Anyone Have A KING Model # 5502M? - I'm Having Issues

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Bmann said:
another day of toying with settings trying to figure this thing out, I've adjusted the C2 &C3 (feed rate) , the C4 & C5 (draft fan) , but then there are C6 through C20? Does anybody know what they control?
Click to expand...

Just as a FYI it is frowned upon by the manufacture to make adjustments to the c codes. They also do not give this information out anymore for liability reasons. All that being said for my 5500m ;

C1 factory restart
C2 Low Feed
C3 High feed
C4 Low Speed Draft fan
C5 High speed Draft Fan
C6 Auger on =0 Auger off =1
C7 Temp Ramp up time? Default =120sec
C8 Start up time out Default = 30mins
C9 Over temp Shut down Default = 445*
C10 Over temp cut back Default = 430*
C11?
C12 Room fan start up temp Default= 110*
C13?
C14?
C15?
C16?
C17 Calculate ambiant air temp default = 0
C18 Room Fan Full on Default 0 (normal operation) 1= full on
C19?
C20?
C21?
 
Sorry I do not know what they do . I returned my king to tractor supply and purchased a heatilator cab50 . Wow what a difference in two stoves. Almost twice the cost but so far so good.Very simple stove and WOW does it throw some heat !! Good luck !!
 
how to you access the C settings, I have just installed a new 5502m and am having problems with the draft fan speed going up and down continuously.I am running Hr-3,draft fan on 5 but flame goes high and low every 2-3 seconds.I have tried to run on several heat range and draft fan settings but cannot get consistent burn.Window has been so ashed I have cleaned 3 times since installing 2 days ago.Draft fan also vibrates pretty bad when it gets to the high end of the speed cycle.
 
when I called on the same problem of inconstant flame the told me to turn up the feed rate I got it set to 2.25 and that helped a lot and I run the fan in manual mode mostly on draft 1 with the fan on 125. to get the that you have to hold aux. and draft down arrow at the same time should come up 100 arrow up to 125. I had to cut the gasket on the glass to get the air wash to work at all if you look at the inside of door there is a slot in the metal you can cut the gasket that long. take the glass right out us wire cutters helps but still gets full of ash around the edges and top.
 
I forgot to change the feed rate hold the aux. down and the hr button down at the same time 1.75 came up as the factory arrow up to 2.25. hope this helps
 
I have a 5502m and have similar fluctuation in flame.No matter what setting it seems to do the same.I burn walmart pellets.Looking for input
 
We have a 5502 as well. We purchased it late Oct and have run 2.5 tons of pellets though it already. Runs 24/7 and I use the auto controls as they seem to work as well as anything. The draft fan is supposed to cycle, at least according to US Stove tech support. As an engineer, I assumed there was a problem with this as the fan was turning on and off every few seconds. I thought the unit would speed control the draft fan, not so, it cycles as that is an easier and cheaper circuit to build. One could argue that the fan will wear out faster by being turned on and off every few seconds, but so far no issue. Keep the stove clean and watch how much sawdust gets into the auger. All in all, it's not as good as a vermont casting woodstove, however I have no complaints. That said, if you are not willing to learn about and work on the stove from time to time, it's not for you.
 
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Have Altered C2to C4 ,Moved All Up Although Ash SeemsTo Be HeavIer And Flying A Bit More But Heat Is Good I Tried Automatic With No Luck Fire Was All But Out.
 
Dont want to threadjack here, but I wish I did more research prior to buying my 5502. Ive had it a month and its worked inconsistently. I had it running for many hrs straight for maybe 3 days, but the last 2 times Ive tried to use it, It takes a long time to start, and when it does, I get maybe 10 seconds before it shuts down with an ERR 2. The auger is turning, I tried 2 different brands of pellets, Im running a pellet vent kit, which is 3 inches through the wall to a 5 foot stack directly outside, so no crazy bends, just 1 90 degree after about 1 foot, then straight up about 5 feet. i am NOT running a fresh air vent, (should I)? I have not messed with the settings either, but I noticed that the rope gasket on the right side looked burned through, so I put a small dab of automotive RTV to see if that was causing the problem. Now I read above about air wash? where exactly am I looking to see if mine is correct? Im not too happy with this lump so far.
 
I would put the unit into service mode and then run the auger to see how many pellets you are feeding. Sounds like it is not feeding enough pellets. In the hopper right at the pellets opening there is an adjustable gate. It has a wing nut on it and you can slide it up and down. The unit shipped with it at it's most closed off position. First remove this gate and using the service mode with the stove off, make sure the auger is not jammed or so filled with sawdust it will not pick up pellets. Reinstall the gate, but open it up a bit, say open it up 1/4 inch from the shipped position.Pour in pellets and again using service mode, observe the pellet feed. Run it 10 minutes or so because if it was jammed with sawdust, it will take a bit to clear. The auger and how clean it is(sawdust) are very picky on this stove. Don't forget the auger will not run in service mode if the hopper lid is up as the safety switch is open. Push down on the switch while working on it.
 
