My Damper just broke? EKO 25, what next?

Looks like the nuts just fell off of the threaded stud on it. It should have 2 nuts tightened against each other on that stud to allow some movement on the flap.

You can access it by taking off the panel on top,should be an easy fix,don't use it until you get it fixed though.

The manner in which you asked your question makes me think you don't know the mechanics of those linkages in the exhaust area. If you don't know, I'll do my best to keep from scolding you. At least two or three times per year you should be hanging your face right over that component while cleaning the firetubes and the pipe. If you do brush the tubes on a regular bases what are you looking at? Wouldn't you be inquisitive or curious enough to survey the area to see how things work?

If you haven't cleaned your boiler then your going to get a chance to practice dismantling the panels so take notes because after you re-attach the damper you should be accessing that area to clean your boiler at least one more time before the end of the heating season. For this session you're going to need a flashlight to locate the nut, a wrench and a tube brush.

I hope it did not fall down one of the tubes?

henfruit said:

I hope it did not fall down one of the tubes?

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It would just end up down in the lower chamber in the ashes.Might have to sift thru the ashes to find them.

I pulled a good one a while back. Was looking down the tubes after cleaning and dropped a flashlight down one of the tubes. It was a long flashlight so it wouldn't make the turn and come out the bottom. Finally hooked it from the top with a piece of wire and pulled it out the top.Duh!

wow. havnt cleaned in five years. i thougt i was bad only cleaning once so far this year

I've found a magnet to be pretty handy finding a lost piece of steel -

I cleaned mine for the first time after 3 years of use , there was only a little fly ash in the fire tubes. Now that I've removed the original turbulators and done the chain mod it is much easier to clean. I do it every 2 weeks weather needed or not. That mod makes the cleaning a lot more enjoyable

The nut could possibly be sitting in a pile of fly ash on the ledge where the fire tubes exit.

I can't believe you guys clean your tubes so much. I checked mine after year two and haven't looked back since. There was nothing to speak of in my tubes after two years....zero....zip....unless you include the Robin I found trying to access the tubes one fine fall. The attempt was unsuccessful, unfortunately for her.

I may check them again at 10 years if I absolutely have to.

I have the self cleaning EKO 25. I go in once a year to clean it out. Every time I look down there it seems there is no reason to take it apart or clean. I burn very dry wood though.

I hope you guys are being sarcastic about not cleaning your boilers...?

I burn really dry wood with my Econoburn and storage. My boiler hardly ever idles because I track my wood every day. The required wood goes up to reach the target temps as the boiler use extends after cleaning. After about a month you can see it on the flue temp and output temps. There is no way heat transfer can be as effective through a layer of fly ash.

It also builds up in the box above the fire tubes. This could be more specific to the Econoburn because of lack of control for fan speed.

gg

By the time build-up becomes thick enough on the walls of the tubes for it to make contact with the movable turbulators, you have about ten times the amount of crud as what is necessary for efficient heat transfer. I only get a small amount of fly ash on the tubes but after brushing I can see a noticeable difference in the stack temperature.

I read an article many years ago that pertained to oil boilers but it stated the % drop in heat transfer with the slightest build-up of soot measured in microns. It was huge!

Perhaps those here that have serviced boilers have those numbers or know where to get them.

Now when fred61 says "several years ago" it was probably before most here were born

Rdabate, yes, I have the handle on the sides. I clean once or twice a year. When I clean my tubulators I do it a bit different. Here is what I do and maybe this is why I have stack temps from 300- 355 today. There is a pin holding the cleaning lever on. It fell off so I put a big screw driver in it. This why I can make the tubulators go up and down a lot faster. As I slam down the screw driver the lever goes forward fast and it hits the pipe that stops the lever from goingg all the way around. It slams it real hard and am sure it knocks about everything sticking in the tubes. I have attempted to take this thing apart but it is designed so foolishly it makes me mad and I go stomping away. Maybe come spring I will try it again.

ihookem said:

Here is what I do and maybe this is why I have stack temps from 300- 355 today.

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Is the temperature measured with a magnetic thermometer attached to the exterior of the pipe?

I haven't done the chain mod yet but I think it would be wise for anyone with with anyone with an Eko. Cleaning with the stock parts is a PITA and might be too much for a non mechanical person. With the chain mod and a good brush it sounds like a piece of cake plus your getting the most heat out of your wood.

rkusek said:

I haven't done the chain mod yet but I think it would be wise for anyone with with anyone with an Eko. Cleaning with the stock parts is a PITA and might be too much for a non mechanical person. With the chain mod and a good brush it sounds like a piece of cake plus your getting the most heat out of your wood.

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I'm glad I did it! Tubes are brushed more often as a result. Years prior with the foolish rocking mechanism in place, one brushing during the season was it. Plus wear and tear on the panel anchoring points made me wonder if each cleaning would be the last one that was going to be able to hold the the panels.in place. A sheetmetal screw will only take so many cycles. I can now brush the tubes in less than 10 minutes without getting my hands dirty. (rubber gloves)

I continue to wonder if the manufacturer really thought that mechanism would actually work or did they think that their customer base was so stupid and gullible enough to buy this boiler because of all the hardware they added to make someone believe it is self cleaning.

Turbulators UGH!

Fred61 said:

I'm glad I did it! Tubes are brushed more often as a result. Years prior with the foolish rocking mechanism in place, one brushing during the season was it. Plus wear and tear on the panel anchoring points made me wonder if each cleaning would be the last one that was going to be able to hold the the panels.in place. A sheetmetal screw will only take so many cycles. I can now brush the tubes in less than 10 minutes without getting my hands dirty. (rubber gloves)

I continue to wonder if the manufacturer really thought that mechanism would actually work or did they think that their customer base was so stupid and gullible enough to buy this boiler because of all the hardware they added to make someone believe it is self cleaning.

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The linkage/ turbulator is a really crappy design. It was probably added to knock down some of the ash that gets hung up on the turbulators. There are probably many more users who don't do much cleaning at all, so they probably figured better put something in there to keep it from clogging completely.

I know after having a similar set up for 4 years my boiler selection and suggestions would most likely be different for a new purchase. Problem is every boiler I have read about has some type of issue, nozzles, crappy welds, thin metal, expensive controls, smoke spillage, the list goes on and on. Some owners and dealers here just won't admit it about their boiler.

On the top of my list today for recommendations would be the Froling because it does seem to be the one boiler that has everything covered. The thing to get past would be cost of replacement parts. Seems like an awesome unit, maybe not so awesome if you ever have to replace the controller, O2 sensor, motors or fan.

gg

How much does the chain mod restrict air flow compared to factory twisted turbulators?

With the forced draft EKO does it cause more door leakage?

Did you have to reduce fan settings?

gg

henfruit said:

Turbulators UGH!

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Tools needed to remove door/cover to brush tubes UGH!

You don't need any tools if you use wing nuts on the fire tube access plate.