Need some help with a New Buck Gas Fired Propane insert

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ylomnstr

ylomnstr

Feeling the Heat
May 28, 2008
348
Staatsburg, NY
I purchased my house 2 years ago. The basement has a fireplace with a New Buck propane insert model 61TV. I'm attaching some pictures of the stove and the connection for the propane tank. I'm wondering if I can just purchase a tank and fill it so that I don't have to sign any contracts. Couple of questions:

1) With the photo of the outdoor connection, that doesn't look like a normal propane connection. Does that have to be replaced?
2) The stove itself has a very ugly liner around it as you can see. Can I buy a replacement that actually has some style instead of the flat metal surrounding?
 

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ylomnstr said:
I purchased my house 2 years ago. The basement has a fireplace with a New Buck propane insert model 61TV. I'm attaching some pictures of the stove and the connection for the propane tank. I'm wondering if I can just purchase a tank and fill it so that I don't have to sign any contracts. Couple of questions:

1) With the photo of the outdoor connection, that doesn't look like a normal propane connection. Does that have to be replaced?
2) The stove itself has a very ugly liner around it as you can see. Can I buy a replacement that actually has some style instead of the flat metal surrounding?
Click to expand...

Well, if it was MY house, I'd replace the entire line with CSS & put a flange fitting on the outside.
Then make the connection from your new tank with copper running to the flange fitting...
I'm sure you can pressure test the copper line to make sure it was sound, but I'd replace it.
Any idea how old that appliance is? It might be better to replace THAT too.
You'll have a new unit that's probably more efficient & SAFER, as well...
No telling what condition the gaskets & seals are in, & the LAST thing you want
to do is wake up dead in the morning because of a CO leak...
Just my $.02...
 
I don't have to sign any contracts with my LP place and pay no rental on the tank. Call them and find out who and what. I would also get rid of that stove it looks bad or at least pull it out and check everything and maybe a paintjob to spice it up. Is that gas line copper?? if not then replace with copper. The end of your line needs to be attached to a regulator and that attaches to the tank thats why it looks different.
 
That is a standard flared connection. Cant tell if its 5/8 or 1/2" soft copper tubing there. That would be attached to a two stage regulator. Depending on the reg, it may come with 1/2" female threads. You would then purchase a 1/2" male by ?" flare. From the reg to the tank it can be done in different ways. By the questions you are asking it sounds like a Qualified TQd gas-fitter is in order for you to have it done safely. At this time he can check out and test your existing piping, your appliance and venting to make sure its in proper working order. If that propane line has been left open like that it is more than likely that bugs have made a home in there as they love the smell of mercapton (sp) which is the ingredient that gives propane its smell. It also may have been collecting moisture which could of also migrated to your gas valve and caused internal corrosion on the aluminum body that they are made of which can affect tight shut off etc... for its safe operation. I hope you are ya picken up what Iam layin down...? ;-) Good luck
N of 60.
 
Looks like you could hook it up to a LP tank no probs, just need a regulator. You could use it like that for now, but I would make plans and save up to replace the whole setup. Is that old surround panel duct taped to the wall?
 
OK so I'm in the midst of finishing my basement, and I want to bring this issue back up. When I bought the house 2 or so years ago, the insert was serviced, and it seemed to be running fine, so I don't really want to replace it unless I have to. I've since removed the old copper line and put in 1/2" black steel. What I'd like to know is, isn't there a way to run the line directly through the back of the fireplace so that I don't have to have the pipe showing in the room? Even if I do replace the insert, wouldn't a new one allow me to hide the pipe?

Also, the surrounding on the insert is removeable. I'm assuming I can find something that will look better. Does the insert need to be totally sealed around the opening of the fire place?
 
ylomnstr said:
OK so I'm in the midst of finishing my basement, and I want to bring this issue back up. When I bought the house 2 or so years ago, the insert was serviced, and it seemed to be running fine, so I don't really want to replace it unless I have to. I've since removed the old copper line and put in 1/2" black steel. What I'd like to know is, isn't there a way to run the line directly through the back of the fireplace so that I don't have to have the pipe showing in the room? Even if I do replace the insert, wouldn't a new one allow me to hide the pipe?

Also, the surrounding on the insert is removeable. I'm assuming I can find something that will look better. Does the insert need to be totally sealed around the opening of the fire place?
Click to expand...

You can bring the gas line right thru the sides (or rear) of the fireplace.
You just need the right tool(s) to make the hole(s).
The surround is there to seal & hide the opening around the insert &
hide the sides of the insert itself - which are not aesthetically pleasing to look at.
If you jam some unfaced fiberglas insulation around your liner(s) in the damper
area, any cold air penetration thru the chimney will be minimized, & you can
probably fabricate a surround that will look a lot better than what you have now.
 
DAKSY said:
ylomnstr said:
I wonder if the code in NY requires me to have a shut off valve inside the house?
Click to expand...

Yep. Best place is right next to the gas valve under the unit...
Click to expand...
does current code require double flare? maybe a liner for new install? permit & inspection + install by certified pro?
I'd buy some CO detectors & paint the jewel. + install a damper in the exhaust flue so when it aint running it aint drafting. i'm guessing its a natural draft stove which has an air gap on back where it connects to the fluepipe
 
Just wanted to post an update about this. I got the stove hooked up yesterday. New line was run, and it's working great. The stove has sat for about 3 years with no use, and I notice when it's on and the blower is on, that there's a very musty smell. I'm assuming that's from sitting for so long, but do you think this will go away with an extended run time? I'm going to post more pictures also as soon as I'm done cleaning the area back up.
 
Here are some updated photos. I'm assuming this is a b-vent system correct? Since there's only one output going up the chimney? Just wondering as I'll probably be replacing this in the next year or two, but for now, it does the job.
 

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Hi guys. I wanted to resurrect this post as I'm thinking about replacing this propane stove. Is there anything out there that I can use the existing pipe? I don't want to spend a lot for this stove as it's for a small basement play area and will only run occasionally. Suggestions??
 
B-vent free-standing units are still available, & should hook right to your liner with the correct adapter(s). Not sure what BTU rating of that old Buck insert is, but I would look for a stove with at LEAST that rating if not higher. When you had it running, did it heat the area adequately?
 
Yes it heated the area very well. I spoke to my father in law who told me that if I just replace the regulator, it will probably work fine. The stove works great when it's on, but it doesn't kick on without me banging the regulator, and it's taking more and more bangs to get it going lol. Also now, if I bang it too many times or too hard, the pilot goes out. So if I could find the regulator, perhaps I can get a few more years out of it.
 
some direct vent inserts dont require a full intake(outside air) liner, and so could work with your existing piping.
alot of DV insert now use 3" for the vent though....

i'd suggest just making the plunge to direct vent, it will keep the piping from venting house air all the time (in use or not) the way b-vents do...
 
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