Brand new englander IP won't light??

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btbeam

btbeam

New Member
Dec 19, 2013
61
New Jersey
I finally got my install finished today. I true dot start the stove and I get an e-2 error. It feeds the pellets but it doesn't ignite. I reached inside the back of the stove to see if the igniter was all the way in. It seemed to be and it also was hot. Any thoughts about what's going on?
 
Make sure the burn pot is all the way against the back wall of the cradle / against the igniter sleeve. I've found there's enough play in mine that if the burn pot is pushed forward, the airflow goes around and not through the pellets.

Search this site for Mike H @ ESW's [stoveguy2esw] thread about adjusting the ignitor sleeve forward if needed.

Check the settings at the bottom of the control panel (they should be 4-4-1 by default).

What's your chimney and OAK install like?
 
MaineStove said:
Make sure the burn pot is all the way against the back wall of the cradle / against the igniter sleeve. I've found there's enough play in mine that if the burn pot is pushed forward, the airflow goes around and not through the pellets.

Search this site for Mike H @ ESW's [stoveguy2esw] thread about adjusting the ignitor sleeve forward if needed.

Check the settings at the bottom of the control panel (they should be 4-4-1 by default).

What's your chimney and OAK install like?
Click to expand...

I pushed the burn pot back and tried again with the same result.

My OAK is installed with the shortest run I could. My chimney us 4" pipe. Starts with clean out tee,up 5' of pipe,elbow,15" pipe out through wall to another tee then up 2' to the termination point
 
MaineStove said:
Make sure the burn pot is all the way against the back wall of the cradle / against the igniter sleeve. I've found there's enough play in mine that if the burn pot is pushed forward, the airflow goes around and not through the pellets.

Search this site for Mike H @ ESW's [stoveguy2esw] thread about adjusting the ignitor sleeve forward if needed.

Check the settings at the bottom of the control panel (they should be 4-4-1 by default).

What's your chimney and OAK install like?
Click to expand...

FYI my settings on the control panel are 1-4-1 so that's certainly different. What should they be and how do I change that
 
The first button is the "Lower Fuel Feed" (LFF), second is the "Low Burn Air" (LBA), and the third is "Air On Temp" (AOT) (don't touch this last setting).

Push lower button of choice, number will show, use both arrows (both up arrows or both down arrows..) to change value. Make a small change at a time (give the stove a half hour or so to stabilize after changing things).

The default settings are a good place to start (and varies based on the model of stove - for 25-IP it's 4-4-1).
 
My particular stove burns well, with every pellet I've tried, at 4-4-1.

I've found it also works very nicely, with a bit less apparent ash buildup, at 4-5-1.
 
btbeam said:
So what would 1-4-1 mean what is the first number
Click to expand...

Lower Fuel Feed - be sure to check out the search function in the upper right of this site.

The first lower button is the "Lower Fuel Feed" (LFF), second is the "Low Burn Air" (LBA), and the third is "Air On Temp" (AOT) (don't touch this last setting).

These are left to right and written as LFF-LBA-AOT.

1-4-1 means, I believe, that the stove will feed fewer pellets (well less augur on-time) than if things were 4-4-1. If you can set the heat range / blower speed to 1-1, and things keep burning nicely, you can likely leave the bottom settings alone for now.
 
The igniter needs to be pushed in all the way, then pulled back just slightly, say 1/16-1/8". I had same issue after removing mine during a teardown/cleaning, and thought for sure the igniter had given up. Turns out the igniter as in too far, allowing it to contact the body of the stove.
Congrats on the new stove, I have been considering upgrading to a new stove myself, the IP is on the list.
 
mchasal said:
Yup, I had the same problem. Wonder if there was a maladjusted batch or something. The ignitor tube needs to be in close contact with the burnpot. You can read about it here: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/englander-55-trp-ip-s-aka-25-ip-s.113588/page-5#post-1557428
Click to expand...

I tried quickly today after work but I didn't spend much time with it. I had to get outside to clean snow. We're you able to access the igniter from the right side door? Do you happen to know what size hex wrench it was ? Thanks for the help.
 
As that post says, it was tricky and I did go through the back and the side. Honestly, if I were to do it again, I'd probably pull the igniter assembly completely out and adjust the collar little by little with it out of the stove. There's a fair amount of play in the burnpot in the cradle, so you don't really need to get it exact, just so the burn pot hits the igniter tube before it bottoms out on the back of the cradle.

It's a 1/8" allen wrench (from the manual).
 
mchasal said:
As that post says, it was tricky and I did go through the back and the side. Honestly, if I were to do it again, I'd probably pull the igniter assembly completely out and adjust the collar little by little with it out of the stove. There's a fair amount of play in the burnpot in the cradle, so you don't really need to get it exact, just so the burn pot hits the igniter tube before it bottoms out on the back of the cradle.

It's a 1/8" allen wrench (from the manual).
Click to expand...

That's just a set screw that holds the igniter in the sleeve correct? I can feel it I think the collar is naturally up against the back if the chamber where the pot is.. I am hoping I can get it from the right side door.
 
The igniter is a tube that goes through that round collar that is bolted to the back of the stove. The set screw locks the position of the tube within the collar. What you're adjusting is how far the igniter tube protrudes through the collar. Maybe this pic will help:
PU-CH.jpg

That's the setscrew pointing right at the camera. It's on the collar that's bolted to the back wall of the stove. When you loosen that setscrew, you're going to be pushing the tube further through the collar to contact the burnpot.

Good luck doing it through the side door, as I posted, I found that very difficult.
 
mchasal said:
The igniter is a tube that goes through that round collar that is bolted to the back of the stove. The set screw locks the position of the tube within the collar. What you're adjusting is how far the igniter tube protrudes through the collar. Maybe this pic will help:
PU-CH.jpg

That's the setscrew pointing right at the camera. It's on the collar that's bolted to the back wall of the stove. When you loosen that setscrew, you're going to be pushing the tube further through the collar to contact the burnpot.

Good luck doing it through the side door, as I posted, I found that very difficult.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the information it am going to give it a try through the side door. I have the adapter sealed up good and I really don't want to disconnect everything. As best I could feel it seemed that the set screw was facing the right side door. I will give it a try and if I can't get it I will light it with the torch for tonight
 
Just for the record, I didn't need to disconnect the vent pipe. I just unbolted the back panel and that gave me enough clearance to get in there. The back panel can slide back along the adapter and tee and you'll be able to get in. It was just a suggestion for improvement to make that a 2 piece back panel.
 
mchasal said:
Just for the record, I didn't need to disconnect the vent pipe. I just unbolted the back panel and that gave me enough clearance to get in there. The back panel can slide back along the adapter and tee and you'll be able to get in. It was just a suggestion for improvement to make that a 2 piece back panel.
Click to expand...

I ended up taking off the back panel off and I got the problem solved . It lit on its own
 
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