PelletMaster Pm 3000 Owners

mtalea said:

ok I will make sure the horizontal is pitched up.should I but more pipe for the outside vertical run?

and how do I support the pipe when going up so high?

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Like i said the MORE PIPE the better

You can used a T bracked on the eve or some 1/2" metal EMT x 2 and flaten the ends and screw to the roof and to the pipe
like this.
http://www.hearthtools.com/install/iccpipe.jpg

bfraymond said:

homefire said:

If you have a good supplier of pellets or corn then use them.
Coal has 1 + 2/3 the btu's of wood or corn but you have to clean the stove more often and
empty the ash pan everyday to keep it from overflowing.

I burn corn + pellets mixed at about 50/ 50 but the stove burn almost anything that will fit through the auger.

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I think I saw a thread on this, but let me ask you anyway. Sometimes after I shut the stove off. The fire will eventually die out, yet it seems to smolder back up the auger to the hopper. The pellets are usaully charred and the hopper is hot and filled with smoke. The seal on the doors and the hopper gasket seem to be in good shape. Is there any other way air could get in there, or any reason you can think of that this would be doing this. Like I have said I have only run the stove a handful of times, so I am still trying to get my arms around how it performs/operates. You and Ron have been very helpful. I appreciate your input.

Brent

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for smoke to get back there you have to have airflow through there , otherwise it wouldnt venture there. any air leak will do it under the right circumstances.the more negative pressure buildup in the home , the more likely it will do so provided there is a leak large enough to allow the negative pressure from the house to pull it away from the draft of the chimney. with a "blown unit" (positive draft unit where air is forced into rather than pulled through the burn chamber) overpressure can do it as well. overpressure can come from either too much combustion air in , or too weak a draft leaving. this can force the smoke to find another outlet (again a small leak in the feed system can cause it) usually though you will detect an odor of smoke while running. while im not familiar with this brand , we at ESW used to build a model that was similar (although it was a dual auger feed system) areas to check for the leak are , the hopper lid gasket (you already did that , also the bottom of the auger shaft where it mates to the motor, and a biggie, the seams where the hopper (bin) which should have been made of several pieces of sheet steel that are mated together we seal our seams with silicone to prevent leakage , other comapnies probably have their own way of doing it , so silicone may or may not be what was used for your unit. bottom line though, if the feed system is sealed , its like putting a cork in a bottle , no airflow to pull the smoke back there.

Pellet master is a True bottom feed systems

with the auger coming up from the bottom in an angle
If the hopper is not sealed Some smoke will go into the hopper.

it is also a Positive Combustion air system. Pushing Combustion air into the burn pot and into the venturi tube in the Flue.
NO NEGATIVE DRAFT BLOWER.

Also if the Ash pan or the door gasket leaks you will get smell also.
see cutawy here
Pellet master page

that is a pretty neat system , first ive seen of it exactly like that , i was just applying what i know about our old positive draft stove we used to make (25-pfs) seemed similar enough that some of the principals would hold. looking back im not sure how this thread popped back up but im glad it did , interesting stove. looks like you know it pretty darn well too rod. i enjoyed reading the article that was linked in with the pictures.

mike ESW

Your had fun reading my trouble shooting page
A lot of people like to have fun with my typo's and misspelled words.

stoveguy2esw said:

... looking back im not sure how this thread popped back up but im glad it did , interesting stove. ...

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Stoveguy2esw,
I may be responsible for this thread re-surfacing. Check out the post/thread (below) from a new member that was interested in this stove. I did a search and found this thread for him. It doesn't look like he's posted here so I'm wondering if simply linking the old thread to the new one was enough to make it pop up.

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/8860/

I'm sure the new member would appreciate any feedback on whether this would be a good purchase for the price. If I were him I'd be wondering about parts availability.
~Cath

Cath,

Thank you very much...I appreciate you re-surfacing this thread. If anyone has more info that could help me make a good decision I would appreciate it.

Thanks,
Scott

I posted answers in the other thread.

Looking for a new stove to replace my PM 3000. Any thoughts, recommendations. I don't fell that this stove is running effectiently enough. I don't know if it is the stove in particular or the make. I am located around Albany, NY.

Thanks,
Brent

The P3000 Titain was a smaller model of the Pellet masters at 32,000 BTU
I was not a big fan of it because of the Blower motors packed into a small area but we have a lot of them still running in this area.

