Englander 25-IPS Finally Installed

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

kmapsrule

Member
Oct 27, 2011
64
Southern Tier, NY
Finally installed the new stove.

Venting is Duravent 3" pipe
(45Deg)->(15"out)->(3'up)
OAK is installed,
Thermostat connection is pending, I want to run this for a few days to get a feel for it before i hook it up.


So far I am very happy with this stove. It is kicking the heat out with the North Americans I've got.
 

Attachments

  • new_stove(1).jpg
    new_stove(1).jpg
    153.1 KB · Views: 622
Last edited:
Very industrial, contemporary design! I think the smoke/CO detector should be further away, to prevent false alerts.
 
Definitely move the detector. The heat from the stove will eventually damage the unit. Had it happen to me and mine was a little further away. No fun for the ten minutes driving home after the neighbor called and said the alarm was going off!
 
Thanks for the Comments, I could move the detector, that is one of the carbon monoxide detectors, theres one at the other end of the room, one in the hallway, one over the basement stairs and one next to the propain boiler in addition to the smoke detectors in the house. That one has been there next to the old stove for 2 years with no issues, but this stove gives off much more heat so i may need to take that advise.
 
Thanks for the Comments, I could move the detector, that is one of the carbon monoxide detectors, theres one at the other end of the room, one in the hallway, one over the basement stairs and one next to the propain boiler in addition to the smoke detectors in the house. That one has been there next to the old stove for 2 years with no issues, but this stove gives off much more heat so i may need to take that advise.


Very nice!! Does that unit have tubes for an exchanger?
 
I don't think it has tubes, at least it doesn't have top tubes like my old stove. And I'm not sure what is behind the back wall. I can take a pic of the fire box when I get home.

Pretty sure it's just a box heat exchanger around the firebox.
 
Page 44 of the manual has an exploded diagram that's pretty informative if you zoom in on it. Firebox is just enclosed within the larger heat exchanger box. The exhaust does go up to the top of the firebox, past the baffle plate and then down through the holes behind the fiberboard and finally out the vent. Not sure if the back of that channel has any features to increase surface area or if they would help. I believe you need to be careful to maintain a high enough temperature in the exhaust to prevent condensation.

http://englanderstoves.com/manuals/25-IP.pdf
 
I don't think it has tubes, at least it doesn't have top tubes like my old stove. And I'm not sure what is behind the back wall. I can take a pic of the fire box when I get home.

Thanks for the info...I am sure it does a good job heating. I am in the market for an additional pellet stove soon so I am exploring all my options. And I really like the Englander philosophy.
 
North American are the 2nd worst pellet....#1 is Lee Energy, #3 is GS.
 
  • Like
Reactions: CTguy9230
i really like the way the IP looks and the huge ash pan is a plus. only 500 more than the 25-PVD im looking at. im partial to bottom feed though. dont know for sure since this will be my first year with pellets
 
I just ordered one of these off Amfm. I really don't know if I really like how it looks yet, but maybe that will grow on me. I am excited about the function of it though.
 
Congrats, it looks great!. I was planning on getting an IP from AM/FM for my second stove but they were out of stock, so I ended up getting an EP locally off Craigslist instead.
 
I just ordered one of these off Amfm. I really don't know if I really like how it looks yet, but maybe that will grow on me. I am excited about the function of it though.
Its a lot Taller than you Expect, But I really like the Hinged side doors, makes maintenance a lot easier
 
I like it! Very modern design. I hope they did something to increase the surface area for heat exchange, even if it's just waffling or 'V's. Don't worry about the exhaust temp. That topic has been beaten to death and it's basically BS. Suck as much heat out before it goes out the flue.
 
Kmapsrule: I am interested in the IP and will be replacing my PDV this year with either the IP or EP. I went to look at one at my HD the other night and was a little concerned about the "door handle". Have you tried to open. The door with the tool when the stove is going or just shutting down? It seems like the latch wanted to open up as I tried to take the tool out...and that was on a cold stove. Seems the tool might bend or strip the hole as its used frequently. I know with my current stove I open at least once a day to scrape the burn pot.
 
I've never had the door pop open and I do open it daily to do a quick scrape while the stove is running. I wouldn't worry about stripping the tool or the hole, it's a pretty sizable hex key and you don't put much force on it at all. I do find the latch "fidgety" since you have to attach the tool every time, and it never feels very positive, but it seems to function properly. I've been tempted to try and figure out a different handle setup, but it hasn't risen to the level of action yet. :)
 
Kmapsrule: I am interested in the IP and will be replacing my PDV this year with either the IP or EP. I went to look at one at my HD the other night and was a little concerned about the "door handle". Have you tried to open. The door with the tool when the stove is going or just shutting down? It seems like the latch wanted to open up as I tried to take the tool out...and that was on a cold stove. Seems the tool might bend or strip the hole as its used frequently. I know with my current stove I open at least once a day to scrape the burn pot.
I've never had it pop open on me like that although I found the door tool 'sticky' in the hole, so I lightly sanded each face of the hex on the end of the tool and wiped it down with some graphite lube, that helps with not applying unwanted force while inserting/removing the tool.
 
The other night I went through my tool box and found a proper size allen key. I stuck the short end in a vise and bent/twisted it until the long end points straight down when the latch is closed, it needed about 30 degrees of counter clockwise rotation. I'm currently leaving that key in the latch all the time. The outer door does hit it and is about 1/4" short of closing completely, but it's not noticeable at all unless you look at the magnet catch on top.
So far it hasn't gotten very warm at all at the end while the stove is running, but the weather is still moderate and the stove isn't going full blast yet. Will have to see how it goes as demand goes up.

The bending process was iffy, was expecting it to break at any moment, and the vice jaws chewed up the end of the key which required filing to get back to something that would fit. The fact that the flats are now twisted limits how far the key will enter the socket on the latch as well. I suppose one could shop around and maybe find a manufacturer whose keys happen to be bent on the proper angle already, or maybe apply some heat and custom bend a straight piece of hex key. If this proof of concept version is workable, I may spend some more effort on improving it.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.