Quadra Fire Castile 2004 project/input

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all gaskets replaced on Sunday. I remember reading a post about that vacuum.I cleared the line when I was cleaning it..the canister must have been stuck since it was sitting for 4 years. My need a new one..I'll keep testing it before the instal. yo you're a big help if I ever run into you I'll buy you a beer or send you a Christmas card
that is not a jerry rig fuse holder I figure it out it is a communication port to change the program.
DMKNLD said:
Burd,

Your jerry rigged fuse holder must be working or you wouldn't have power to your combustion fan or control board - so that's a good trouble shooting step to have behind you. Make sure the tube from the vacuum switch to the auger tube isn't plugged up with sawdust or cracked, usually nearer to the nipple at one end of it or the other, as that can disable the auger. I assume you put your new tadpole door seal in? Is the firepot gasket in OK shape? Any significant air leaks through the door or the pot gasket can frig up your vacuum as well and won't let the auger turn.

X2 on checking your #2 snap disc as well.
Click to expand...
 
Burd said:
well I couldn't help myself I had to go out and find out what's going on with that stove I take the control board apart.as seen in the first picture I see a green light inside the box so I decided to take it apart.it said don't break seal or it would void the warranty what a joke.I found the fuse inside on the panel itself.pic#2At this point I had a controller in my hand and wondered why the auger wouldn't turn I pulled a vacuum line of the auger tube and suck on the line and sure enough the vacuum switch trips an auger moves...
Click to expand...

Hello
I have a board fuse too, It is a mini slo-blo 800ma fuse, not the same as the larger AGC 7 - 7 amp stove fuse on the incoming AC line in the Fuse holder.
See pics below
Click to Enlarge
 

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Back at ya. brother. That's what this forum is all about. The carling circuit breaker - what looks like the rocker switch below your call for fire light - apparently is your jerry rigged fuse. It's working though, so that's good !

X2 on your assessment that your vacuum switch diaphragm is intermittently sticking - I don't know if those will loosen up or not with use or if you'll need a new one - it may make it through this burn season. If not, $46 on e-bay isn't too bad of a parts investment for a $500 beauty of a stove you got. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vacuum-swit...Stoves-SRV7000-531-Instructions-/121275243645

Welcome to the loyal Quad club!
 
Burd said:
all gaskets replaced on Sunday. I remember reading a post about that vacuum.I cleared the line when I was cleaning it..the canister must have been stuck since it was sitting for 4 years. My need a new one..I'll keep testing it before the instal. yo you're a big help if I ever run into you I'll buy you a beer or send you a Christmas card
that is not a jerry rig fuse holder I figure it out it is a communication port to change the program.
Click to expand...

That makes sense about the old comm port.
The new clear control boxes have a rotary switch in the same spot to change the program for the model stove you have. :)
 
Just got back from the garage to make sure the stove shut down.. ice cold and the fan was still running burn pot was empty. This can't be good for start up? Convection fan was off...
 
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Don2222 said:
Hello

Here are two Quad Contours I am rebuilding. The 1st one has a new clear control box that I installed to upgrade the stove. It resolves the CSS = Cold Start Syndrome I discovered by running the exhaust blower on high during the start cycle.

The 2nd pic shows the old Quad Contour I just picked up with the old gray control box and what looks like an Auto Fuse. I ordered a new wire harness (Includes new Fuse Holder) and I may upgrade the control box to bring this stove up to snuff!

See fuses in pics below.
Click to expand...
Don2222 I did the test run and ran the stove for about 30 min. I pulled the jumper off to shut it down. Went back out fan still running stove ice cold f pot was empty... Is this considered CSS. How is this fixed?
 
How much for the up dated board?
 
Don2222's post on the Cold Start Syndrome refers to when the stove starts up after a prolonged period of shut-down where the older style grey control box would fail to feed enough pellets in the initial pellet drop to get the fire box to the 200 F temp necessary to start the auger again at it's regular feed interval, causing a failed start up that caused the stove to shut down. The new clearer plastic control boxes are programmed to have the auger dump more pellets on the initial call for fire, and also temporarily increases the combustion fan speed to facilitate initial pellet combustion, thus avoiding failed start ups. The new boxes also have the option to increase the pellet feed rate by 10% as a programmable option.

Part of the CSS issues also had to be related, at least in part, to reduced combustion fan efficiency and / or high end EVL readings, among other factors that reduced the burn efficiency, as some folks still using their OEM grey control box relate never having any cold start problems. But OE control boxes lasting more than 8 - 10 yrs from the stove production date seem to be the exception rather than the rule. So until you get your stove hooked up to your dedicated vent system and have everything running up to speed, you won't know if you have a CSS issue with your control box or not.

