new regency f2400 operation

steph · Mar 26, 2014

Grisu said:
Agree, picture 2 looks great and I like that it took more time to get the stove up to temp again. At 600 F stovetop that seems like a perfect burn. For the first picture, try not to shut down the air that much. If you needed to because the temp was already so high, start dampering it down a bit earlier but just by a bit. When closing down the air, watching the fire is more important than the stovetemp (which is important if you want to know when the stove has reached peak and settled in). I suspect with better seasoned wood you can close the air even more and get more heat out of your stove. I am sure you will enjoy the next winter.

If you want to maximize your wood load, put two or three pieces of short wood sideways (E-W) in the void left by the coals in the back of the firebox (wear welding gloves!). That gives you a level surface together with the pile of coals in the front, on which you can put the splits lengthwise (N-S).

thank you! all great aadvice Ill post on whether or not it improves!

steph · Mar 26, 2014

Ok, so I just went to the stove shop where we bought the stove. With this new regency, YOU DO NOT NEED FLAME.... these stoves are so airtight and because of the way the stove burns the gasses inside, sometimes it doesnt have flame. Normal operating temp is anywhere between 300 to 475. They told me above that is wasting fuel and potentially overfiring.
Just want to.let everyone know, this stove being brand new does not require a constant flame because it is airtight.

bens_igloo · Mar 26, 2014

steph said:
Ok, so I just went to the stove shop where we bought the stove. With this new regency, YOU DO NOT NEED FLAME.... these stoves are so airtight and because of the way the stove burns the gasses inside, sometimes it doesnt have flame. Normal operating temp is anywhere between 300 to 475. They told me above that is wasting fuel and potentially overfiring.
Just want to.let everyone know, this stove being brand new does not require a constant flame because it is airtight.

Steph, not sure where your dealer is getting his information but I have a hard time believing what he or she has told you. Smoldering fires, whether in this stove or any other creates lots of smoke and will get your chimney full of creosote in no time. If you try it, you'll see that the glass also gets dirty almost immediately - a good sign that the smoke is not being burnt by the secondary flames.

steph · Mar 26, 2014

this is a very reputable dealer. They have a regency they burn in store, and when I was there there was no flame in the stove, and clean glass. NO smoke in the stove. you can see the wood is just glowing. That is how airtight and efficient these stoves are. They have an 8 hour burn time which I was not getting trying to keep a flame going.

steph · Mar 26, 2014

you still need to start it like a normal fire, and ill still be closing it in steps, all good advise from you all. Yes my wood does need to be seasoned more, I still have to deal with that issue, but ill be using all your advise on trying the bio bricks etc in with the wood. But I just talked to someone else I know with a similar stove and they said theirs burns the same way. Sometimes there is no flame, but the temp still stays up around 450, and its not smoldering. Theres no smoke in the stove, and the glass is clean. Its just burning all the gasses in the stove.

Grisu · Mar 26, 2014

steph said:
Ok, so I just went to the stove shop where we bought the stove. With this new regency, YOU DO NOT NEED FLAME.... these stoves are so airtight and because of the way the stove burns the gasses inside, sometimes it doesnt have flame. Normal operating temp is anywhere between 300 to 475. They told me above that is wasting fuel and potentially overfiring.
Just want to.let everyone know, this stove being brand new does not require a constant flame because it is airtight.

I assume that is a misunderstanding. What the dealer probably meant is that you don't need a fire all the time to get heat. At some point (probably around 3 to 4 hours with your stove and a full load) the wood will have burned down to coals. That following coaling stage is still part of your burn cycle and will give you heat. Stovetop temps will be slowly dropping into the 350 to 400 F range when you can think about a reload. Nevertheless, you DO NOT want to close the air down too early after reloading when your wood has not been fully turned to coals yet. That will create smoke which will deposit as creosote in your chimney. You can easily check that by looking at your chimney during the burn. After the initial startup you should only see heat/vapor waves coming out of your chimney. If you see visible smoke, the wood does not have enough air for a complete combustion. Especially important with your not quite seasoned wood.

Regarding the temp of less then 475 F: That depends where they have the thermometer. For the stovetop, you want to get it over 500 F during the early burn cycle to ensure complete combustion. 600 F to 700 F at peak is normal and usually desired when you want to heat your home.

steph · Mar 26, 2014

Grisu said:
I assume that is a misunderstanding. What the dealer probably meant is that you don't need a fire all the time to get heat. At some point (probably around 3 to 4 hours with your stove and a full load) the wood will have burned down to coals. That following coaling stage is still part of your burn cycle and will give you heat. Stovetop temps will be slowly dropping into the 350 to 400 F range when you can think about a reload. Nevertheless, you DO NOT want to close the air down too early after reloading when your wood has not been fully turned to coals yet. That will create smoke which will deposit as creosote in your chimney. You can easily check that by looking at your chimney during the burn. After the initial startup you should only see heat/vapor waves coming out of your chimney. If you see visible smoke, the wood does not have enough air for a complete combustion. Especially important with your not quite seasoned wood.

