WOODBOSS 028?

1970roadrunner said:

I agree. 058 3/8 chain has been used professionally for years. 058 is standard equipment on larger husky pro saws (at least where I live anyway).
I think there is some confusion. Stihl uses "green" and "yellow" to identify casual use and professional chain and bars. Green "safety" chain means chain that has had some form of "anti kickback" built into the design, whereas the yellow or "pro" chain has traditional cutters with no anti-kickback features. The yellow stuff will always cut better.
If you have a .050 gauge bar, simply replace it with .050 yellow "pro" chain and you will get the same results. No need to upgrade to the .063 bar unless you want to.

Click to expand...

I don't disagree......but if you go buy XYZ brand (homelite, ryobi, etc) with 50 gauge chain, it will be a lower profile (smaller than 3/8) and be loaded with anti-kickback features. I have never found a 3/8" 63 gauge chain with all the anti-kickback junk.

Some people like that stuff, but for me, it just slows me down. I want chain that will throw chips big enough to use for bedding in a gerbil cage. No matter how sharp you get those anti-kickback chains, they won't do that.

Rickb said:

So got that 028 from my buddy at work.... Its pretty rough. It has no compression at all. Will rip it apart this weekend and see what is going on with it. It may not be worth fixing this, we will see...

Click to expand...

Nothing? Hmmmmm.

Its hard to beat free. Unless it needs a lot of other stuff, you can probably come out ahead.

Post pics along the way and we will help get you sorted.

Looks like you have a good project saw there!

You dont need to replace the piston if the only issue is buildup. That will clean of without too much issue. In your last pic the top groove does look a bit funky, maybe its just the photo. I havent honed a cylinder on these saws, since its easy to go through the nikasil coating. If its smooth inside without any gouges, I would just buff it with some wet/dry sandpaper by hand and call it good.

Get a meteor piston, caber rings (a number of sources should have these), and dont forget a new piston pin bearing. New fuel and impulse line are really good ideas, check your tank vent and it wouldnt hurt to check the oil line. While you are pulling it apart and cleaning, pull the other side and check your sprocket. See if that is in good shape or needs some love.

Also good to check your AV mounts, as the fronts can get pretty gummy over the years.

You are a 44mm piston. The really early 028wb's were 42, and the supers were 46. Looks like yours has a chainbrake, which puts it later in the production run. If you need a bar/chain, I think that Baileys has a closeout combo on a Carlton chain/timberchamp laminated bar for relatively cheap.

I have run 16" through 18" for my 028. My 026 and 028 both run .325 chains, and I have 16", 17", and 18" bars. The 17" was a Baileys deal thing, bar and chain were both less than ten bucks, so I bit.

So the bigger question is going to be if you want to be able to swap bars/chains with a bigger saw (assuming you stick with Stihl). If for instance you were to get an 036, that will probably use a .375 pitch chain, and a .050 gauge bar. The 028 came with a .063 gauge bar, but could be either .325 or .375 pitch.

Lots of guys like to keep the pitch the same so they can have one filing setup or one wheel for the grinder. I just started down the .325 path, so Im going to stick with it.

You should check to see what you have for a sprocket on the saw now. You might need to change that depending on what choice you make. Any markings on the sprocket thats on there now?

My advice would be to buy a 16" bar, .325 pitch, .063 gauge for it. Keeps it light for smaller stuff, the smaller pitch wont bog it down if you get into hard woods, and that way you arent trying to make a decision based on what a future saw might be.

Hi Rickb
It looks like a piece of the piston is broke above the rings ?
You don't need to hone the cylinder,just wetsand off any transfer if there is any.Then take a 3/8 eybolt and a red scotch bright pad.Thread the pad through the eyebolt and chuck it in a drill and polish the inside of the cylinder.
If it was me i would think about doing the seals at the same time,then you can flush the case real good,in case there is a piece of the piston missing.
Watch the carb cleaner it may take the powder coat off the inside of the crankcase.
You should end up with a great saw.
A guy i know gave me an 026 today,he likes huskys and it needs some work.But free is always nice.
Thomas

.325 pitch .063 gauge 74 drive links

Rickb said:

Ok so new parts are here!

Quick question tho. Is this the correct orientation for the ring or do I need to flip it over.

Click to expand...

Thats the right way for the ring.

Also make sure that the arrow goes towards the exhaust. I use a light coating of 2-stroke oil (not mixed with gas) on everything when putting it back together, and I would rinse the case out with some mix before putting it all back together. Adds some lube and helps rinse out anything that might have fallen in there.

First thing to check is the ground wire, they like to rub holes in the insulation and ground themselves out. Easy way to check is to just disconnect the kill wire at the coil and see if you get spark then. Re-set the gap from coil to flywheel with a business card just to be sure its correct. New plug?

Can you pull the wire off the fitting (I think its a spade fitting?) and check it again?

I just went through this same problem with my 028 WB. Check out this link.
http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/stihl/028-ignition-problem/

Well, thats a bummer. You can try and scrounge one of the "universal" stihl coils. They were put on 029s and the like, and they tend to be cheaper alternatives than the dedicated 028 coils. I think the number is 000 400 1300.

Make sure your flywheel is keyed for the bosch ignition not the SEM ignition in order to use the universal coil.