would hate to regret getting another stove and miss the Fisher. My wife and I love the Radiant heat it puts out. It seems Radiant stoves are not plentiful, Conductive stoves seen to be more available. The stoves I’ve been considering are Lopi Endeavor (convective), Buck21, 74, (radiant), Englander NC13, NC30 (radiant). I’m looking for a RELIABLE, LOW maintenance, heavy duty stove, parts easily replicable by user and parts readily available. THANKS--------Bayrunner

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That is a tough question. . . and the answer is "maybe."

My parents had a large Kodiak insert (very similar in design and execution to a Fisher) and replaced it with a Jotul (whatever their big insert is) and they are still torn. If reliability, maintenance and build quality are primary concerns, I'm not sure there's an EPA stove that surpasses your Fisher.

Just one man's opinion. . .

clemsonfor said:

Even cutting g wood in january for the next winter will not cut it unless your cutting dead elm or ash for example. Even cutting in november for the following november won't work. I live in SC where 95f summer days are the norm and I can't dry dead standing oak in that time.

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There's no elm or ash in Western OR. Fir, hemlock and alder cut now with burn just fine this winter.

How big of a firebox is the Grandma? Some of the fishers were large stoves. Does your chimney have a liner in it or is it just tile? If it has a liner is it 6 or 8 inch?

The Napoleon 1400 is a 2.25 cu ft stove and can not be relied upon to heat 2400 sq ft of space. It's great that wenger is doing it, but he is the exception and not the rule.

How many hours of heat are you getting out of the Fisher?

If the grandma is one of the larger fisher stoves and your chimney is lined and this isn't a slammer install, than you will need quite a big stove to equal the heat you are currently getting from the fisher.

Initially yes, then no, then after you are dialed in with your stove, you will wish you had done it sooner.
Many have made the transition, whined about it afterwards, took some very good advice, honed & relearned their burning habits and wood they burn, and now love the decision they made.
Using much less wood, for same amount of heat, and longer burn times(no more getting up in the early AM for some, to fill it again) and seeing a nice fire at the same time.
Up to you whether to dive in or not.

Think long and hard about it. Look at the January cold snap many EPA owners crying but, not many old schoolers crying. It's -15f here with an inside of 68f with both stoves and a monitor 2200 (all cruising). I burn about 6 cords 75g of k-1, and 15g of LP each winter +/-. I do live in a cold ass location though(sheltered valley).

Wildo said:

Think long and hard about it. Look at the January cold snap many EPA owners crying but, not many old schoolers crying. It's -15f here with an inside of 68f with both stoves and a monitor 2200 (all cruising). I burn about 6 cords 75g of k-1, and 15g of LP each winter +/-. I do live in a cold ass location though(sheltered valley).

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Many? There are more than a few of us with properly sized stoves that did just fine during the sub-zero weather bouts.

I just need to stress how important it is that your stove is the correct size for your needs. You can not replace a large Pre-EPA stove with a smaller modern stove. It will not work and you will hate it. Size the stove appropriately.

Bayrunner, scared off yet? Shouldn't be. If you use good fuel and as Browning and others are stressing, the right sized stove you will likely be very happy and can feel good that you arre burning clean w/ less wood usage. It's a win win but the EPA stoves are a little different. Better you know up front and prepare accordingly.

Edit: sounds like one of the Englanders would be a good choice for you. By all accounts they provide good price, good service and strong heating.

You MUST be willing to stick around here and re-learn wood burning or you'll likely be unhappy with the switch.

Based on what I have been able to find, the Grandma's firebox is 22" x 22" x 12". That converts to a firebox of about 3.36 cu ft if my math is right (right?).

I wouldn't go any smaller than the England 30 (or a comparable economic 3.5 cu ft stove). But, the Grandma takes an 8" pipe/liner. If you have an 8" liner I would go with something along the lines of the the Buck 91 or 94, or the Blaze King King. Both are larger than the 30 and both take an 8" pipe.

Jags said:

Between BBar and Hogz posts (and others), they have nailed it. The Grandma is still considered a BIG stove. You will need to replace it with a BIG stove if you are gonna compare it to the Grandma.

I would lay this bet down:
If you replace the Grandma with the big buck or the Blaze king, king - installed properly (liner, etc) and have quality firewood, you will walk away all smiles.

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Jaggs is dead on, but, do the total costing first. The EPA stoves require almost perfect wood and venting (chimney) to work any where near what they advertise. Which means you need the the time, the inclination and the space to collect and store 2-3 years of wood supply. Also, you will need to closely research your chimney requirements, how tall, liner (almost always a must)....? insulated.....? Switching the old one for a new one is not always as easy or cheap as one hopes. I learned this the expensive way.

By the time you calculate all these factors into the equation realizing ROI can be extended for years.

Hardrockmaple said:

he EPA stoves require almost perfect wood and venting (chimney) to work any where near what they advertise. Which means you need the the time, the inclination and the space to collect and store 2-3 years of wood supply.

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I ran a Pre-EPA stove. And that bastard wasn't much fun with wet wood. Pre-EPA or a modern stove requires good fuel. Not sure about "perfect." chit needs to be dry to produce good heat no matter what stove you are running.

Hardrockmaple said:

By the time you calculate all these factors into the equation realizing ROI can be extended for years.

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What is convenience worth to you? My old Pre-EPA stove, about the same size as the modern stove that replaced it, would provide much shorter burn times. I'd often wake up to a cold room in the morning. Often times a cold restart was needed. Since I moved to modern stoves, burn times are extended and the stoves hold heat longer for easier restarts. The 30 can now get the stove room just as warm while providing 4-8 hours of additional heat.

Hardrockmaple said:

Also, you will need to closely research your chimney requirements, how tall, liner (almost always a must)....? insulated.....?

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Fact is, a lot of the old Pre-EPA stoves SHOULD have had a liner and some had minimal chimney height requirements. Just because many people slammed in the install doesn't mean it was the right thing to do. I don't know about the "closely research" aspect.