Regarding the temp of less then 475 F: That depends where they have the thermometer. For the stovetop, you want to get it over 500 F during the early burn cycle to ensure complete combustion. 600 F to 700 F at peak is normal and usually desired when you want to heat your home.

yes, i do get it up to 6 or 700 to get it going, let it stay there for a few minutes. (probably 30 mins before I can start closing it from the time I add wood when the stove is down in 200 range) when I close it down some the flame slows, eventually when I close it almost all the way the flame stops and this is what it looks like. sorry cant really tell in the pic, but the wood is glowing like coals

firefighterjake · Mar 26, 2014

steph said:
Ok, so I just went to the stove shop where we bought the stove. With this new regency, YOU DO NOT NEED FLAME.... these stoves are so airtight and because of the way the stove burns the gasses inside, sometimes it doesnt have flame. Normal operating temp is anywhere between 300 to 475. They told me above that is wasting fuel and potentially overfiring.
Just want to.let everyone know, this stove being brand new does not require a constant flame because it is airtight.

This isn't quite right . . . EPA stoves are just the opposite of being air-tight.

While it is true that cat stoves often have little to no flames and can burn fine . . . usually with a secondary burner you will get some flames (typically in the top third of the fire box) with the secondary burn . . . until it reaches the coaling stage. It doesn't always have to have the roiling flames though . . . sometimes there will just be a burst of flame in the upper part of the fire box as the unburnt gases ignite (i.e. the secondary burn.)

begreen · Mar 26, 2014

steph said:
Ok, so I just went to the stove shop where we bought the stove. With this new regency, YOU DO NOT NEED FLAME.... these stoves are so airtight and because of the way the stove burns the gasses inside, sometimes it doesnt have flame. Normal operating temp is anywhere between 300 to 475. They told me above that is wasting fuel and potentially overfiring.
Just want to.let everyone know, this stove being brand new does not require a constant flame because it is airtight.

Your stove is not airtight. The primary air control does not close all the way and the secondary air is unregulated.This is intentional to prevent or at least reduce smoldering. It also helps keep the window clean. I would expect normal stove top temp with a full load of wood will be at least 500-600F for a few hours, then gradually declining over time. True that once the wood gases have burned off there will be little flame.

Grisu · Mar 26, 2014

steph said:
yes, i do get it up to 6 or 700 to get it going, let it stay there for a few minutes. (probably 30 mins before I can start closing it from the time I add wood when the stove is down in 200 range) when I close it down some the flame slows, eventually when I close it almost all the way the flame stops and this is what it looks like. sorry cant really tell in the pic, but the wood is glowing like coalsView attachment 130620

From the picture that looks like way too less air that early in the burn cycle. You don't have really coals yet and should see some nice flame going. Did you go outside and look for smoke from your chimney? Smoke should really be avoided: You are wasting fuel, bother you neighbors, and most importantly you create the conditions for a chimney fire due to some smoke condensing in your flue building up creosote. As BeGreen stated, the temps should stay above 500 F for quite a while before slowly dropping; all that happens without you adjusting the air anymore.

Everything I told I learned from the posters here who have used wood stoves for years or even have worked in the hearth industry for many years; building, selling, and installing those stoves. I doubt that any of them will disagree with the tips I gave you. For further proof look here:

http://www.novascotia.ca/energy/resources/EM/wood-heating/Burn-It-Hot-Brochure.pdf
http://jotul.com/us/home/pre-epa-airtight-stove-vs-non-catalytic-clean-buring
http://www.mastersweep.com/OPT.HTM
http://www.woodheat.org/proven-tips.html

I think they all agree that you don't want to turn down the air control until the fire is starved for air. Slow, smoldering fires without flame should be avoided.

lopiliberty · Mar 27, 2014

I would bet the stove your dealer told you shouldn't have any flame was the new regency hybrid. You don't need a lot of flame on the wood but you need the flame above the wood from the air tubes. You get most of the heat from the secondary burn. This is what it should look like maybe not quite that intense but my wood is bone dry. If I remember right stove top was holding at 700 degrees. Very little to no flame on the wood itself but a lot of secondary action with the air only open a hair. Once you get good seasoned wood the stove should perform better and you will get better burn time. Follow the advice given here about turning it down in stages and DRY wood and you will love that stove. Also I might have missed it sorry if I did but if you are getting the stove up to 700 with the air wide open for a while what are your flue temps? It would think with a 700 degree stove with the air wide open the flue would be pretty damn hot

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new regency f2400 operation

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