Clogging SS chimney

Newly returning to wood burning. Been doing it daily now since October, and am having issues with my chimney becoming easily clogged. Apologize for the length of this, but trying to provide as much info ahead of time. Wondering about the root of my problem - is it placement of the house/chimneys? Or is it wood seasoning, the chimney(s), anything else?


This is a two story house. with a gambrel roof, 2 wood stoves (1 on each floor), and 2 SS chimneys. This house was formerly a ski/bike shop w/ an upstairs apartment. Place originally built about 1989, original owners lost it to the bank, it sat vacant for a year or two, we purchased it from the bank.

When we first had this house, we did limited burning in the downstairs wood stove - a Shenandoah. The upstairs is a Vermont Castings Intrepid. During those early years we had a big pile of wood delivered, and all of it too big to burn in the Intrepid.

I am in upstate NY. The house is located at the bottom of the eastern slope of a very high hill. This locale known for being windy, but the house is fairly protected by the hill.

The Shenendoah is on the gable end of the first floor, with a very high SS chimney running well past the top.

The Intrepid is in the center of the 2nd floor, with its SS chimney running straight up through the peak of the roof.

The house is very solid - quite airtight.

Due to various reasons - allergies, divorce, moving away for school, work - I stopped using the wood stoves. However, I had the chimneys checked/cleaned a few years ago. Then again at the end of this past summer. They were almost pristine. The chimney sweep had put chimney caps over the tops of both SS chimneys a few years ago. This year he also installed a damper in the flue of the Shenandoah. The stove had always burned hot and fast, and after reading suggestions on here, and from friends, thought this would help slow it down a little. Also last year, the bottom extension of the Shenandoah's chimney fell off. It ran below the elbow - I guess to allow for easy clean-out/and some accumulation. A local welder/family friend, put a cover back on the opening, but not a new extension.

Had about a face cord of wood cut last year at my neighbors - cut small enough for the Intrepid. Had to buy the rest of my wood from others. Several various individuals. Tried to buy only seasoned. The majority of what I purchased (about 4 cords) was seasoned, but had some odd pieces in it including a lot of small round logs. The wood mostly ash and maple. Bought another face cord of 8 month old ash. And my hunters on my land just cut up about 2 cord of downed trees (fallen 1 & 2 years ago) - oak, maple, ash, even some elm. The latter wood understandably, has been hardly used. (And this past month started logging my land, so now have about 15 cord newly cut/split in a huge pile in my back yard for next year!)

When I started this year, I tried out both stoves. The Shenandoah is not easy, the Intrepid impossible to start. The draft was terrible for the Intrepid. When we purchased this house, the roof - which covers more than half of the front of this house, was very stained below that chimney - almost 1/3 of the roof below it discolored. I had the roof replaced two years ago. Since I am downstairs 95% of the time, I've concentrated on the Shenandoah, and haven't bothered since to use the Intrepid. Have electric baseboard, so only burn when present. But returning to burning wood, a couple of new thermostats, and keeping them at 59 degrees has decreased my electric bill from $900 last December to $300 this December.

I understand all this wood burning has quite the learning curve. And yes, I wasn't burning hot enough. I start my fires with newspaper (not colored ads/inserts) and usually with a starter brick, with the smaller, older logs alongside. A few weeks ago I bought a moisture meter, and am now reading everything I put into that stove. The small round logs are not great at burning, even though they are seasoned. Nor does anything approaching 20% even if I throw it on a hot flame. But the Shenandoah can burn through in under an hour with decent wood. It keeps me busy!

About 3 weeks ago, I started getting some smoke coming more and more into the house when opening the door/starting the fire. Called the chimney sweep who is tied up with a large local commercial account. He advised doing a burn with a large amount of newspaper. Done. Worked ok for a day or two. Then got impossible. Called welder friend. He went out and bought a chimney brush and extensions and opened it up. It was a mess. With especially a large accumulation at about the roof edge He cleaned the length of it for me, and told me I should do it again in another 3 weeks. He also thought the chimney cap was not a great idea for this chimney. And noticed one or two tiny holes on the outside of the chimney close to the bottom. Said I may have to get it replaced in the near future, but it should be ok for now. :-( He also said the stainless steel chimneys had to have only very well seasoned wood??

