25-PDVC's Original Burn Pot......

Over the last 24 hours I've been making some small changes to the new burn chamber. I've done away with the rope gaskets and replaced them with Lytherm gasket material under the blocking plates at the sides and front, this has improved the burn.



Here are two pictures of the new burn chamber doing it's job with the Lytherm gasket material under the plates at the sides and front.

I've also 99 percent cured the carbon buildup on the auger and the feed tube with this new burn chamber.

chrisasst said:

Just have to keep teasing me don't ya. Lol.

Click to expand...

LOL, you have not seen anything yet ......


Anyway ....




and ...

PoopieBritches said:

No offense, but the burn looks dirty and lazy. Also, what's up with all the noise? Is that the blowers?

Click to expand...

The cheap video camera does not do it justice, this is a problem I've had getting the camera to record what I see, and yes, the blowers are on full belt.

I'll answer each question.

Pete Zahria said:

So Clad.. after these mods you have made, what are all of your settings now?

Click to expand...

This depends on the pellets, some pellets are smaller than others. Some pellets are also lighter in weight than others. For example, the MWP are not as dense as the Natures Own that I have, so the settings will be different for the different brands base on the makeup of the pellet being burned. Also, the MWP are longer in length, so this is also a factor that needs to be accounted for.

The plate in the bottom of the hopper is set at half way open, so the screw is in the middle of the cutout in this plate, this restricts the fuel feed the hopper end.

I will point this out ... My stove has a production date of 2012. The LFF and LBA settings work on all the heat ranges on my stove contrary to what the manual states. Also, my room blower settings can be set to what ever setting I want. I have also noticed that the room blower settings changes the combustion blower speed, the higher the room blower setting, the combustion blower speed is also increased to compensate for the heat that's being ejected from the stove via the room blower setting. As you should all know, the more air injected into a fire, the hotter it burns. The problem with more air is that you have to compensate the other part of the burn factor, this being the fuel, too much fuel and you get a dark yellow-black flame, rich dirty burn, not enough fuel and it becomes too lean and burns with a white flame to it, which is too hot.

The ideal flame is bright yellow with no black tips to it.

Natures Own -- My settings to burn these is 2-(5/6/7)-1 on the lower 3 buttons. Now the middle setting (LBA) is set depending on the heat setting, the higher the heat setting over 5, the LBA needs to be set to 6 or 7 due to the extra fuel that's introduced into the burn chamber.

MWP -- These pellets do not burn as hot as the Natures Own, they are around 50 - 75F cooler.
My settings to burn these are lower on the LBA. The LBA needs to be on 3 or 4 at heat settings 1 - 4 otherwise the burning pellets are thrown out of the burn chamber because the air flow is too fast. With the heat ranges set to 5 - 9 the LBA is anywhere between 4 and 6.

Pete Zahria said:

And heat mode?

Click to expand...

Heat mode 'd'.

Pete Zahria said:

while it is cleaner and all, have you also noticed more heat?

Click to expand...

In a nutshell, yes, the stove is hotter on all the settings.

I should also add that I get an extra 1 - 3 hours (heat setting dependent) of burn time from a bag of fuel now.

The heat readings below are the average heat readings I get with the burn chamber that I have made.

Today, 8 hours in (burn time), stove is in mode 'd', set to 2-6-1 on the lower three buttons, with the stove running at heat 7, blower 8., and this is how the stove looks. The left side of the stove has a temp reading of 540F. The house is at 76F on the lower floor, upstairs it's at 71F with the temp outside at 23F. If I up the heat settings it takes the stove over 580F and beyond. I'm heating just over 1500 square feet.



Tomorrow the glass will be covered in white / grey ash, but only a coating, there will not be any black soot / ash on the glass unless a clinker forms overnight (I've not had a clinker in 8 days).

With the stove set to heat 4, blower 4, the stove gets up to 420F on the left side. This is 70 - 100F more than I would get with the factory burnplate with the same settings.

With the stove set to heat 2, blower 2 the stove gets up to 360 - 380F on the left side.

The stove starts to struggle to heat the house when the outside temp dips below 10F, with the factory burnplate the stove starts to struggle at 17F to keep the house above 68F.

No, and there are no plans to do so for legal reasons.

Prototype 3 ..... https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/question-about-englander.134952/page-3#post-1814841

More detailed pictures. The burn plate has changed, so take note. Measurements can be easy to work out by observation of the parts in the stove in the pictures in the above link.

I will not be making this for anyone, feel free to use the pictures as a base for making your own. Metal sheets can be obtained from HD and Lowes.

When drilling holes in metal, take it slow, slow speed on the drill, too fast and you kill the drill bit.