how many caddy owners

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newyorker

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Feb 6, 2014
159
Geneva,ny
Well I was looking at a Englander 28-3500 then I came across the drolet tundra for a few hundred more which is somewhat of a caddy knockoff then I got thinking jez is the caddy just the way to go its a big price diffrence but over the cost of 20yrs not so much I've been burning wood for six years I'm pretty well seasoned this would be my first furnace It would be a caddy wood only with blower
 
I don't remember any of the details, what is the size of your home, and how well is it insulated? There's many users of the Tundra that are very happy. Both furnaces share the same firebox, but there's a better quality in the Caddy. For the price, the Tundra is hard to beat.
 
2200 sq ft house r21 walls r38 ceilings I can get tundra for 1650 or caddy with blower for 2400
 
Can you explain ash removal I'm caddy I hear tundra has a plug
 
It's kinda the same thing, but there's not a plug. It's a cast iron grate the size of a firebrick, covered with a 1/4" steel plate. You use the poker, grab the plate by the eyelet, then rake the ash into the ashpan. Once done, just place the cover back on the grate. I usually wait a few days then dump the ash from the pan since it's sealed to the furnace. Like most people, it's easier to just shovel, but the grate is also nice if your looking for coals. In the shoulder season I use the grate.

As for size, the Caddy will put out more heat than the Tundra, but it sounds like you shouldn't have a problem with the home your describing. With the price you can get the Caddy for, it's worth the extra.
 
I really appreciate your input I'm leaning toward the caddy just big coin think they last 20 plus years?
 
Do some research on the Kuuma Vapor-Fire. 25 yr firebox warranty, fewer emissions, and proven efficiency numbers with the actual tests posted right on the website. It's nearly impossible to burn wood any safer or easier!!
 
I have they look leaps and bounds ahead of the rest and made in the USA it huge just doesn't fit in the budget at nearly double the price
 
I wouldn't go as far to say leaps and bounds ahead of others. From an efficiency standpoint, users from the Kuuma, Caddy, Tundra, etc. all report flue temps within the same range and clean burns. Whether a unit has 1 gram of smoke per hour or 7, there's a huge improvement over a standard wood furnace producing 30 grams or more per hour. The new furnaces are showing longer burns and a more consistent output, reducing harsh temperature swings.

There's no reason a Caddy wouldn't last 20 years if cared for. Just cleanup the heat exchanger well in the off season. I cap the chimney and place a desiccant in the firebox. During the summer, the chimney can draw warm humid air into the furnace and condense causing corrosion. Capping things and using a desiccant will prevent this.
 
I'm deffently buying either a caddy or a tundra does the heat bother the A coil in in the lp furnace? With the Englander they said it does but in was thinking maybe the air is not as hot with one of theses units
 
Any wood furnace has the potential to produce a lot of heat in the ducting, especially during an outage. I would tie into the ductwork just down from the coil and install a backdraft damper, this way nothing can back feed into the system.
 
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I wouldn't go as far to say leaps and bounds ahead of others. From an efficiency standpoint, users from the Kuuma, Caddy, Tundra, etc. all report flue temps within the same range and clean burns. Whether a unit has 1 gram of smoke per hour or 7, there's a huge improvement over a standard wood furnace producing 30 grams or more per hour. The new furnaces are showing longer burns and a more consistent output, reducing harsh temperature swings.

There's no reason a Caddy wouldn't last 20 years if cared for. Just cleanup the heat exchanger well in the off season. I cap the chimney and place a desiccant in the firebox. During the summer, the chimney can draw warm humid air into the furnace and condense causing corrosion. Capping things and using a desiccant will prevent this.

You go on the roof and cap the chimney? What do you use as a desiccant? That is a good idea.
 
I use a 6 mil plastic at the top, and I go to Wally World and buy a bag of silica gel cat litter. I cut a gallon jug in half and put a couple cups of the silica gel in it, and seal all openings of the furnace.

I saw the furnace drip water one time, and that was enough for me to cap and apply a desiccant. You could use damp x but it's highly corrosive if it spills. This way your guaranteed that everything stays dry in the furnace. I've seen many posts where people have seen the same with their stoves condensing water from downdrafts.
 
Do some research on the Kuuma Vapor-Fire. 25 yr firebox warranty, fewer emissions, and proven efficiency numbers with the actual tests posted right on the website. It's nearly impossible to burn wood any safer or easier!!

Yeah, but you don't have a glass door, right?
 
Hey laynes what is the optimum lengths it says 22 max what do you cut
 
Yeah, but you don't have a glass door, right?

No we chose improved efficiency instead. We do offer them on our sauna stoves where having the best possible efficiency isn't in quite as much demand.
 
16" to 18", no need to cut to maximum length.
 
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