Thanks for the suggestion, I will definitely try what you suggested. I tried the gate in a few positions, but if its jammed with saw dust, it wont matter. I did clean out all the pellets and sat there with my finger on the microswitch on the hopper watching the auger turn until it pulled all of the pellets, it took a while. I then vacuumed the auger area as well and installed a different brand of pellet, same deal. Maybe I didnt clean the auger good enough? It spins very slowly, correct?
 
Timmycharger said:
Dont want to threadjack here, but I wish I did more research prior to buying my 5502. Ive had it a month and its worked inconsistently. I had it running for many hrs straight for maybe 3 days, but the last 2 times Ive tried to use it, It takes a long time to start, and when it does, I get maybe 10 seconds before it shuts down with an ERR 2. The auger is turning, I tried 2 different brands of pellets, Im running a pellet vent kit, which is 3 inches through the wall to a 5 foot stack directly outside, so no crazy bends, just 1 90 degree after about 1 foot, then straight up about 5 feet. i am NOT running a fresh air vent, (should I)? I have not messed with the settings either, but I noticed that the rope gasket on the right side looked burned through, so I put a small dab of automotive RTV to see if that was causing the problem. Now I read above about air wash? where exactly am I looking to see if mine is correct? Im not too happy with this lump so far.
Click to expand...


As per the air wash;
IMG_4919.JPG IMG_4920.JPG IMG_4921.JPG IMG_4922.JPG
 
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I cut the inside gasket so that my airwash will work properly for the glass to stay clean....I took the small plate off at the bottom of the door (Has 2 screws in it), cut the gasket that was covering the airwash, and put the plate back on. Seems to be helping somewhat...is there another gasket that needs to be cut? This again is for the 5502M. Thanks!!
 
No countyguy, thats it. In theory the air is drawn in through the slit and vertical up the glass, then out through the exhaust.
 
hello,new to the forum.
I have the 5502m stove also,new 2weeks ago.I have all settings on auto and running on 1 heat range.Plenty of heat,and no error codes.One thing I have noticed is when I push the off button,the stove shuts down ok,cools then fan shuts down.But then new pellets are added to the burn pot right at the very end of the shut down cycle.So if I go to clean out the burn pot there is a layer of new pellets in the bottom added at the last minute?? Is this normal? If I start up again,will there be to many pellets in the burn pot? Something isn't right here.everything else seems to be fine as far as burning etc.No error codes.Any help will be appreciated.Thankyou.
 
Mine does that too. What I do is flip up the hopper lid and then hit the off switch. With the lid up, the auger is off.

Lordgalla said:
hello,new to the forum.
I have the 5502m stove also,new 2weeks ago.I have all settings on auto and running on 1 heat range.Plenty of heat,and no error codes.One thing I have noticed is when I push the off button,the stove shuts down ok,cools then fan shuts down.But then new pellets are added to the burn pot right at the very end of the shut down cycle.So if I go to clean out the burn pot there is a layer of new pellets in the bottom added at the last minute?? Is this normal? If I start up again,will there be to many pellets in the burn pot? Something isn't right here.everything else seems to be fine as far as burning etc.No error codes.Any help will be appreciated.Thankyou.
Click to expand...
 
The feeding of pellets at the end of shut off is normal. I will need to look at the airwash gasket in mine. As far as running goes though, I am very happy with this stove. Besides the auger hairpin falling out, that I replaced with a cotter key, it burns great.
 
Johnny_Fiv3 said:
The feeding of pellets at the end of shut off is normal. I will need to look at the airwash gasket in mine. As far as running goes though, I am very happy with this stove. Besides the auger hairpin falling out, that I replaced with a cotter key, it burns great.
Click to expand...

ok,but when you start it up again,and it adds more pellets on the startup,won't there be to many in the burn pot at start up? If this is ok,then I'll feel better about it.Then there's the thing about cleaning out the burn pot daily.Other than these things here the stove is working great on all automatic settings,and I run it on heat range 1 for now,plenty of heat.
 
Lordgalla - If you turn the stove on and set it to HR-5, then yes the pot will get too full. There are 2 options (both are simple): 1. Turn the stove on HR-1 and once lit, then crank up to desired setting. 2. Turn stove on to desired setting right off the bat and if the pot starts to get full, simply open the hopper lid or use the auger delay button (60 sec delay) until the fire starts. I typically use option 2 as it's easiest. This time of year the stove is off during the day while the wife and I are gone. It's typically chilly in the house when we get home, so I start out right at HR-5 to knock the chill and dampness out. I let the pot fill about halfway then open the hopper until I see fire.