Rod, I have a question that you might be able to help me with. I just thoroughly cleaned my stove, vacuumed it out, used an air compressor to blow any dust out of hard to reach places, ect. I fired it up to days ago and i have a good flame, but it is not putting off hot air, just warm. Is there anything you can think of that would be leading to this? The thin fire bricks that were in there did break, what that cause this? Doesn't seem like it should but I would appreciate any advice you have to get this PM 3000 running at full bore.

Thanks,
Brent

bfraymond said:

Rod, I have a question that you might be able to help me with. I just thoroughly cleaned my stove, vacuumed it out, used an air compressor to blow any dust out of hard to reach places, ect. I fired it up to days ago and i have a good flame, but it is not putting off hot air, just warm. Is there anything you can think of that would be leading to this? The thin fire bricks that were in there did break, what that cause this? Doesn't seem like it should but I would appreciate any advice you have to get this PM 3000 running at full bore.

Thanks,
Brent

Click to expand...

I think I need a little more info
You say not putting much hot air.
Do you mean the blower is running slow?
If it the blower then you might have turned down the Rehostat for the low blower speed down when you where cleaning.

or the Pellet feed is running low?
If so check the thermostat connection. If you dont have a stat make sure the two small stat wires at the back of the stove are Jump together.

If all that is good and it is staying in Keepfire mode(low fire) check the Over heat sensor that trips the same circuit as the thermostat to put it in keep fire.

Most of the trouble shooting on my website will help figure this out by checking feed times and such.

http://www.hearthtools.com/pellet/service_tips_and_trouble_shootin.htm

hearthtools said:

bfraymond said:

Rod, I have a question that you might be able to help me with. I just thoroughly cleaned my stove, vacuumed it out, used an air compressor to blow any dust out of hard to reach places, ect. I fired it up to days ago and i have a good flame, but it is not putting off hot air, just warm. Is there anything you can think of that would be leading to this? The thin fire bricks that were in there did break, what that cause this? Doesn't seem like it should but I would appreciate any advice you have to get this PM 3000 running at full bore.

Thanks,
Brent

Click to expand...

I think I need a little more info
You say not putting much hot air.
Do you mean the blower is running slow?
If it the blower then you might have turned down the Rehostat for the low blower speed down when you where cleaning.

or the Pellet feed is running low?
If so check the thermostat connection. If you dont have a stat make sure the two small stat wires at the back of the stove are Jump together.

If all that is good and it is staying in Keepfire mode(low fire) check the Over heat sensor that trips the same circuit as the thermostat to put it in keep fire.

Most of the trouble shooting on my website will help figure this out by checking feed times and such.

http://www.hearthtools.com/pellet/service_tips_and_trouble_shootin.htm

Click to expand...

Sorry, I misspoke. Air just doesn't seem to be hot enough. The quantity of air is ok, and the blower is fine. The feed rate seems to be ok too.

Brent

Not sure
Time your feed rate ON high with the Thermostat calling for heat or the wires together.
See if you are getting around 15 to 17 seconds of feed every 3 seconds.
This will give you 3.5 to 4.5 #'s per hour of fuel depending on size of pellets.

If you are feeding at that rate and it still feels cool then it must be the BTU per pound of pellets are low.

Getting an uneven burn. Looking at the stove the left side of the pot is burning correctly and right side is not burning all the way down, causing unburned pellets to fall into collection bin. The bin is filling way to quickly with unburned pellets. Because of this only warm is being circulated into room. Can't turn on higher setting as this would only compound the problem.

Any thoughts? All are appreciated.

Brent

Unburned pellets in the pellet master is from Incomplete combustion
Air intake screen on the blower is dirty
Bad blower
Bocked flue
Air slits in the burn pot need to be cleared
Air tube to the burn pot on set
see the http://www.hearthtools.com/pellet/service_tips_and_trouble_shootin.htm

hearthtools said:

Unburned pellets in the pellet master is from Incomplete combustion
Air intake screen on the blower is dirty
Bad blower
Bocked flue
Air slits in the burn pot need to be cleared
Air tube to the burn pot on set
see the http://www.hearthtools.com/pellet/service_tips_and_trouble_shootin.htm

Click to expand...

Thanks Rod. It appeared to be the intake screen was dirty. Thanks for your assistance. You've been an help as I get to know this stove.

Brent