Well, now 2 weeks later, it's already getting smokey when I open up that door again. I've hardly used the damper since, and kept the air input almost wide open the past week. Have tried to use only the best wood, but am running low on anything with almost no moisture.

Am about to head out after our new 10" of snow and attempt to do another cleaning.

I thought our chimney sweep was the cat's meow. But now not so sure about his advice. And wondering about the chimney caps.

And believe perhaps the location of this house isn't forgiving to keeping fires going easily. But having to clean the chimney every 2-3 weeks? Is that normal?!?

(PS At the beginning of the season, my hunter friends suggested I burn a chimney cleaning log about once a month, but then I read it doesn't do much past the elbow. True/false? Would it help?)

Thanks to all who stayed with me. Would love any advice. Also if down the road I should have the chimney replaced by local builders, or go to a stove specialist. Been really trying to be frugal. It's tough!

Thanks, DAKSY - been trying to stay to the driest wood - why I now have the moisture meter, and bring wood in to burn a couple days ahead, which I've always done anyway. Read to make sure it's under 20%, but wood at that level hasn't done well. Been trying to stay at 14% or less.

Tried cleaning the chimney just now - the flimsy extensions only allowed me to push the brush up about 15 feet. My welder had sturdier ones. Called him about where to find them - they don't make them anymore, so he's going to make me one for the bottom. He's a good guy.

Called the chimney sweep. He's coming out tomorrow. Agrees the chimney cap could be a problem

Chimney sweep, who lives about an hour away, says it's unusual to have to be cleaned out more than 2x a year.
Welder, who lives nearby, says it's typical in our area to have to clean out chimneys every couple of weeks. Does any of that have to do with the wind we get?!? The heavy snow? My being at the foot of a mountain?

See why I need this forum? ;-)

Thanks, Blades - this is very helpful. And thanks for the welcome.

I've only tested the moisture on the splits from the old downed trees, but have hardly used any - maybe a half dozen at most all season.
Been using most of the "seasoned" wood I bought. That's what I regularly measure. I have a feeling the screen is the type to keep out animals - and hopefully will be down tomorrow when the chimney sweep shows up.
The flue on the Intrepid comes right out in the center of the peak. But considering all the staining on the roof from years prior to my ownership, I think it was an issue all along.

Here are photos. First two before the new roof put on. The Intrepid's chimney is in the center, Shenandoah's on the end. Third with the new roof. Last photo to give some idea of what a winter can be like here, and how surrounded the house is by the hill above, which goes much higher than the photo shows.

Wow, Corey. Great information. Thanks so much!

Chimney sweep has come and gone today. Didn't want to take the cap off. His front wheel drive van couldn't make it up my driveway so he wouldn't bring the ladder up even though I offered to help. Cleaned the chimney again, and said he'd leave his rods and brushes here. But my welder friend is already making me sturdier rods. Sweep also didn't remember that he had installed the cap a few years ago. "All I'll have to do" is clean the chimney myself when needed for the rest of the winter. :-( And maybe he'll take the cap off in the spring, but thinks it may make the draft worse being wide open? He's also recommending getting my new brush trimmed to make cleaning easier? (Welder friend thinks that's poor advice - defeats the purpose...)

Think the sweep just didn't want to bother removing that cap on a cold day with a foot of snow on the ground... Understand safety wise, but he offered yesterday. He agrees the cap might be an impediment, but oh, well... :-(

Started a new fire after he left. To me, it still wasn't burning well early in the fire - with logs that are supposedly seasoned, relatively small, dry (under 14%) and split. Yes - I'm thinking the wood maybe still isn't seasoned as well as it could be. This is 10 month old Ash. But wood from this batch had burned well before... All wood seems to turn black before really catching in the beginning of the fire. Maybe this is an ignorant observation. But just seems that previously it didn't look like it was smoldering first, and then catching.

