Avalon wood stove burns too hot

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Doug1444

New Member
Mar 12, 2014
7
Iowa
I have a new Avalon wood burner from Travis industries. I've burned their Lopi for years and thought I'd give the cast iron model a try.

The Avalon works great during the day if I don't put in too much wood but it won't slow burn. For overnight, I load the firebox and close the damper and air supply but I'm still getting lots of air to support combustion so the fire burns way too hot.

Any thoughts?
 
I'm guessing its an Avalon Arbor? Enamel finish?
 
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I have a new Avalon wood burner from Travis industries. I've burned their Lopi for years and thought I'd give the cast iron model a try.

The Avalon works great during the day if I don't put in too much wood but it won't slow burn. For overnight, I load the firebox and close the damper and air supply but I'm still getting lots of air to support combustion so the fire burns way too hot.

Any thoughts?
Could be an incorrect thermometer placement. Where are you putting it?
 
The more fuel I put in the firebox the hotter it burns, even when the air control valve and exhaust damper are both shut. I believe it may be a gasket problem but I'm not sure. I cannot get an overnight burn because when I load up for the night the burn get intense, the fuel burns up and 6 hours later the stove is stone cold.
 
Could be an incorrect thermometer placement. Where are you putting it?
The thermometer is about 12" above stovepipe collar; but that's not really the issue. It's the air infiltration and inability to control the intensity of the fire that leads to the runaway burn.
 
The thermometer is about 12" above stovepipe collar; but that's not really the issue. It's the air infiltration and inability to control the intensity of the fire that leads to the runaway burn.
I mention the thermometer placement because I used to think I had run away fires on my Travis stove. However, in the end I was placing the thermometer incorrectly, getting readings that were higher than the stove really was at. How hot are your temps?
 
I mention the thermometer placement because I used to think I had run away fires on my Travis stove. However, in the end I was placing the thermometer incorrectly, getting readings that were higher than the stove really was at. How hot are your temps?
I get temps of 500-600 degrees without fully loading the firebox. Of course that's really not excessive, but with this stove it's all or nothing. I don't believe I have a thermometer problem, or a placement issue; it's the inability to control the burn that has me vexed.
 
I have had 2 Lopi Leydens, its the same as a the arbor. I experienced much frustration with the stove, if you do a search on here you will find a lot of info.

My first Leyden was very sluggish and would back puff if the air was reduced. The second one was uncontrollable! With a full load it ran away bad! Was about 1200 on the top plate and the entire back was glowing!. There was nothing I could do, no control what so ever. Be careful
 
I'm guessing your other Lopi had burn tubes, unlike the rear afterburner of this model. Though you may have a gasket problem or an afterburner problem, could just be the nature of your flue setup and that stove, with its downdraft burn technology. How tall is your flue? A tall flue, especially in strong-drafting cold weather, is going to give you shorter burn times.

Although some people can get very long burns in a downdraft without excessive temps (especially with the Harman TL300, it seems), other owners of the Leyden/Arbor, the Oakwood, and older VC Everburn models have had ongoing problems that border on overfire... and the shorter burn times that go along with that.

Some have tried reducing the draft with a pipe damper, some have tried modifying the secondary air supply (a modification which might void the warranty), and some have traded in their stoves. I have tried putting some foil in the air supply, but then I find it more difficult to get the secondaries to kick in in the first place.


Have you taken flue temps, or temps on the rear of the stove where the AB is? (I don't know if that is possible on the Lopi, but it is on my Oakwood.) As long as temps in those places are not excessive, your problem would seem mostly limited to the shorter burns and lower efficiency you're getting. The inability to dial the stove down is not so bad in the bitter cold, but it's a real aggravation in the shoulder season.
 
Have you checked your door gasket?

Take a dollar bill, and on each edge of the door (top, left, right, bottom) close the door with the bill in the way. If you can pull the bill out, you need a new door gasket (or to adjust your door closing mechanism).

This is the most common problem with controlling the fire in any stove (new or old).

Not the only problem you could have, but where you should start.
 
I'm guessing your other Lopi had burn tubes, unlike the rear afterburner of this model. Though you may have a gasket problem or an afterburner problem, could just be the nature of your flue setup and that stove, with its downdraft burn technology. How tall is your flue? A tall flue, especially in strong-drafting cold weather, is going to give you shorter burn times.

Although some people can get very long burns in a downdraft without excessive temps (especially with the Harman TL300, it seems), other owners of the Leyden/Arbor, the Oakwood, and older VC Everburn models have had ongoing problems that border on overfire... and the shorter burn times that go along with that.

Some have tried reducing the draft with a pipe damper, some have tried modifying the secondary air supply (a modification which might void the warranty), and some have traded in their stoves. I have tried putting some foil in the air supply, but then I find it more difficult to get the secondaries to kick in in the first place.


Have you taken flue temps, or temps on the rear of the stove where the AB is? (I don't know if that is possible on the Lopi, but it is on my Oakwood.) As long as temps in those places are not excessive, your problem would seem mostly limited to the shorter burns and lower efficiency you're getting. The inability to dial the stove down is not so bad in the bitter cold, but it's a real aggravation in the shoulder season.

My flue is approx 30' stove to cap. Mfg recommends no more than 35' so I thought I was OK; maybe not. Never thought flue height could be an issue, thanks for the heads up. I'll try flue damper, maybe that's all it will take.

Thanks for taking time to reply.
 
Have you checked your door gasket?

Take a dollar bill, and on each edge of the door (top, left, right, bottom) close the door with the bill in the way. If you can pull the bill out, you need a new door gasket (or to adjust your door closing mechanism).

This is the most common problem with controlling the fire in any stove (new or old).

Not the only problem you could have, but where you should start.

Great idea! Thanks
 
I'm my experience, both stoves were in the same house and used on the same flues. 13' flue height. The only thing that changed was the stove. It was totally uncontrollable no matter what I did. I have ran into this in the field on occasion. I was starting to make an association to their enameled stoves, since all the ones I have seen do this were enamel up till now.
 
Get it running good with the bypass closed for a while. Turn out the lights and look down behind rear shield. I bet it glows down low on the sides. Mine did, as well as the flue collar.
 
I bet it glows down low on the sides. Mine did, as well as the flue collar.
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Now that is the definition of overfire in my book.
 
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