Also, want to not have to clean the damned pot everyday? Take out your burnpot and put 2 more rows of holes in it on the bottom. See here for example: http://www.stove-parts-unlimited.com/Aftermarket-US-Stove-Pellet-Burnpot-p/pp2011.htm
That is an aftermarket burnpot for our stoves. I was looking for spare parts the other day and saw that. Notice it has holes all over the bottom? First thing I did was take my pot out to the shop, slap it in the vise, drew some reference lines, and added 2 more rows of holes. The pot never gets crapped up now. I scrape it once a week just because I'm already in the stove vacuuming, it could go for much longer.

skibladerj - Thanks for the pics. Mine was blocked by the gasket as well. Cut the gasket to clear the air path and wow, what a difference.
 
Johnny_Fiv3 said:
Lordgalla - If you turn the stove on and set it to HR-5, then yes the pot will get too full. There are 2 options (both are simple): 1. Turn the stove on HR-1 and once lit, then crank up to desired setting. 2. Turn stove on to desired setting right off the bat and if the pot starts to get full, simply open the hopper lid or use the auger delay button (60 sec delay) until the fire starts. I typically use option 2 as it's easiest. This time of year the stove is off during the day while the wife and I are gone. It's typically chilly in the house when we get home, so I start out right at HR-5 to knock the chill and dampness out. I let the pot fill about halfway then open the hopper until I see fire.

Also, want to not have to clean the damned pot everyday? Take out your burnpot and put 2 more rows of holes in it on the bottom. See here for example: http://www.stove-parts-unlimited.com/Aftermarket-US-Stove-Pellet-Burnpot-p/pp2011.htm
That is an aftermarket burnpot for our stoves. I was looking for spare parts the other day and saw that. Notice it has holes all over the bottom? First thing I did was take my pot out to the shop, slap it in the vise, drew some reference lines, and added 2 more rows of holes. The pot never gets crapped up now. I scrape it once a week just because I'm already in the stove vacuuming, it could go for much longer.

skibladerj - Thanks for the pics. Mine was blocked by the gasket as well. Cut the gasket to clear the air path and wow, what a difference.
Click to expand...


On that door gasket,mine is not cut at the bottom of the window inside ,does cutting this help with the inside of the window from getting black? and it won't cause a error or leak in the door? My glass gets black inside the door,outside clean.Probably cause I run it on heat range 1 all the time so far this year,not cold enough around here yet.

Thankyou,Johnny_ Fiv3 for all the info.Really helps a lot.
 
Modding the pot like i said really cuts down on the crappy HR-1 performance. It will surprise you.

For the air wash gasket, you're only cutting the gasket on the back of the door. No need to remove the glass or anything, just the 2 screws to get the plate off. I used a utility knife to cut out the gasket material. When you put the screws back in, make sure there is a gap between the bracket and the glass. When I put mine back in, the flexed a bit once the screws were tight and didn't leave a gap. All I did was use a couple small pieces of the gasket I cut out as "shims" then tightened the screws. Worked great.
 
Johnny_Fiv3 said:
Modding the pot like i said really cuts down on the crappy HR-1 performance. It will surprise you.

For the air wash gasket, you're only cutting the gasket on the back of the door. No need to remove the glass or anything, just the 2 screws to get the plate off. I used a utility knife to cut out the gasket material. When you put the screws back in, make sure there is a gap between the bracket and the glass. When I put mine back in, the flexed a bit once the screws were tight and didn't leave a gap. All I did was use a couple small pieces of the gasket I cut out as "shims" then tightened the screws. Worked great.
Click to expand...

ok,but does it keep the inside of the glass form getting black.Inside the door?
 
Nothing will do that. Soot and ash will eventually cloud up the glass. It does make it stay cleaner longer. It will eventually get black, the airwash just makes it take longer.
 
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Johnny_Fiv3 said:
Nothing will do that. Soot and ash will eventually cloud up the glass. It does make it stay cleaner longer. It will eventually get black, the airwash just makes it take longer.
Click to expand...

ok,I cut the gasket for the air wash,and it's 100% better.thankyou for all the help on this stuff.

Now the only thing I don't like is that it adds pellets when you shut it off,after all fans shut down,pellets drop in.Then when you start it up it adds more,filling the burn pot almost to the top.Even with it set on heat range 1.Then you have this roaring fire when it first starts up.

Is this a design flaw in the circuit?

Seems weird to me,that it would add pellets at the end,and at startup.Is opening the lid before shutdown the only way to prevent this?

I tried asking the factory,and no one responds at all to emails I guess.Not even to the question about the use of a external t-stat.But I guess adding all these extra pellets at shutdown and startup with a T-stat,could be a real problem.
 
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