am i doing this wrong?

Also you may need to nibble the edge depending of size of log. Cut edges then center depending on , dryness,species ,log size, there is a member with an avarat photo showing this. IMHO all splitting tools need sharpened, same as new knives

Shows you how good the Fiskers actually are.

What you need to do with that monster is drill a hole (about 1/2") through the end of the handle. Then find a water resistant rope, thread one end trough the hole you just drilled and tie it off so it won't come loose. With the other end of the rope, about 30-50 feet long, tie it to your fishing boat. Don't worry about what the other fisherman will think about your new anchor; any of them that have used one will understand completely!

whats the deal with all the sideways pictures people are posting? I'm tired of rotating my screen

splitoak said:

So..i stopped by tractor supply yesterdat and bought the truper 16lb monster maul to see how it stacks up to the x27..well i was dissapointed.dont know if im using it wrong or what...jus raising it over my head and dropping it on to the round...does it need to be sharpened?..i figured it was ment to bludgeon..lol..it def is a "monster"...any words of wisdom would be appreciated...

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You're not doing it wrong. The Monster Maul is a 16lb hunk of s#!t.

Bring it back and get your money back!

That's some purty looking wood.

infinitymike said:

Bring it back and get your money back!

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Good idea,50 bucks will buy you the x27

splitoak said:

im gonna put the grinder on it to put a good edge on it

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That won't help

That maul really is no good. A maul doesn't need a razor sharp edge as it doesn't really cut wood...it basically crushes and acts as wedge.

I tried that maul out. The damn handle is wicked heavy and steel, and because of it you can't get a good swing out of it unless you are some monster strong man.

You would probably have 100% more success with a 8lb maul from big orange and a plastic handle as the handle weighs nothing and you get a great swing because of the balancing (seriously head heavy) and you can get way more momentum behind the swing.

Get rid of it imo.

My 8lbs Maul works fine.....my Huskee Splitter works better....found out it's easier to hold a beer while splitting using the Huskee, and a PITA with the Maul. 16lbs. is one heck of a workout.

Actually the maul is not that bad. I have had one for a number of years. I also have a Fiskars. On some rounds the maul will actually do better than the fiskars, but you have to have enough beans in your buns to make that weight work for you.

I would upgrade to the 32lbs maul.

http://www.physicsclassroom.com/calcpad/energy

There are two forms of mechanical energy - potential energy and kinetic energy.

Potential energy is the stored energy of position. In this set of problems, we will be most concerned with the stored energy due to the vertical position of an object within Earth's gravitational field. Such energy is known as the gravitational potential energy (PEgrav) and is calculated using the equation

PEgrav = m•g•h

where m is the mass of the object (with standard units of kilograms), g is the acceleration of gravity (9.8 m/s/s) and h is the height of the object (with standard units of meters) above some arbitraily defined zero level (such as the ground or the top of a lab table in a physics room).


Kinetic energy is defined as the energy possessed by an object due to its motion. An object must be moving to possess kinetic energy. The amount of kinetic energy (KE) possessed by a moving object is dependent upon mass and speed. The equation for kinetic energy is

KE = 0.5 • m • v2

where m is the mass of the object (with standard units of kilograms) and v is the speed of the object (with standard units of m/s).

The total mechanical energy possessed by an object is the sum of its kinetic and potential energies.



Because the force calculation uses velocity squared, you are better off with a lighter axe swung at a faster speed. Fast & quick > slow and heavy.

I used to have one of those "lickety splitter" things, complete piece of garbage IMO, too heavy to swing and too heavy to swing accurately.

pen said:

also, in the right, err, bottom, of your pic,,, the round with all the red paint on it from the maul will generally always be a sucker to split as it appears to be the stump / butt end of the log.

Take the chainsaw and take the "whiskers" off of it and flip it over, and try splitting it again. Sometimes if a round won't split one way, it just needs to get whacked on the other end to get it to cooperate.

If you still have trouble, try noodling it with the chainsaw and/or taking a wedge to it.

pen

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my theory is that the way the tree grows is the end that splits best. i can tell when there are limb ends still visible. when no limbs, if I hit and it just absorbs it or bounces off, its the other end.

infinitymike said:

Bring it back and get your money back, and save your back!

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Fixed it for ya.

Firewood Bandit said:

Fixed it for ya.

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We work well together!

Unlike that chunk of steel he bought!

I have had a monster maul for many years and split a lot of wood with it, and just got an x 27 this past January. I immediately fell in love with the fiskars. It is all I use anymore. Having said that I still carry my monster maul with me and swing it a few times just to see if I still can. In certain woods it will split just the same if not better than the fiskars, but for an average over all wood species it's the fiskars hands down. With the monster maul, even though it's heavy, it still requires speed. And wih speed you need accuracy. Keep practicing and building muscles and it will do good.

Having a fiskars x 27 has spoiled a lot of people.

infinitymike said:

Unlike that chunk of steel he bought!

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I swang one of those monster mauls, ONCE and that was enough.