40 minutes later, the fire is finally really roaring. And needing more wood. It does use a lot.


I have a feeling the extension on the chimney that fell off was a big help for whatever this model is. I asked the sweep how the chimney is made. SS on the outside, insulated, then SS on the inside.

The reason the extension couldn't be put back on last year was because it had rusted out/corroded around where it joins, and had fallen off, laden with several inches of heavy thick junk. I hadn't used the stove for a few years before that happened.

Who knows how the hole on the outside of the chimney got there. It is visible from the ground - probably around a 1/3" - about 9 feet up from the ground. Sweep says it's only on the outside layer, though. Doesn't go through to the middle.

Corey, I did try opening the front door, and it did not seem to change how fast it burned.

Well, this sweep is not my knight in shining armor. He's a local fellow, well known, and used by big commercial accounts, fancy houses. But I agree his knowledge - not dissimilar to some others out here in the boonies. When I asked his recommendation about maximum moisture content of wood for stainless steel chimneys, he didn't have a clue. He said, well, you got to burn the wood you have here, right?

I just called a stove retailer for the name of someone who could do stainless steel chimney work, and was given the name of a new chimney sweep?

So think it boils down to I have a sensitive, older chimney, that I can only burn the best wood in. And/or the cap needs to be removed, and/or the extension put back on.

Thanks again for following the next chapter.

As an aside, I am now nervous about using the damper - worrying about increasing creosote. I'm leaving the damper open, and adjusting the fire down within the best temperature range for operation with the air intake. Agree? Do I dare use the damper at all?

Also, in response to the comments that the center chimney should draft better than the one on the gable end - the Intrepid on the 2nd floor in the middle is a very small stove. This Shenandoah at the end of the house on the first floor much larger. Does that change how a chimney might draft?

Thanks for the info, bholler. The air control works fine. Just had the damper added this year to try to slow down the burn, but I'd rather not use it if it increases any build-up of creosote.

So new chimney sweep stopped by yesterday, to give an opinion on the chimney, and will be writing up an estimate to possibly have it replaced in spring.
First thing he observed, the plate the welder fashioned to go across the bottom when the lower section fell off is not insulated - so right there would be an issue with it drawing properly. And agrees the hole further up means it's deteriorating within as moisture goes into the insulation.
He also thinks it's just a tad bit short. And that the cap isn't bad, but it's not really meant for this chimney, and yes - could be why it's closing up. If the chimney starts closing up again soon, I'm having this fellow out to remove the cap.
He also noted the height of the hill (mountain to some!) behind my house - another reason the chimneys would not draw well.
He believes the chimney would have had a lifetime warranty. Found out who installed it 25 years ago, but they have no paperwork of course, and neither do we having bought the house from the bank. But it should not be too much of a job to install the new one - since I'll just continue to use the outside chimney, and the brackets are attached well and can be used for another. So labor should be minimal.
He's also suggesting I look into a new stove. Turns out mine does not have a catalytic converter (not sure why I thought mine did...). And of course, the newer ones are so much more efficient. My Shenandoah is such a wood hog. They deal in Jotul and Harman. So guess I'll be thinking about that in the near future - if I keep this place. The idea of leaving the stove running, after all the work I've put into wood this year - is sounding very appealing!

Oh, and Corey - what has been coming out of the chimney has been dry/flaky material. But it has been just jammed in a couple of spots. worse at the roof line. When the bottom of the chimney fell off last year, it had about 8" of thick gooey solid matter in the bottom. But we hadn't used the stove/chimney for probably 8 years beforehand. I wouldn't be surprised if it was left from years before, and water just seeped in over time. It was rusted/corroded around the edges where it joined the rest of the chimney. When if fell and hit the ground, it was so heavy it made the house shake. I eventually took it to the dump and wouldn't be surprised if it weighed a good 20 pounds, packed into that narrow cylinder.

Thanks, Corey. Your information is valuable and really interesting. Appreciate being able to understand what's happened.