Quadra fire needs feeding every three hours!

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It sounds like he has good draft too. I would cut the primary air down as low as it will go until the flames start to get lazy.
 
Grisu said:
Since no one else has mentioned it yet, please be aware that your stove requires seasoned wood with a moisture content of less than 20%. If you had just bought it, it is most likely still green; only few firewood sellers have the time and space to properly season wood and that usually comes with a higher price tag. I would suggest buying the wood for the next two winters as soon as possible. Stack it in single rows with lots of son and wind exposure. I prefer to cover the top but opinions differ about that. That way you will have at least semi-seasoned wood next winter and properly seasoned firewood the winter after (unless it is a lot of oak which needs up to 3 years to season). Since you had run your stove and flue really hot you are probably fine in terms of creosote. However, if you start reducing the primary air now please keep an eye on your flue that it does not accumulate a lot of creosote.
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That's why I hear the steak sizzling in my firebox! I'm learning so much here. Thanks!
 
you should get yourself a moisture meter so you know if there is allot of sizzling for quite a while your wood probably isn't dry enough a little sizzle is ok. I know I will get crap for this but I never dry any wood other than hickory more than a year and it always tests 20% or less on a fresh split face I know lots of guys say oak takes 3 yrs but that is not my experience. Get a moisture meter and you will know for sure They are pretty cheap for how helpful they are.
 
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Stillson lives said:
I

i'm doing the reverse. I thought I had to crank it up to get the heat.
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And you will get more heat doing that..but you also will waste more up the flue.
 
I have a 4300 model with a similar house and mine burns all night. However, I am not able to hold 70 degrees most of the time.
 
I think I would be doing a thorough inspection after running it so hard.
 
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bholler said:
you should get yourself a moisture meter so you know if there is allot of sizzling for quite a while your wood probably isn't dry enough a little sizzle is ok. I know I will get crap for this but I never dry any wood other than hickory more than a year and it always tests 20% or less on a fresh split face I know lots of guys say oak takes 3 yrs but that is not my experience. Get a moisture meter and you will know for sure They are pretty cheap for how helpful they are.
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Yes definitely get a moisture meter. I picked this one up a couple weeks ago at Lowe's for $25.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_78059-56005...l=1&currentURL=?Ntt=moisture+meter&facetInfo=

Take splits off your stack and split them in half, then read the moisture on the freshly split face. Push the prongs firmly into the wood to get a good reading.

aba7a8ep.jpg
 
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bholler said:
you should get yourself a moisture meter so you know if there is allot of sizzling for quite a while your wood probably isn't dry enough a little sizzle is ok. I know I will get crap for this but I never dry any wood other than hickory more than a year and it always tests 20% or less on a fresh split face I know lots of guys say oak takes 3 yrs but that is not my experience. Get a moisture meter and you will know for sure They are pretty cheap for how helpful they are.
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Ok will do! Thanks!
 
Stillson lives said:
I

i'm doing the reverse. I thought I had to crank it up to get the heat.
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More air will cool the fire and prevent strong secondary combustion in a modern EPA stove. Closing down the air forces a the draft to pull more strongly on the secondary air through the secondary ports in the tubes. That reburns the gases and raises the stove temp. If you have a thermometer on the stove top and pipe you will see the stove top temps go up and the pipe temp go down. That is more efficient burning and heating.
 
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begreen said:
More air will cool the fire and prevent strong secondary combustion in a modern EPA stove. Closing down the air forces a the draft to pull more strongly on the secondary air through the secondary ports in the tubes. That reburns the gases and raises the stove temp. If you have a thermometer on the stove top and pipe you will see the stove top temps go up and the pipe temp go down. That is more efficient burning and heating.
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I've learned so much from all of you nice people. Thanks so much. It's truly fascinating.
 
begreen said:
More air will cool the fire and prevent strong secondary combustion in a modern EPA stove. Closing down the air forces a the draft to pull more strongly on the secondary air through the secondary ports in the tubes. That reburns the gases and raises the stove temp. If you have a thermometer on the stove top and pipe you will see the stove top temps go up and the pipe temp go down. That is more efficient burning and heating.
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That's all very true and the correct way to burn but you can get the stove hotter with more air none the less.
 
With our stove after a point the stove flue gets hotter and the stove tops out at about 500-550F. Cut back the air and the stove top heads north of 650F pretty quickly and the flue temps come right down. Not the same in a cat stove though. Of course I've never run the stove for hours like this so maybe eventually the body temp will creep up.
 
Stillson lives said:
I hope I didn't hurt anything, it's only 3 years old
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There was a thread not too long ago about someone ruining a liner by running too hot. Three years of hard running is plenty of time to cause damage.
 
Is your flue thermometer a probe thermometer or a magnetic surface mount thermometer?
 
bholler said:
you should get yourself a moisture meter so you know if there is allot of sizzling for quite a while your wood probably isn't dry enough a little sizzle is ok. I know I will get crap for this but I never dry any wood other than hickory more than a year and it always tests 20% or less on a fresh split face I know lots of guys say oak takes 3 yrs but that is not my experience. Get a moisture meter and you will know for sure They are pretty cheap for how helpful they are.
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I agree with getting a moisture meter. But remember on drying time, not everyone has your situation. It all depends on relative humidity, temperature, wind speeds, how the wood is stacked and covered (or not), size of the splits, etc. Don't assume that because you can dry it in a year or so that other can, as well.
 
Been running a Quad 3100 step top for about 5 years in the basement of a 3000SF raised ranch. Very high quality little stove that seems to love being run hard. The forced fan furnance starts to kick in to help when the outside temps drop below 25F or so.
 

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Good news, glad I asked. If your temps had been surface readings I would be much more concerned about your flue piping. As it is I would try reducing the primary air further and try the fan trick. It really works.
 
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stephiedoll said:
Been running a Quad 3100 step top for about 5 years in the basement of a 3000SF raised ranch. Very high quality little stove that seems to love being run hard. The forced fan furnance starts to kick in to help when the outside temps drop below 25F or so.
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I love my quad that's why I want to run it the best I can. Where do you keep your vents positioned?
begreen said:
Good news, glad I asked. If your temps had been surface readings I would be much more concerned about your flue piping. As it is I would try reducing the primary air further and try that fan trick. It really works.
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i most certainly will! I really appreciate the help!
 
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