As you're looking at the right side of the stove, to the left of the control board towards the middle of the stove is the red thermostat call for heat light - just below that light is the fuse holder that has the 7 amp fuse inside. Below is a pic of the fuse holder.
Quadra Fire Castile 2004 project/input
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As you're looking at the right side of the stove, to the left of the control board towards the middle of the stove is the red thermostat call for heat light - just below that light is the fuse holder that has the 7 amp fuse inside. Below is a pic of the fuse holder.
Have you ever seen that type of control box? Im starting to think I got the one and only stove that doesn't have a fuse?
ya this is baffling. can that box come apart to see if its inside ? Would I damage anything if I do so
The control box lights are separate from the thermostat call for heat light - do you see the call for heat light, that is mounted to the metal housing that the control box mounts to ? The fuse holder is below the red call for heat light. May be easier to see if you take the control box out - make sure the stove is unplugged. My Castile is an earlier version than yours, it has 8 vs 10 heat exchanger tubes. I had the same older style grey control box before I replaced it with the new clearer box, so I know the fuse is not in the box. Keep looking and you should find it.
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I'll have to look when I get home from work. Im hoping to fire it up later.
Can I inbox you If I have any ?
Here's a couple smartphone pics of the fuse and call for heat light - the right edge of the photos are the front edge of the control box. Private message me if any questions.
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CaptSpiff
Minister of Fire
Re your posted picture (20140407_060005.jpg) showing the backside of the T-Stat terminal block (yellow wires) and below that the backside of the 120v Power Connector: follow the BLACK wire from the back of the power connector to the Fuse Holder.
I just went out for lunch and puchased the tadpole gasket at dealer prices( i wont do that again )
This is killin me as I'm at work and I need to find this call light. I had that inteir stove apart to test and clean the motors and I didnt see it. I'll look harder
When I get home Im going to fire it up by putting a jumper on the thermostat connectors.
I'll need some short of clarification on it operating correctly.
So far I have $550 dollars in to this thing and I'm hoping I scored.
Now its time to test the most expensive part the control box.
I'll post the results tonight.
This is killin me as I'm at work and I need to find this call light. I had that inteir stove apart to test and clean the motors and I didnt see it. I'll look harder
When I get home Im going to fire it up by putting a jumper on the thermostat connectors.
I'll need some short of clarification on it operating correctly.
So far I have $550 dollars in to this thing and I'm hoping I scored.
Now its time to test the most expensive part the control box.
I'll post the results tonight.
Looking closer at your pic Burd, what looks like a rocker switch has "7 AMP" written next to it, so that has to be the reference to the fuse amperage. But I can't advise where the fuse might actually go. Does the back side of that switch have access to it when you have the control board out ?
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
Burd,
You need to talk to someone with a controller of the same vintage or who has a set of manuals covering that stove and all of the supported controllers quad has had more than a couple of controllers over the years, but I'll hazard a guess that the clip is some kind of a testing device to bring signals outside a control box or cabling system and/or a means to program a controller for different stoves. The current line of controllers is set using rotary switches for several different stoves in the Quadrafire line.
Before I'd even plug that unit in let alone fire it up I'd be damn certain that the wiring corresponded with the manual that came with the stove along with any technical bulletins dealing with that controller.
It isn't unknown for people to modify stoves on their own and such stoves can be very dangerous.
You need to talk to someone with a controller of the same vintage or who has a set of manuals covering that stove and all of the supported controllers quad has had more than a couple of controllers over the years, but I'll hazard a guess that the clip is some kind of a testing device to bring signals outside a control box or cabling system and/or a means to program a controller for different stoves. The current line of controllers is set using rotary switches for several different stoves in the Quadrafire line.
Before I'd even plug that unit in let alone fire it up I'd be damn certain that the wiring corresponded with the manual that came with the stove along with any technical bulletins dealing with that controller.
It isn't unknown for people to modify stoves on their own and such stoves can be very dangerous.