New control boards are $$$ - I see Stove World has them for sale on-line for around $198 - typically they are closer to $300 or so new. I got lucky when my OE grey box bit the dust and my local Quad dealer sold me his demo stove control box for 1/2 the price of a new one.

So where are you at now, Burd? Is the only thing jumpered your t-stat, and otherwise everything else save your intermittent vac switch issue is working OK?
 
DMKNLD said:
Don2222's post on the Cold Start Syndrome refers to when the stove starts up after a prolonged period of shut-down where the older style grey control box would fail to feed enough pellets in the initial pellet drop to get the fire box to the 200 F temp necessary to start the auger again at it's regular feed interval, causing a failed start up that caused the stove to shut down. The new clearer plastic control boxes are programmed to have the auger dump more pellets on the initial call for fire, and also temporarily increases the combustion fan speed to facilitate initial pellet combustion, thus avoiding failed start ups. The new boxes also have the option to increase the pellet feed rate by 10% as a programmable option.

Part of the CSS issues also had to be related, at least in part, to reduced combustion fan efficiency and / or high end EVL readings, among other factors that reduced the burn efficiency, as some folks still using their OEM grey control box relate never having any cold start problems. But OE control boxes lasting more than 8 - 10 yrs from the stove production date seem to be the exception rather than the rule. So until you get your stove hooked up to your dedicated vent system and have everything running up to speed, you won't know if you have a CSS issue with your control box or not.

New control boards are $$$ - I see Stove World has them for sale on-line for around $198 - typically they are closer to $300 or so new. I got lucky when my OE grey box bit the dust and my local Quad dealer sold me his demo stove control box for 1/2 the price of a new one.

So where are you at now, Burd? Is the only thing jumpered your t-stat, and otherwise everything else save your intermittent vac switch issue is working OK?
Click to expand...

My main concern right now is that the combustion fan isn't shutting down. Even when I plug in the stove the fan starts and won't shut down( Its not calling for heat at this point)I thought I read some we're that this is done for safty reasons before start up but should shut down with in a few minutes. Last night I went out to make sure it was shut down completely after the test fire and 40minutes after shut down it was still running.
Where I'm at:
At this point I think I need to run the stove some more to help break in parts that have beed sitting in a damp garage for four years.
Im thinking that the control box most likly will have to be replaced to control the combustion fan? It seems to be running at one constant speed? (YOUR THOUGHT)does the control box contorl this?
?
Once the stove is is fired up and the thermostate is satisfied the stove should shut down completly. Once the thermo calls for heat and on start up the auger refills the burn pot completely? Or is there still remaining unburnt pellet in the pot (coal)and the auger goes back to its cycle.???
High /med /low switch seems to be working. once the covection fan started I started playing with the switch. fan speed went down and the auger rotation.(I will test this again today)
Im thinking that the vac switch isnt working. I open the door to see if the auger would stop and it didn't. the flame in the burnpot did.
At this point this deal is getting expensive but well worth the work.
Your thoughts
 
CaptSpiff said:
You sub'd in a 25amp car fuse ? !!!
Click to expand...

That is how the stove was when I got it? ? ? I am replacing the whole thing with a new wire harness. :)
 
Burd said:
Don2222 I did the test run and ran the stove for about 30 min. I pulled the jumper off to shut it down. Went back out fan still running stove ice cold f pot was empty... Is this considered CSS. How is this fixed?
Click to expand...


You could have a stuck low limit switch.

ETA: That is a bad TC or control board in the case of a Quad.
 
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Well I came home and started the stove augger filed the pot with two pushes of reset and the stove fired right up.
It a bummer that the fan won't shut down. Can the board be fixed... I now how to soider?
How long does it take after shut down for the fan to turn off?

I really want to thank you guys for all the input
 
BrotherBart said:
Capacitor.
Click to expand...
Does anyone know witch one it is.
Brother Bart it's been awhile. I went through 4 1/4 cords this year.rough winter for everyone
 
Normal shut down(combustion fan) can be 14 to 60 minutes,depending on stove model and conditions.First thing to do is check tc-see if the indicator lights work properly during startup.Try unplugging tc when stove is cold.If you have worked on pc boards before,replace all electrolytic capacitors and triacs.If you have not I do not reccomend.Also when parts are upgraded(your board) they generally perform much better,as problems have been addressed.
 
bob bare said:
Normal shut down(combustion fan) can be 14 to 60 minutes,depending on stove model and conditions.First thing to do is check tc-see if the indicator lights work properly during startup.Try unplugging tc when stove is cold.If you have worked on pc boards before,replace all electrolytic capacitors and triacs.If you have not I do not reccomend.Also when parts are upgraded(your board) they generally perform much better,as problems have been addressed.
Click to expand...
I figured as much.
The stove was in shutdown for 90min I went and disconnected TC nothing happened...
 
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