BTU's on JOTUL vs BK.

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neumsky

neumsky

Minister of Fire
Dec 25, 2011
629
Oklahoma City
Ok...season #2 on JOTUL 500. Tired of filling up with wood every 3-4 hours to keep temp up and ashes always coming out. Love the stove as it is aesthetically pleasing...and the stove is perfect for the size output of the house. 2200 sq ft. I'm hearing all the bragging about the long burns the BK's give so it's got my interest. My questions are...why the high BTU's input/output on the BK's?(400+thousand) vs. 70 thousand on the JOTUL? Will this be too much stove for my house than? And...what size would I consider? I love the glass size on the JOTUL...and if I have to run the BK on low all the time...will the glass be forever dirty?
 
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The high btu input number represents a full firebox of wood. That is the potential output of the load. Read elsewhere in the specs for btu/hr outputs.

The bk glass will be forever dirty. At least part of the window. You will always be able to see a flame through the glass if there is one present so it's not like black paint but it is not crystal clear either.

Always get the biggest BK you can. These things have thermostats and all make about the same output on low, just longer burn times for a larger stove. The king requires an 8" flue. The rest only 6".
 
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Are you loading your Oslo through the front door? That is the only time I notice any ash spillage, and I only open it to clean the glass. I heat over 3,000 square feet with my stove in MN, so I have to wonder if your house might have other issues.
 
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Just coog said:
Are you loading your Oslo through the front door? That is the only time I notice any ash spillage, and I only open it to clean the glass. I heat over 3,000 square feet with my stove in MN, so I have to wonder if your house might have other issues.
Click to expand...

I'm guessing from the avatar that side loading is kinda tough.
 
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You are only getting 3 or 4 hrs? I think you have other problems........
 
If you change again will this be your third stove in three years?
 
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Seems like you should be getting 6 to 8 hours a load with that stove in Oklahoma. Maybe you have too much draft or a bad seal? EPA tube stoves like yours won't "burn" for 6 to 8 hours, but it will produce decent heat for that amount of time. Maybe not much towards the end though.

You can keep the glass on a Blaze King clean. Mine hasn't been cleaned once this season and it is quite clean. You simply need to run it on medium burn rather than low. I need the BTU's in my Minnesota home and constantly run on medium this time of year. I get 12 hour burn cycles with great heat the whole time. In the spring (once temps are over 25 at night) I'll go back to 24 hour burn cycles.

You probably already have a 6 inch flue, so one of the 30 size Blaze Kings would work well for you. Maybe a Chinook 30?
 
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I run an Oslo as well as a Blaze King Ashford. You should be getting closer to 8 hours with the Oslo, as others have said. I suspect an issue as well.
On high, my BK will burn twice as long as the Oslo! On low, 4-5 times. I love them both, but they are two totally different stoves. My Ashford has very clean glass! On average, the cleanest of any stoves I have ran. The Ashford, Sirrico, and the chinook are going to have the cleanest glass out of the BK line up. You would not be disappointed with a BK, but you should also be doing much better with the Oslo.
 
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Bigg_Redd said:
Just out of curiosity: why did you get rid of the PE?
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I had chipping problems with the enamel...more so with the reps getting me out the wrong color thereafter...they dragged their feet too long...albeit...thought it was a great stove.
 
webby3650 said:
I run an Oslo as well as a Blaze King Ashford. You should be getting closer to 8 hours with the Oslo, as others have said. I suspect an issue as well.
On high, my BK will burn twice as long as the Oslo! On low, 4-5 times. I love them both, but they are two totally different stoves. My Ashford has very clean glass! On average, the cleanest of any stoves I have ran. The Ashford, Sirrico, and the chinook are going to have the cleanest glass out of the BK line up. You would not be disappointed with a BK, but you should also be doing much better with the Oslo.
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I'm going to assume you also have a problem with ashes coming out of the front door as well? As I here the ashford has a shallow base as the Oslo does?
 
jeff_t said:
I'm guessing from the avatar that side loading is kinda tough.
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I DO use the side door...even tho it's against usage criteria. But still get ash even out of it.
 
I think I need to clarify something....I get about 3 hours at a good burn temp of around 400 to 700 degrees. A guy from Blaze King said he'd love to sell me a stove...but he thought maybe I was burning to wet of wood. He said he'd get me a princess for 2000.00
 
Just coog said:
Are you loading your Oslo through the front door? That is the only time I notice any ash spillage, and I only open it to clean the glass. I heat over 3,000 square feet with my stove in MN, so I have to wonder if your house might have other issues.
Click to expand...
The problem is not the heating of our 2200 sq ft...it has to do with having to load every coupala hours to keep the temp up.
 
Question...does drier wood burn longer?
 
Either one with the base or legs...but I think the one with the legs I would than have to get the ashpan. Which I think was 179 dollars more. Darn near 500 for a colored door?
 
I wouldn't be concerned with the ash pan, but that is my opinion.

I'm not impressed with the gold door on my sister's stove, but it is nine years old. The finish tarnishes quickly and looks splotchy.

Did the $2k include a black door?

Definitely pay extra for the blowers.
 
neumsky said:
Question...does drier wood burn longer?
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My house was built in 1860. I gutted it and foamed the walls with Icynene.it also has all new Marvin windows. The wood that I burn was cut in the late 70's (a long story). We were up there in January, when the overnight temps were -20*. The high was near zero each day. I can't say if the drier wood burned longer, but even in those cold temps we could only put a couple of splits in at a time or we would roast. I loaded the stove each night to about 80% full and had 6" of coals 8 hours later. I don't want to tell you that the Jotul is the best there is, because I don't know. I like the look, and it works for us. You absolutely need an ash rake to keep the ashes out of the firebox or they will build up and spill out the door. If the new stove calls to you, I say do it. The Jotul has a good resale value and, in a house like mine, work quite well.
 
jeff_t said:
I wouldn't be concerned with the ash pan, but that is my opinion.

I'm not impressed with the gold door on my sister's stove, but it is nine years old. The finish tarnishes quickly and looks splotchy.

Did the $2k include a black door?

Definitely pay extra for the blowers.
Click to expand...
Yes...it included the black door
 
Just coog said:
My house was built in 1860. I gutted it and foamed the walls with Icynene.it also has all new Marvin windows. The wood that I burn was cut in the late 70's (a long story). We were up there in January, when the overnight temps were -20*. The high was near zero each day. I can't say if the drier wood burned longer, but even in those cold temps we could only put a couple of splits in at a time or we would roast. I loaded the stove each night to about 80% full and had 6" of coals 8 hours later. I don't want to tell you that the Jotul is the best there is, because I don't know. I like the look, and it works for us. You absolutely need an ash rake to keep the ashes out of the firebox or they will build up and spill out the door. If the new stove calls to you, I say do it. The Jotul has a good resale value and, in a house like mine, work quite well.
Click to expand...
Thank You!
 
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