Mt Bob
Minister of Fire
dmknld may be right,the square device appears to be a low profile panel mount fuse holder,push the switch and center comes out,holding fuse.Smokey may be right,the red thing may be a simple jumper block to change programming,or an old style repeating fuse.Best guess,as pictures not the best.Also,the round thing may be your call light,minus the cover.Looking at the control box looks like stove has missed at least 2 updates,but not a problem if it runs.Bob
Thanks smokey I'll make sure it is running correctly before it goes in the house
I'm not sure it has access...I beleive its a breaker as I sorted out a wire to the exhaust
Well boys. I tried to fire it up.when I plug it in the exhaust fan came on. I then proceeded to put the jumpers on the thermostat connectors.I heard the control box click call light came on and then ignitor came on as it stunk to high heaven.unfortunately the auger was not turning I know the auger works because I tested it. Is there a safety switch for the auger that I am missing I do not see any wires leading to the hopper.thinking that was it I even close the door. Please note: the unit was set on high as the manual says and then I push the reset button and still no auger movement.thinking it was the vacuum I jumped the two yellow wires and still nothing.as for the red clip it definitely has to be some kind of communication port..
Am I doing something wrong on start up?
Has to be the older model as the air washes on the top of the glass and not the bottom.
Am I doing something wrong on start up?
Has to be the older model as the air washes on the top of the glass and not the bottom.
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Mt Bob
Minister of Fire
Found it,it is a carling circuit beaker made to fit in round hole.I suspect someone had issues with the stove to do that.
Mt Bob
Minister of Fire
Hello
Here are two Quad Contours I am rebuilding. The 1st one has a new clear control box that I installed to upgrade the stove. It resolves the CSS = Cold Start Syndrome I discovered by running the exhaust blower on high during the start cycle.
The 2nd pic shows the old Quad Contour I just picked up with the old gray control box and what looks like an Auto Fuse. I ordered a new wire harness (Includes new Fuse Holder) and I may upgrade the control box to bring this stove up to snuff!
See fuses in pics below.
Here are two Quad Contours I am rebuilding. The 1st one has a new clear control box that I installed to upgrade the stove. It resolves the CSS = Cold Start Syndrome I discovered by running the exhaust blower on high during the start cycle.
The 2nd pic shows the old Quad Contour I just picked up with the old gray control box and what looks like an Auto Fuse. I ordered a new wire harness (Includes new Fuse Holder) and I may upgrade the control box to bring this stove up to snuff!
See fuses in pics below.
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well I couldn't help myself I had to go out and find out what's going on with that stove I take the control board apart.as seen in the first picture I see a green light inside the box so I decided to take it apart.it said don't break seal or it would void the warranty what a joke.I found the fuse inside on the panel itself.pic#2At this point I had a controller in my hand and wondered why the auger wouldn't turn I pulled a vacuum line of the auger tube and suck on the line and sure enough the vacuum switch trips an auger moves...
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Burd,
Your jerry rigged fuse holder must be working or you wouldn't have power to your combustion fan or control board - so that's a good trouble shooting step to have behind you. Make sure the tube from the vacuum switch to the auger tube isn't plugged up with sawdust or cracked, usually nearer to the nipple at one end of it or the other, as that can disable the auger. I assume you put your new tadpole door seal in? Is the firepot gasket in OK shape? Any significant air leaks through the door or the pot gasket can frig up your vacuum as well and won't let the auger turn.
X2 on checking your #2 snap disc as well.
Your jerry rigged fuse holder must be working or you wouldn't have power to your combustion fan or control board - so that's a good trouble shooting step to have behind you. Make sure the tube from the vacuum switch to the auger tube isn't plugged up with sawdust or cracked, usually nearer to the nipple at one end of it or the other, as that can disable the auger. I assume you put your new tadpole door seal in? Is the firepot gasket in OK shape? Any significant air leaks through the door or the pot gasket can frig up your vacuum as well and won't let the auger turn.
X2 on checking your #2 snap disc as well.
now I really can't help myself I grabbed some pellets and add about 4 pounds in the hopper.I had to do the tube thing a few times at to activate vacuumswitch.I filled the auger and put a handful of pellets in the pot.I open that ash door to see if the igniter was still hot. Don't touch it it's hot..wala we had a ignition
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