Choosing an axe / maul size.

TheLastDeadMouse said:

I've decided I'm going to treat myself to a bit of a luxury and buy a Gransfors Bruks splitting axe or maul. (I understand its not the most cost effective way to split wood, I'm investing a small portion of the money I've saved burning wood on something I'll enjoy).

Although I have a decent amount of axe experience from my teens, I haven't used one much since then (currently 28). I'm trying to decide what axe weight / length / type is most appropriate for me. I understand this is largely user preference, but I'm hoping people can share their experiences as a starting point for me. 6'2", 195 lbs, average fitness level. The stuff I'll be splitting will probably never be significantly larger than 18" - 20" rounds, perhaps a rare 24".

The two choices I'm looking at now are the large splitting axe and the splitting maul

Large Splitting Axe: 3.5 lbs head, 27.5" handle.

Splitting Maul: 5.5 lbs head, 31.5" handle.

If I like the splitting axe or maul as much as review have lead to believe, I may also get a felling axe that will be used occasionally for its intended purpose, but also as a decoration. It'll be used for tree's anywhere from 8" - 24" Trying to decide between the Scandinavian Forest Axe and American Felling Axe

Scandinavian: 2 lbs head, 25" handle

American Felling: 3.3 lbs head, 32" or 35.5" handle.

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tfdchief said:

Wow, I have been splitting wood for a long time with a variety of tools and I have to say, these are some fine looking tools. I have had Stolz Monster mauls, generic mauls, fiskars, and the list goes on, but those are some fine looking tools. I know I am going to get beat up here, but I have always loved a finely made tool, and these certainly look to be good ones!

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jotul8e2 said:

Of the two components in the energy required to split wood, velocity (head speed) and mass, velocity is the most important. So you want to be able to whip around whatever maul you use, and not just once but for round after round. Of course, if you have the upper body strength and stamina, more mass will help. I am thinking you would probably like an eight pound maul, give or take. I simply cannot swing an eight pounder fast enough, so I prefer my Stilh 6.6 pound. I have a couple of grand nephews - both 6'3" high school athletes - who prefer a 12 pound maul.

I have to say I like the looks of Council Tools products, from North Carolina. Like http://www.counciltool.com/product.asp?pg=product&item=80MA

You only regret buying quality once and that briefly, but you can enjoy guality for a lifetime.

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Joful said:

I think that metal collar near the head would be a source of constant frustration, for me. When considering any hand tool refined over hundreds of years of very heavy usage, I'm very skeptical of any recent addition or modification made by modern occasional users, who might not benefit from the wisdom of those who used these tools all day every day in generations past.

Yes, I know this company has been making axes and mauls for 100 years, but the guy who came up with that sheetmetal collar probably wasn't there that entire time. Anyone old enough to remember when axes were made and used in high volume for forestry work is now retired.

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Ehouse said:

I think the whipping around of a light weight axe/maul style of splitting is dangerous. I prefer a much more vertical motion using my strength for lifting a heavier tool and dropping it straight down through the wood, bending the knees slightly and bringing the handle level with the head at impact. Each stroke is much more predictable, and an easy rhythm with no ricochets is achieved. I also vote for wooden handled tools being pleasant to use and because I like to hang my own handles.

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Ehouse said:

I'm suspicious of that collar as well. Harder to affix a new handle and would foster dry rot.

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razerface said:

it is most likely there to try and survive a missed swing or hard wood rub going thru the wood.

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Joful said:

...I could clip the wings off a fly with my favorite 8 lb. maul, without hurting him...

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Joful said:

I think that metal collar near the head would be a source of constant frustration, for me. When considering any hand tool refined over hundreds of years of very heavy usage, I'm very skeptical of any recent addition or modification made by modern occasional users, who might not benefit from the wisdom of those who used these tools all day every day in generations past.

Yes, I know this company has been making axes and mauls for 100 years, but the guy who came up with that sheetmetal collar probably wasn't there that entire time. Anyone old enough to remember when axes were made and used in high volume for forestry work is now retired.

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Makers Mark said:

The metal collars have saved the handles on mine several times. Wood doesn't always split straight and beer equals aim maybe off. Coming from someone who has bought umpteen handles over past 30 yrs.

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